Hi Tom,
There is a headlight up 'stop' on each door.
Is that adjusted properly?
It too determines how far up the door rises.
Regards,
Alan

There's a stop nut on the post that moves the bumper. The bumper hits against the door frame when it's open.


You can see where the bumper contacts the frame.

 

It takes a relatively tiny movement of the actuator to make the final spring-loaded hyper-extension that locks the mechanism. A single turn of the clevis at the end of the actuator arm makes a big difference.

 

Tom69.
I have a similar nagging problem with my right side switch. My indicator light comes on and stays on, even though both headlights are fully up.
Originally, when I bought the car, the right side switch was broken off at the plastic threaded stud that attaches it to the bracket. I replaced it with a new one, but the light still stays on. If I depress the new switch manually, the light will go off, so the circuit is functioning as it should. I've meant to go in and make an adjustment of some kind, but it's lower on my list.
One thought was to insert some kind of shim on the surface of the bracket to make contact slightly sooner with the switch button, but need to be careful here, so as not to add too much stress to the switch that it breaks again. Maybe a few layers of tape?
I'm suspecting my door needs an adjustment, since it appears slightly high to the fascia when it's closed - but I haven't investigated this further yet. I will go in and look at the adjustment that Alan indicated above, and see if that does the trick.

 

my headlights opened and closed good but, mine were rebuilt so I could get the proper adjustment. this helped a lot with the overall operation of the headlights.
maybe this will help. I used other peoples pictures as well as mine

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...or-ever-i.html

 

Steffan,

Your link is very helpful and I will keep it as a reference. It looks like I have all original components in my headlamp assemblies. At some point I will have to address rebuilding the assemblies.

Regards,
Tom

 

thank you. I had some of the exact issues you are having. I thought that dash light was supposed to be on. the assembles are not intimidating once you take them out.

 

Alan,

Here are photos of my right and left headlamp door adjustment screws. Note the difference between the two screw adjustment settings. The right headlamp has practically no adjustment. I noticed in your photo that your door adjustment screw has practically no adjustment with the bumper installed. I've ordered (Corvette Central) new adjustment screws but could not find any with bumpers included?

Also included photos of my headlamp door open and closed positions. They look pretty good to me and part of me is saying don't mess with it and live with the headlamp warning light illuminated or disconnect the switches.

Regards,
Tom

 

I would like to thank all of you for the valuable input I received in this thread addressing my issues. I have to take a break...my 70 year old back has once again signaled it's time for a time-out. Thanks to your input, I have a much better understanding of the lamp monitoring and headlamp assembly systems. Looking forward getting back to work on the C3.

Regards,
Tom

 

Hi Tom,
I understand about 70 year old backs!!!
I just got a new creeper that's making it easier for me to get under the car and move around. It's made almost as much difference as going to the Quick-Jack has.
I now realize that long ago when I first started almost all the $ went directly into the car but now it seems to be going into making it still be possible for me to work on the car!
Getting old is quite a bit of fun, but not entirely all fun.
Regards,
Alan

Looking at the good fit of the headlight doors makes me think there's a solution to the switch problem but the problem you're seeing could be made up of several mis-adjustments that have added up to the gap you're seeing.

 

I took Alan’s suggestion and played with the headlamp “UP” adjustment screws. The screws and nuts on both sides were badly rusted so I replaced them with new. Tried a variety of settings on the right side but none of the adjustments had an affect on improving the position of the headlamp warning switch.

I electrically disconnected the right switch, thinking it would deactivate the headlamp warning light. I thought both switches had to be in agreement for the warning light to work. Much to my surprise, the left switch still has an input to the light. I now get a proper momentary in transit warning light with headlamps moving from “closed to up”, but no warning light indication from "up to closed".

I think I'm going to leave things as they are until I have a more serious reason to get into the headlight assembly.

Btw, the new screws that I ordered did not come with the rubber bumpers.

Regards,
Tom

 

Hi Tom,
I'm really unsure about when rubber bumpers were used.
I don't think my car originally had them installed.
When the headlights are really operating well they really make a 'bang' when opening if the rubber bumper isn't there.
Again, I'm unsure what cars may or may not of had them originally?!?
Regards,
Alan

What happens when you turn this adjustor?

 

I don't think rubber bumpers were used in 69.I don't recall seeing them in the AIM either.

 

Alan,

Played with that door adjustment screw (ref service manual page 12-4). Although this adjustment does move the pivot link but not enough to affect the position of the headlamp warning switch. The purpose of this screw is to allow adjustment of the headlamp cover in the “down” position to a flush position with the body.

As originally suggested, the only adjustment option remaining is adjusting the actuator arm length. The present actuator arm extended length is comparable to the arm length on the opposite side. I find it hard to believe that a one or two screw length extension of the arm is going to move the headlamp warning switch about 30 degrees of arc to the correct contact closed position.

When troubleshooting I was told to always look were the light shines brightest and the light has been pointing at the actuator arm. When I purchased this car my intention was to rely mostly on professional maintenance, but sometimes I can’t resist. I don’t have a creeper or a set of ramps…I just roll around on the floor (not a pretty sight). Looking at the corroded condition of the existing hardware I know once I started I would most likely replace most components with new.

Once again, I have very much appreciated the input (and education) I received from you and others, but at least for now I’m going to leave things as they are…the headlamp system is 95% functional with the one switch disconnected.

Btw, the service manual (page 12-4) does refer to that adjustment screw as having a rubber bumper.

Now on to the lamp monitoring system!

Regards,
Tom

 

Hi Tom,
When working on the lamp monitoring system be especially careful with the 'tubes of the console lens.
They've become very fragile with age and split easily.
There are reproductions, but they don't seem to work as well (brightness) as the originals…particularly the one at the left (it's actually a prism) in this photo.
Be careful!
Regards,
Alan

You can see I split mine but I still use it.

 

Where does the power come from and how does the center storage lamp "hook up"? I've got the assembly, lamp, two leads, plunger switch, but what does it hook up to?

 

You should find a pigtail in the jack storage compartment.

 

Ok Easy Mike...one for each lead, then?

 

It's been a while since I've looked in there...will investigate again this week.