1969 corvette drivers side lower dash panel
My panel is beyond repair... I need a new one. Does anyone have experience with their purchase of a new panel?
I'm concerned mostly about fit.
Thanks..
So much has to due with edges being crisp and so on. Little bits here and there.... equate to a panel that juts does not seem to fit like the original.
But what are you going to do..at least I am grateful that they make them.
DUB
So much has to due with edges being crisp and so on. Little bits here and there.... equate to a panel that juts does not seem to fit like the original.
But what are you going to do..at least I am grateful that they make them.
DUB
CA sent Mike and Doug down to my shop and we worked for three days making changes to the pad and doing test fits..
You'll not find a better fitting dash pad and you'll not have any issues with the lower pads. CA recently re-tooled the passenger side as well and it is just as good as the driver side lower. Spot on.
The first picture is one during this test fit and you can see where I'm pointing out issues with the fit.
The second picture is the finished product installed in a 1971 car in my shop. Not the right lower pad was not from the new retooling but since this picture was snapped it too has been re-tooled and fits just as nicely as the driver side lower.
I have two cars here that I own a 1970 LT-1 convertible with 70k miles and a 1972 coupe with 88k miles.. both cars have the original dash pads! I have to say the fit of the new pads is IMHO, better than what is in my own cars.
Ernie


Both pads are the current production reproductions in this picture.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Dec 8, 2016 at 10:12 PM.
CA sent Mike and Doug down to my shop and we worked for three days making changes to the pad and doing test fits..
You'll not find a better fitting dash pad and you'll not have any issues with the lower pads. CA recently re-tooled the passenger side as well and it is just as good as the driver side lower. Spot on.
The first picture is one during this test fit and you can see where I'm pointing out issues with the fit.
The second picture is the finished product installed in a 1971 car in my shop. Not the right lower pad was not from the new retooling but since this picture was snapped it too has been re-tooled and fits just as nicely as the driver side lower.
I have two cars here that I own a 1970 LT-1 convertible with 70k miles and a 1972 coupe with 88k miles.. both cars have the original dash pads! I have to say the fit of the new pads is IMHO, better than what is in my own cars.
Ernie


Both pads are the current production reproductions in this picture.

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My advice is take note of how your harness is routed before you remove the pad... take photos before you completely remove it to ensure you remember all of the proper vacuum and electrical interfaces...use the AIM..and don't use excessive force on anything when removing or installing.
Use this forum for help... lots of experienced folks.
The left side lower dash IS tricky as folks have said.
The tachometer and speedometer cables are VERY stiff and once connected to the back of the gauge bodies make moving the pad difficult.
The 'elbow' connection to the round astro vent is cumbersome.
The hood release cable mounting bracket gets in the way and needs to be worked around (unless you can figure out a way to install it after the pad is in place.
The electrical and vacuum hose connections for the headlight switch, the wiper door solenoid valve/switch, and the wiper and headlight over-rides mounted below the steering column all need to be carefully done and tested before the dash is 'closed-up'.
Patience!!!
Regards,
Alan
I can also agree that paying very careful attention to hose routing and wiring, etc is paramount. Hopefully no one has been in the dash and messed it up so when you put it back in you are not fighting with an improper installation.
I have encountered dash panels were someone left out the special shouldered taper washers. Without them,....the head of the Phillips can pull through the vinyl and get under the vinyl and down into the foam area. I have encountered this more times than I care to count and I usually have to get my heat gun out to warm up the vinyl so when I try to get the Phillips head screw out...I do not crack the vinyl.
Also...I know most people would not go deeper into the dash ( because they would rather be doing anything else but this)...but I can tell you that I would seriously inspect your heater box,vacuum hoses, cables. Especially an A/C car due to the vacuum pods used on moving your doors inside it to correctly channel the air where you want. Because the last thing a person wants is to be all done and then have to tear back into it again...and do it ALL OVER AGAIN.
The vacuum actuator pod that is on the heater box for an A/C car. It is between the heater box and the firewall...and the heater box needs to be detached to service it.
Trust me...it is worth the extra $$$ and time....unless you just want to do it twice.
This is the view when you pull your main duct attached to the heater box off of an A/C equipped car.. What you want to see is that the creamy white plastic retainer on the door is still intact. IF it is broken...you are screwed and the door WILL NOT operate correctly...even if the vacuum pod is working correctly.
This is the vacuum pod that operated the door that the creamy white plastic part is attached to. It is bad.
A view of the vacuum pod out of the heater box.
The pod is bad. The rust and torn seal where the shaft comes out of the pod is torn. This A/C vacuum system would not work correctly until this was repaired.
The vacuum pod installed, tested and adjusted for proper operation.
DUB
Which piece..
On the right side they are simple.. I have instructions on removing the dash pads on my tech page... but I revised it a few years back because we have two different ways of doing this.
If you are taking all the pads out and if you are just removing the drivers side pad.
To me.. either way.. I'd pull the steering column out of the car because it makes this job so much easier. So I'd start with the instruction sheet on removing all the pads.. and when I got to the left pad I'd switch over to "removing the left pad the easy way".
I'll make a change to the instructions soon, I'm just slammed for time right now.
1968-1977 Corvette Dash Pad Remove And Install Instructions
1968-1977 Corvette Left Hand Dash Pad Removal
You follow the two combined and you'll get it out pretty quick.
On 1968-1974 cars with a mechanical tach, I'd remove the tach cable from the distributor before I pulled the pad. This will allow you to pull the dash toward you so removing the clip on the cable is a snap. If you follow the left pad removal instructions above you don't have to disconnect the speedo cable, there is enough slack in the cable to pull the pad backward to un-clip... But read them.. with the column out (and that's an easy job) the pad is sooooooooooooooooo much easier to remove and install. My shop can have the pad in and out in 2 hours or less if needed.
-Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Dec 9, 2016 at 09:18 PM.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Dec 9, 2016 at 11:37 PM.

If he reads both my papers he'll get this done the easy way..
Pulling the column on the left pad removal is a must... it makes the job a piece of cake.Ernie.


















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