When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello all,
I need some advice, i have a Rust diffenretial for a c3 pc 1978
I would like to have it clean / paint
Looking at the ncrs book, it is mentioned unpaintex cast iron
What is your advice, blasting and paint, clear coat, etc ?
Are you going to have it NCRS judged, or do you just want it to look good?
If it will be 'judged', ask Alan71 or other NCRS members what is the best way to approach your "problem".
If not, wire brush all loose rust off the parts. Any items that are easily removable should be removed for manual cleaning (wire brush, chemical, etc), washing, and painting [either engine enamel 'clear' or some metal-colored paint]. Once loose rust is off the diffy, spray it with rust converter to prevent further rusting (and that will become a primer coating), then shoot VHT metal-colored paint to suit your taste.
I firmly believe in painting or coating EVERY BARE METAL PART so that they will clean up easily and never corrode.
I know nothing of "NCRS correctness", but if you just want it to look nice, Eastwood makes a paint called Cast Blast. It looks like cast iron. I did my differential in this stuff, and it looks great.
Hi A,
I'll start with the differential crossmember since that's an easy one. Semi-flat black.
There are lots of options for the differential case itself:
bare cast iron
bare cast iron with a protectorant like PreLube6.
Semi flat clear
Cast Blast.
If you decide on Cast Blast remember the finished product will look more original if the fasteners don't have paint on them. The same is true for the yokes and u-joints. You could use clear on those if you wish.
Regards,
Alan
These photos are from a 71. (Made a bit too pretty.)
Thanks for the reply, nice pictures too
I don't want to be ncrs judged but i want to be as close as possible to the original
I will go with your advice
Thanks
Thanks for the reply, nice pictures too
I don't want to be ncrs judged but i want to be as close as possible to the original
I will go with your advice
Thanks
I love a product called Rust Prevention magic. You can google it. It dries to the touch and has kept the differential in my 70 rust free for about 3 years and appears as cast new. My garage is not temperature or humidity controlled and it looks freshly cast.
It does require a heat gun to heat up the part being coated with the RPM.
I love a product called Rust Prevention magic. You can google it. It dries to the touch and has kept the differential in my 70 rust free for about 3 years and appears as cast new. My garage is not temperature or humidity controlled and it looks freshly cast.
It does require a heat gun to heat up the part being coated with the RPM.
I have another question,
Looking at the nice picture of spring
Mine is 9 leafs with zinc liners
I guess the leaf have to be paint grey, right ?
What about the zinc liners, i will replace them with new one, but do i paint them ?
I'm sure the spring 'pack' was painted [outside] as an assembled set. You don't want paint on the "working" surfaces of the spring or the liners...they are designed to 'slip' against each other. Paint on those [inner] surfaces would not work as intended (and would make a lot of paint flaking mess!).
I'm sure the spring 'pack' was painted [outside] as an assembled set. You don't want paint on the "working" surfaces of the spring or the liners...they are designed to 'slip' against each other. Paint on those [inner] surfaces would not work as intended (and would make a lot of paint flaking mess!).
Hi nice precision' agree but
My spring leafs have some old paint trace on inner side, it is not the case about liners
This will remove a lot of the rust and leave a good base for paint. The same company has a decent spray can primer called Fusion, it bonds really well.
Any spray can topcoat will melt off with spray brake/carb cleaners, fuel or oils, which is why I generally use an mcu
for a finish coat. Have to brush them or spray with a spray gun. But you can spray them with cleaners or get fuel/fluids on it without watching your new paint melt off.
That's going to be a lot of hand work to do it right, no getting around it. Allow a half day just for cleaning. Cleaners of your choice, scrub and rinse repeatedly, rustblast (or similar) a couple times, prime and paint.
Btw... are you going to replace those leaky stub axle and pinion seals and cover gasket while it's out?
Unpainted differential
