Have been lurking this great forum and gleaning information from what I believe are the true experts of the marque. Thank you all for your willingness to share your knowledge. Currently I am in the hunt for a C3, thinking along the lines of a 68-72, but that is not cast in stone by any means. My finances however will dictate that this Vette will be my daily driver. I would welcome any feedback you all might have in that regard, particularly those of you that are using your Vette as a daily driver.
I have wrenched on cars for over 30 years and grew up primarily working on Chevys and Jags, so I am fairly comfortable doing a lot of my own work. However I am Corvette ignorant, and am aware that most cars have their own idiosyncrasies.
Thanks much,
Dave

 

I had '69s as my only car for a couple of years but the cars weren't very old at the time. Other than the rear suspension I look as C3s as pretty much another Chevy. Like any 40 year old car there are a lot of preventive maintenance things I'd try to do before relying on it daily. Brakes, wheel bearings and bushings aren't glamorous but make a big difference on a daily driver. Keep the engine relatively mild. I loved driving a 350/350 every day.

 

I drove my 79 daily for four years before starting my frame off resto-mod. If you have experience with cars, it shouldn't be much of an issue. There are some tight spaces, especially up front, and the vacuum system can be a pain to get sorted out. The t-tops will probably leak, which isn't much of an issue if you're not planning to drive it when it rains.

As previously mentioned, the rear end is probably the biggest difference between the corvette and other cars you're probably familiar with (I don't know much about jags). The stock strut rod alignment system uses a cam bolt and can have some problems maintaining camber.

My car needed some TLC after I bought it, but once I got everything worked out, it was very reliable as a daily driver. Hope this helps.

MajD

 

Rookie here: I knew nothing about Corvettes 3 years ago. Expert members advised me on the best manuals to buy, and to rebuild/replace safety items first (brakes/tires/bearings/suspension).

Just be SURE to buy the "year" C3 that you really want!

 

Have an 80 4/speed I drive semi-daily, meaning I am not worried about miles. Was rebuilt about 15,000 miles ago(also got rid of all emissions crud). I purchased a later year model as I don't know if I would be willing to use a C1 or C2 as a DD.
Love knowing that I get to drive when I want. I do usually avoid rain or any icy conditions though. I say drive it!!!!

 

The only car I drive is my 69, with few exceptions; there is salt on the roads, raining to hard [don't want to take the chance of accident], Or I'm driving my 6t8. The 9-car gets over 5000 miles every year and a couple of oil changes. Looking forward to clean roads again. T

 

I would be hesitant to drive my 1971 coupe daily. Were I to get a daily driver C3, I would go with 1980-1982.

 

FWIW: The money you intend to put toward a C3 will buy a C4 or C5, either of which is likely too be a better daily driver.

 

Hi Dave,
When I bought my 71 it was my only car and I drove it about 35,000 miles in a year and a half. I thought it was a terrific car…. and it WAS…. for 1971-1972.
I don't drive it now but could imagine driving it quite a bit, but could NOT imagine having it as my only car. (I've changed and cars have changed…. a lot!).
I think you can certainly have a 68-72 to drive regularly but might also find the need to have an inexpensive 'fall back' car/truck too.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

 

I love that a 350/350 now a days is considered relativlely mild. I guess it is with the base hp of corvettes and hellcats and the new mustangs. I think that is awesome.

Back to your question, depending on where you live, a c3 daily driver any year, isnt out of the question. Yes it can be, but I would be hesitant if you get snow as it is light and posi doesnt like to lose traction. Mechanically, yes it is like any other vehicle. Proper maintenance can keep your vehicle very reliable. There are no sensors to go bad and leave you stranded, and any problem can be diagnosed enough to get you limping home or to a shop.

If you buy a vehicle that has been well maintained and driven before, you can get the maintenance records from that owner and know if and when important parts of the drive line and suspension where replaced. And if regular oil/lubes where done and if tuneups where performed. IT IS A USED CAR. Just remember that. A first impression of the owner, how the car was stored and used, How the house , yard and garage look. If the previous owner keeps up on maintenance your in luck. If they didnt, its more work for you. My Dad always says, you're buying someone elses problem.

The cars of those times will require that you keep an eye on them and listen when they tell you a part is wearing out.

regular oil changes with conventional lubes will want a 3000 mile oil change and a lube of the u joints, ball joints, clutch z arm, anything with a zerk fitting. Checking of the belts and hoses,and a tune up every 10,000 miles. Personally I would replace all essential rubber items when you get it as well as a oil change and tune up.

As for leaks, I would suggest a convertible with a hard top. You will probably need to replace the weatherstripping if it wasnt done to your vehicle and the top. Its relatively simple but can be pricey for what it is.

Another solution and what we did in the 70's and 80's was to buy a $500 winter beater and put the car up for the winter. You can just put the lowest insurance availble on the beater and just do an oil change and a tuneup to keep it running for the winter. Nowadays an old honda/ toyota will run great for the winter and they are a dime a dozen. If you live in the Fla LA TX AZ then you just have to worry about heavy rain.

Remember these are vehicles and not ancient pottery. A daily driver doesnt need correct date/number stamped parts. Most replacements can be found at a good auto parts store. Just find one with a salesperson in there 50's so they know the vehicle. I had a kid that didnt know the make of my car when I told him it was a 68 Vette. And they will it the button for the most common part even when you tell them its for a 72 LT1. You have to tell them to hit the part for the lowest percentage if its a rare option like that.

That being said, be wary of the new cheap chinese parts as the quality is dropping fast on uncommon parts. Ask here or just pay attention to the new posts on any part quality. New 68 wiper switches are junk and the headlight switches arent much better. I would look for a used original for the wiper switch and roll the dice on headlight switches. Bigger items like brakes and pumps and such should have quality control but I would look for a remanufactured item hoping that the casting was original just so you know it fits and the machining was quality. At least all the remanufactured brake calipers are stainless sleeved and have o ring seals.

You may have to go to the manufacturer to get some specific parts for rarer options like belts or hoses. As well as spark plug numbers. I had to for my 72 LT1 motor as the local shops didn't carry them. A quick look at Gates and I found the correct belt and hose numbers and was able to find them at Amazon pretty cheaply.

What you should replace if your car is sold as a driver. This is my list and I will add to it as I remember things, hopefully other members will add their experience too

1. tires over 10 years old
2. all belts
3. all radiator/heater hoses
4. any rubber fuel lines
5. bleed your brakes, look for water in the fluid
6. tune up replacing plugs, cap and wires. Rotor and condenser if equipped
7. rubber brake lines if cracked
8. check ball joints, tie rod ends and u joints, requires jacking of the vehicle
9. check for power steering rubber hose wear. Mine were leaking and had a small crack on the return line which eventually ruptured from being cut to short
10. If the brakes were not done recently, pull the discs and lube all the bearings. Check for wear before pulling
11. All fluid levels? condition before replacing. replace all fluids
12. make sure everything works as it should. Lights, vacuum operated doors, horns, wipers, gauges, dash lights, convertible top, t tops, seat adjustments ( old grease may not allow the seats to lock properly}

I did what I suggested and drove my Vette every weekend all summer long. I put 3000 miles on her and just had to keep an eye on my oil levels. Never a hiccup. Just remember you are buying a used car. No sensors to tell you a tire is low, its time to change the oil,etc...., nothing is sealed so it all needs lubing. Just pay attention and love your car, it will love you back.

If you can afford it, add in $1500 for a Ranger Quickjack SLX 5000 or 7500. Its a mini lift and will make your maintenance a dream. There is a vendor on here that does a deal on them. Lots of threads on them. Worth every penny. If you get a convertible you wot want to suspend it off the wheels long as they tend to sag. Lots of threads on this as well, not a huge deal, just good info. I had mine up for 2 months and it returned to normal, but from now on I would lower it onto wheel blocks and keep the jack up as a safety if required. Depending on what I was replacing

 

Drive it like you stole it!

I restored and drove a '72 for a couple years regularly. It was a great driver and the looks I got on the road were a blast!

We only live once, so if it's your dream, I say go for it!

 

I believe my 72 could be a daily driver. I won't, it's my fun car. But I rebuilt or replaced everything! I mean it, not 1 component hasn't been untouched. So my suggestion would be to look for the most restored car you can possibly find, budget permitting. There was a guy on here a few yrs ago who bought a 69 427, he daily drove it down in FL. Haven't heard from him in awhile. A requirement for classic insurance, if you were thinking along those lines, is you must also have a late model DD for every licensed driver in your household. Yes a C3 gets the head turns, thumbs ups, and even the attention of the ladies as well as the car guys.
With the right purchase/car you can too!

 

I know some people have old vintage cars to just show off and they never drive them, I would go nuts just looking at it,

I had my first vette a 72 bb ac convertible at 18-19 it was my dd, then I had an 81 around 83 which by 88 I had over 100K dd miles on it, I did the normal maintenance, then I scored in the early 90's a custom 66 no power anything no heat no ac hard top only, and yep, daily driver, I had many other vettes and I had others during the years other makes and models but never a time until the last few years that I didn't have a c3/vette dd,
My 69 will also be a DD, my personal dd right now is an 87 Fiero.

while I too changed over the years as cars have, at 52 do not crawl over the side pipes as easy as when I was in my 20's but I never cared about seat warmers or lighted vanity mirrors, things like FI is super cool but the key to an old vintage car being a sound DD is that is has to be up to par if a person says their c3 isn't a good dd it's their fault for letting it rag out, and or being spoiled to new car features.

 

Buying a cheap C3 might just be buying problems and the C4's are already dirt cheap . The C5's are following with price decreases . Either one would make a good dependable driver.

 

Here is my daily driver. I am restoring a 1972 as well. When the 72 is done I may just swap out and restore the 1970. They don't get the gas mileage a new car gets but they also don't depreciate like a new one does either. People lose TONS of money on new cars every day and never think about it a second.....they buy a old car and now its the main issue ???

BTW...I am single and 57. May make a difference.

 

My '78 was my DD for the first 5 years I've had it (bought it new) and I drove it in all weather conditions from beautiful sunny days to blizzards to freezing rain.

Freezing rain was the hardest to deal with (only situation where I needed help to get unstuck) and if the snow was really deep it would plow under the front and try to lift the car but I always managed to get through it.

I stopped driving it regularly when the kids came along and I got tired of wet feet when it rained (I hardly remember a time when the T-tops didn't leak).

Now the kids are grown and the only reason I don't drive it more regularly is the wet feet issue and resultant wet carpet smell if it happens to rain.

It has almost 500,000 kms on it and has never left me stranded so I would consider it a great daily driver.

 

My '79 Vette shares daily driver duty with my '79 Ford F250 (and theoretically my '70 MG, but it's been off the road a couple of years). I've driven it to work (~35 miles each way) every day except 2 for the past 3 weeks. Avoid the rain mostly, but it's rained today while the car is parked outside at work, and I'm not going to stress about it... I have replaced or rebuilt basically every mechanical part on the car since I bought it 18 months ago, but I knew it was mechanically worn out when I bought it.

 

Just do it !

 

I drive it all the time, like I stole it. I love getting the c3 sideways, I think its really predictable for a 60's design chassis.
It's actually one of the more reliable cars I have ever had, it always starts up and runs... sure it occasionally leaks something but it always runs consistent.

the only issue is that as a daily, you will have to park it places where it can get door dings etc.. it seems everytime I park it no matter how careful I am or how far away I park it, someone will come and park stupidly close to it.. if you aren't worried about that then I say go for it!!

 

Make sure it is mechanically up to snuff and go for it! And if you truly do daily drive it, sole transportation, make sure your insurance and vehicle registration are suitable for daily driving.

Tom