First time pulling and rebuilding my engine help
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
First time pulling and rebuilding my engine help
Hey guys,
After pulling into my driveway tonight I heard a loud chatter coming from the driver side valve cover of my 76' L82 stingray. This was the final straw and I decided I would be pulling my engine and rebuilding the top end (heads+camshaft, I've already swapped to an Edelbrock intake, and have flowtech heads).
I need some advice on how to pull my engine and what equipment to buy. My car is manual so after doing some research people were saying to pull the engine coupled with the transmission.
- What engine hoist and engine stand would you guys recommend buying?
- What are the steps to pulling the engine and transmission?
- Once the engine is pulled out how do you mount the engine since the bellhousing is taken up? Do you have to remove the transmission then?
- What cylinder heads and camshaft would you guys recommend for power (as well as pushrods and springs and other auxiliary parts)?
- Since I have the transmission out how hard would it be to change the clutch+flywheel?
This is my first time attempting a big job like this. Any help is much appreciated (reference material is also much appreciated!).
Thank you!
After pulling into my driveway tonight I heard a loud chatter coming from the driver side valve cover of my 76' L82 stingray. This was the final straw and I decided I would be pulling my engine and rebuilding the top end (heads+camshaft, I've already swapped to an Edelbrock intake, and have flowtech heads).
I need some advice on how to pull my engine and what equipment to buy. My car is manual so after doing some research people were saying to pull the engine coupled with the transmission.
- What engine hoist and engine stand would you guys recommend buying?
- What are the steps to pulling the engine and transmission?
- Once the engine is pulled out how do you mount the engine since the bellhousing is taken up? Do you have to remove the transmission then?
- What cylinder heads and camshaft would you guys recommend for power (as well as pushrods and springs and other auxiliary parts)?
- Since I have the transmission out how hard would it be to change the clutch+flywheel?
This is my first time attempting a big job like this. Any help is much appreciated (reference material is also much appreciated!).
Thank you!
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 2,192
Likes: 343
From: Allenton Wisconsin
Engine stand; one with four wheels.
Hoist; rent one.
You don't need to remove the tranny for any of the work you described.
Heads; AFR.
Cam, lifters and pushrods; Straub Tech.
After you decide on cam profile then you talk to head manufacture to get correct valve springs.
It is always advisable to do the bottom of engine at this time; rings bearings, oil pump.
You need to decide on what kind of power you want and at what RPM you expect to achieve that power, for example; a stock rods and crankshaft is very questionable at 400HP over 6000RPM.
Engine removal; GET A HELPER, remove hood, drain radiator, mount car on quality jack stands, remove right front tire, disconnect every thing from engine. Separate the engine at bell housing, leaving the bell attached to tranny. Cut a piece of 2x4 to put under bell for support. attach engine hoist to engine[you'll note the hoist legs must enter on a diagonal basically where the RT tire was]. Lift slowly making sure you disconnected every thing. After you cleared the mounts [this is the height of that 2x4] pull engine forward to separate the tranny input shaft from clutch, now you're free to go.
Do a lot of research before buying parts, there are a lot of very helpful members here on this forum that are willing to help, any questions as you go just ask. T
Hoist; rent one.
You don't need to remove the tranny for any of the work you described.
Heads; AFR.
Cam, lifters and pushrods; Straub Tech.
After you decide on cam profile then you talk to head manufacture to get correct valve springs.
It is always advisable to do the bottom of engine at this time; rings bearings, oil pump.
You need to decide on what kind of power you want and at what RPM you expect to achieve that power, for example; a stock rods and crankshaft is very questionable at 400HP over 6000RPM.
Engine removal; GET A HELPER, remove hood, drain radiator, mount car on quality jack stands, remove right front tire, disconnect every thing from engine. Separate the engine at bell housing, leaving the bell attached to tranny. Cut a piece of 2x4 to put under bell for support. attach engine hoist to engine[you'll note the hoist legs must enter on a diagonal basically where the RT tire was]. Lift slowly making sure you disconnected every thing. After you cleared the mounts [this is the height of that 2x4] pull engine forward to separate the tranny input shaft from clutch, now you're free to go.
Do a lot of research before buying parts, there are a lot of very helpful members here on this forum that are willing to help, any questions as you go just ask. T
Pro
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 607
Likes: 122
If you are dead set on removing it and rebuilding it. Remember, Youtube is your friend when you get stuck. Terry pointed out some good stuff, but I would also remove the radiator for more room.
Find a local builder and tell him what you want done. Hence, if you have a problem with the motor, you can take it back for advice and or repair as needed.
Engine removal is pretty straight forward, but a friend and cold beer will get it done quicker.
Find a local builder and tell him what you want done. Hence, if you have a problem with the motor, you can take it back for advice and or repair as needed.
Engine removal is pretty straight forward, but a friend and cold beer will get it done quicker.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,814
Likes: 414
From: Pittsburgh suburbs Pa.
Why pull the engine if it is not using oil ? The bottom end might have already been gone through in the past and not need anything done to it. It's possible that it just needs a valve adjustment or a bad lifter. I would start by looking there.
Dr. Detroit
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,097
Likes: 4,027
From: New Braunfels Texas
Pull the heads and inspect before you go any further......
I recommend Dart heads.......most here like AFR....to-may-toe/to-mah-toe.
I also recommend Harland Sharp rockers and Trend pushrods at this level.
Cam wise I use a few of Comps grinds (Mostly the old Magnum line) and Howard's if going for a hydraulic roller.
Straub is good at recommending cams as well if you do not want to dick with it......
I also like split guide plates.....and the ARP head bolt kits with the stainless outer bolts.
Jebby
I recommend Dart heads.......most here like AFR....to-may-toe/to-mah-toe.
I also recommend Harland Sharp rockers and Trend pushrods at this level.
Cam wise I use a few of Comps grinds (Mostly the old Magnum line) and Howard's if going for a hydraulic roller.
Straub is good at recommending cams as well if you do not want to dick with it......
I also like split guide plates.....and the ARP head bolt kits with the stainless outer bolts.
Jebby
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Engine stand; one with four wheels.
Hoist; rent one.
You don't need to remove the tranny for any of the work you described.
Heads; AFR.
Cam, lifters and pushrods; Straub Tech.
After you decide on cam profile then you talk to head manufacture to get correct valve springs.
It is always advisable to do the bottom of engine at this time; rings bearings, oil pump.
You need to decide on what kind of power you want and at what RPM you expect to achieve that power, for example; a stock rods and crankshaft is very questionable at 400HP over 6000RPM.
Engine removal; GET A HELPER, remove hood, drain radiator, mount car on quality jack stands, remove right front tire, disconnect every thing from engine. Separate the engine at bell housing, leaving the bell attached to tranny. Cut a piece of 2x4 to put under bell for support. attach engine hoist to engine[you'll note the hoist legs must enter on a diagonal basically where the RT tire was]. Lift slowly making sure you disconnected every thing. After you cleared the mounts [this is the height of that 2x4] pull engine forward to separate the tranny input shaft from clutch, now you're free to go.
Do a lot of research before buying parts, there are a lot of very helpful members here on this forum that are willing to help, any questions as you go just ask. T
Hoist; rent one.
You don't need to remove the tranny for any of the work you described.
Heads; AFR.
Cam, lifters and pushrods; Straub Tech.
After you decide on cam profile then you talk to head manufacture to get correct valve springs.
It is always advisable to do the bottom of engine at this time; rings bearings, oil pump.
You need to decide on what kind of power you want and at what RPM you expect to achieve that power, for example; a stock rods and crankshaft is very questionable at 400HP over 6000RPM.
Engine removal; GET A HELPER, remove hood, drain radiator, mount car on quality jack stands, remove right front tire, disconnect every thing from engine. Separate the engine at bell housing, leaving the bell attached to tranny. Cut a piece of 2x4 to put under bell for support. attach engine hoist to engine[you'll note the hoist legs must enter on a diagonal basically where the RT tire was]. Lift slowly making sure you disconnected every thing. After you cleared the mounts [this is the height of that 2x4] pull engine forward to separate the tranny input shaft from clutch, now you're free to go.
Do a lot of research before buying parts, there are a lot of very helpful members here on this forum that are willing to help, any questions as you go just ask. T
How does this look for an engine stand (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...ga/overview/)?
If the goal is 400HP, will the stock pistons+crank from the L82 not support that type of power, if not what do you guys recommend?
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,518
Likes: 505
From: Bussey, IA
That looks fine for an engine stand, but I would recommend searching through Craig'slist for a used one about 1/3 the price. May find a good used hoist too for cheap. You can always sell them later or keep to loan out to your friends - you know, the ones that come help you pull and drop yours in. Renting one is fine, but my projects seem to take more time than I thought they would, so the luxury of having it around whenever I want plus being able to help my friends makes it worth having it around.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,950
Likes: 498
From: Chino Hills CA
Before you spend a dime, pull your valve cover and take a look. Chances are it's something very simple. It might be obvious, maybe a bent or broken pushrod, maybe a bad rocker. if it's not obvious, pull your plugs and turn over the engine with a wrench and watch the valve train in action. Still nothing. The put the plugs back in and have someone start the engine with the valve cover off and watch. You should be able to figure it out, especially with the Forum's help. Worst worst case, you will not have to pull the engine for top end work, and even then, you shouldn't need new heads, your existing heads may need repair, but most likely minor.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 2,192
Likes: 343
From: Allenton Wisconsin
If you are looking at a 400HP limit as your goal, from what I've read the Edelbrock heads are a very good choice. Keep in mind that 400HP is your peak HP and my question is how often are you going to demand that? Normal street driving - once in awile, spirited driving - more often, on a race track all the time. I'm not familiar with the L82 crank whether it is cast or forged. If it's forged no problem if it's a cast crank you are chancing it. Cast crank engines have cast rods and all of the SBCs that I've trashed have been do to rod failure and I did that a lot just a long time ago. Just for an example the engine I built for my 69 daily driver is a 434 and I'm sure it peaks over 400HP, all the internals are forged but to tell you the truth that if I've had the engine over 4000 RPM , well I remember 1 time for sure maybe twice. Are you looking at the complete valve train kit from Edelbrock? It's a nice kit.T
Pro
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 708
Likes: 150
From: Minnesota
ARMENAG... How many miles on the motor? Just be aware that if the motor has high miles, uses any oil, smokes on acceleration or is generally worn, freshening heads and swapping the cam may blow the rings out of your motor in short order ... ask me how I know. Additional lift and better sealed heads can raise the cylinder pressures and take a toll on old, weak rings. On one of my first rebuilds I freshened the top end and recammed a high mileage motor and the rings let go during cam break-in, leaving a steady stream of glorious blue smoke. I ended up pulling it back out and turning it into a major rebuild.
If you're pulling it out, freshen the bottom end while you're at it, unless you're already sure it's solid and has good compression.
If you're pulling it out, freshen the bottom end while you're at it, unless you're already sure it's solid and has good compression.
Last edited by JoeMinnesota; Feb 5, 2017 at 01:11 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 81
From: Hamilton Virginia
ARMENAG... How many miles on the motor? Just be aware that if the motor has high miles, uses any oil, smokes on acceleration or is generally worn, freshening heads and swapping the cam may blow the rings out of your motor in short order ... ask me how I know. Additional lift and better sealed heads can raise the cylinder pressures and take a toll on old, weak rings. On one of my first rebuilds I freshened the top end and recammed a high mileage motor and the rings let go during cam break-in, leaving a steady stream of glorious blue smoke. I ended up pulling it back out and turning it into a major rebuild.
If you're pulling it out, freshen the bottom end while you're at it, unless you're already sure it's solid and has good compression.
If you're pulling it out, freshen the bottom end while you're at it, unless you're already sure it's solid and has good compression.
I did this once many years ago, rebuilt the top end of a motor that should have gotten a full rebuild. the newer top end was too much for the bottom end, started burning oil with 6 months.
You need to see whats wrong first, then determine a top end rebuild or full rebuild. buy a hoist and stand, either new or used of craigslist. no renting. Leave the tranny in the car, less work IMO, besides the fact you will have to take it off the motor to replace the clutch anyways, and you do not have to remove the hood or radiator to pull just the motor. I have done it twice, once with a small block and a big block. I also did not have the option of a helper either time, but if you have a helper it does go quicker unless your **** like me and prefer doing stuff yourself. IMO, Edlebrock is good stuff but not high end, its like performance on a budget, but not the same quality as high end.