Hi all, and thanks for all the warm welcome's.
Welcome to my very first corvette build. ( read as, " welcome to my very first build" ) The only other total restoration job I've done was a boat, which was hard for me cause I'm not really a boat guy. But it turned out great, and I broke even on the money side. ( Not counting the parts cost, or all the man hours involved of course.) The boat build was done for me, and me only. I built it the way I wanted it because I was gonna keep it forever. And, I had a great time doing it. Only sold it because we found a new house that we just HAD to have, and I needed cash for the down payment. Since Lake Mead is now more like Puddle Mead, it was a good choice to sell.

I'm an old pipefitter/welder by trade, Although the last time I actually had my hood down was nearly 20 years ago now. It'll be interesting to see how well those old skills are.

My goal for this build is simple, make it the best 77ish it can be. Use modern parts where they are appropriate, and make it fun to drive. This car will be a driver, not a show stopper. I'm gonna build it like I'm gonna keep it. (knowing I'll have to sell it to pay for the next one)

Since I'm new to vettes, any and all feedback is welcome.

The engine is pretty much decided, old 402 bored out to 427, mild cam, new heads, headers. Figuring 450-500 HP.

I'm going to full weld the box frame, and add the GM recomended gussetts.

Not totally decided on suspension, or steering. Seems from my research, everybody is pretty much 50/50 on how much, if any, gain is to be had from the high doller new stuff. I'm leaning toward new, but original bb springs, and new steering box. If there's anyone out there who swears I should convert to rack and pinion, please speak now. Also, I will almost deffinatly be running 18" wheels.

Thanks in advance to all who help

 

Heavy front bumber support out.



Front end ready for body removal





Rear body mount bolt. Slight rusting. came out easy though.

 

Welcome!
'77 models don't seem to benefit in re-sale value from high dollar add on's.
I've already spent more on mine than it's worth (and that is with me doing 100% of the labor).

To address your items concerning suspension and steering:

If you're going to have to completely rebuild the suspension, I would recommend keeping the stock components and replacing all of the wear items with one exception - I would install adjustable strut rods in the rear suspension.

For steering, I would look at changing to a Borgeson steering box. This will eliminate the steering control valve and the hydraulic assist cylinder. In return, you will get better steering with fewer potential hydraulic leak paths.

Good luck on your project!

 

looks like a fun project . did you get an interior with it ? any damage to the frame right side front ?

 

No interior, the fender was blown apart from a shreaded tire I think. I have it, but it's not worth fixing IMO. Just gonna replace it. From what I can see, the frame is good. As soon as I round up a cherry picker, the body will come off. Then we will see what its really like.

 

I would also consider 2 additional items - 1) a composite rear spring, and 2) tubular upper A arms. C3 frames tend to 'settle' as they age, and these will assure you enough adjustment when aligning.

 

I can't argue against either one of these suggestions.
In fact, I installed a composite rear spring, too. I've also been researching tubular upper A arms, but haven't decided.

 

Just fyi. a 402 can't be bored far enough to make it a 427, if it can be bored at all. It is already a .030 over 396. (I'm assuming you're talking about a big block.)

 

I've had some discussions about exactly that with my motor guy, he assures me that as long as it's an old block, (think he said pre 68, but not positive) the extra Nickel content in the metel would allow it, without causing overheating issues. He also said that he himself has already done several, and all are fine.

Because I had doubts, I did some research. What I found was pretty much what my motor guy said.

I myself know just enough about motors to sound like an idiot when talking to another motor guy, so just another reason I'm documenting this build here. It's like having 10,000 car experts examine every step. I welcome all feedback, and thank you for yours.

So now that I have doubt's again, I guess I will reconsider the engine again. Lol

Anyone out there ever bored a 402 to a 427? Success or failure?
Thanks all

 

Ok, so the Borg box was already on my short list for steering upgrades, as well as the comp. rear spring. I had originally planned for the A arm upgrade as well, but after research, It seemed to be of little value to those who had done it. Except maybe those who went the whole mile and did rack and pinion too.

First time I've heard about frame sag, I definitely don't want any alignment problems, as the car will basically be done by that point.

Anyone else had alignment problems using stock upper A arm?

 

One thing I can say for the aftermarket A-arms is that most of them claim to increase negative caster angle, which Borgeson asks for when you install one of their steering boxes. I was able to dial in just over 4° of negative caster with my stock A-arms, but I'm about at the limit if I ever need to make any more camber adjustment. Another option I've seen other members employ for caster adjustment is slotting the holes in the "dog bone" for mounting the upper A-arm.

A spreader bar between the two upper A-arm has been said to minimize sag. Many users swear by them. I installed one when I did all of my suspension rebuild and don't have any complaints.

 

Putting your hood back on is like riding a bike, your skill will return quickly. I'm in the middle of a Restro Mod on my 73. Take a look you might get a few ideas.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1594301296

I'll be watching.

 

so far it looks like your going along fine. I started in a similar path with my Frankenstein lol
here is my story
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...need-help.html
actually posted a video of it running today. I'll be sure to follow this post in case you may have a question I can help with.

 

I think it was done successfully on some 66 396 blocks and maybe some 67 blocks. If your block is an original 402 however, then it can't be a 66 or 67.

 

This was, and is, not the car I want to build, and keep for myself, someday, I want the chrome bumpers. But those two little shiny bumpers come with a lot of added grief. If I had a car with those bumpers, then I would have to go all original, every step of the way. Not
necessarily resulting in a finished car that was as fun to drive, but was originally correct. That's just me, I could'nt take a classic car like that and modify it.

That leads us to the 77. It is WAY past ever being original again. LOL the only thing I'm completly sure is original is the dirt falling out of it. So I don't feel guilty about the mods that will make it fun to drive. I decided that this took a ton of pressure off, and jumped on it. Plus the price was right. Although rolling chassis usually means it comes with some type of rolling mechinism. (I had to buy some late model spares and burr out the holes just to roll it onto the flatbed)

So, long winded reply is no, it's not the original motor for the car. I'ts an old block that my motor guy has been saving for the right car to put it in. (one of many. he has a couple others) I haven't checked the vin, but I assume it came with a sb 350. I thank you for breeching the subject, and as far as I'm concerned, it's still open for debate.

 

77's were only available with 350 sbc's

 

Before removing the door hinge bolts, I spray painted them to help with alignment later



Looks like it should work

 

Disconnected the steering knuckle, and separated the master cylinder from the booster. Almost ready to lift the body

 

Heavy sigh,,, I forgot about the rear bumper, and all those little nuts holding it on.

 

what about ground straps to chassis x4 , hand brake cable , radio antenna , headlight support bar to radiator support panel..............etc