Brake Pads
Reason being is that your old pads are thinner...and you trying to put a thicker pad in will not just go in.
So...if you are trying to do this with the caliper mounted in place...you will need to remove the master cylinder cap and try to get the piston to go back into the caliper...then install the pad.
And having the special tools that hold the pistons back does work...or a very thin sheet of metal that you can use to aid 'shoe horning' in the pad.. Do one pad at a time....and....do not be surprised that when you do this your master cylinder might be quite full due to pushing fluid back into it. So some may need to be removed.
DUB
Work on calipers one at a time; before you remove the pads, put a piece of plastic tubing on the bleeder valve [and into a drain can] and crack it open a bit (leave the little box wrench on the valve); push the [old] pads apart so you can make room for the new ones...this will push [old] brake fluid out of the caliper; as soon as the pads are apart, snug down the bleeder valve; remove old pads, insert new pads. If all goes as expected, finish up on that caliper and move to another.
The intent is to discharge the old, nasty fluid AND make room for the thicker pads. You want to lock down the bleeder valve before the fluid 'backs up' and takes any air into the system If you do this right, there is no need to bleed the brakes or to top off the master cylinder until all of the calipers are done.
Work on calipers one at a time; before you remove the pads, put a piece of plastic tubing on the bleeder valve [and into a drain can] and crack it open a bit (leave the little box wrench on the valve); push the [old] pads apart so you can make room for the new ones...this will push [old] brake fluid out of the caliper; as soon as the pads are apart, snug down the bleeder valve; remove old pads, insert new pads. If all goes as expected, finish up on that caliper and move to another.
The intent is to discharge the old, nasty fluid AND make room for the thicker pads. You want to lock down the bleeder valve before the fluid 'backs up' and takes any air into the system If you do this right, there is no need to bleed the brakes or to top off the master cylinder until all of the calipers are done.
Opening up the bleeders is the way to go...BUT....if a person has a hiccup and allows air to get sucked into the caliper...then they need to be bled.I also did not mention this method due to I have had more bleeders that were screwed up due to someone previously not using a six point 5/16" socket or six point 5/16" box end wrench...that IF I go to loosen then and see that they are seized...that opens up ANOTHER door where problems can begin.
So...that is why I mentioned allowing the fluid to go back to the master cylinder. And yes getting some of the fluid out of the caliper is good...it does very little as an improvement IF the rest of the system is dirty fluid.
DUB















