Scottd

Deep cycle batteries. Whole different creatures right there. The only thing that makes less sense than owning a Corvette in the snow belt is owning a boat, so I ll at least never have to deal with those costs.

7T1vette

I don't know how to say this any 'nicer'....but 'deep cycle' batteries are not really made for auto starting use. Deep cycle batteries have heavier, thicker lead plates; auto batteries have lead 'grids' which have a LOT more surface area than the plates. Auto batteries can provide a short duration of VERY HIGH current discharge...for the starting cycle, maybe in very cold weather.

Deep cycle batteries are for much lower levels of current draw over a MUCH LONGER time: golf carts, emergency power, etc.

If you have a deep cycle battery in a car, and it starts easily it should be no problem. If there is a time when heavy cranking is required, a deep cycle battery could 'throw craps' right there.

Just sayin'....

P.S. I agree with the Wal-Mart, Sam's Club or Costco battery purchases. They are probably made at the same factory, but have a different label and cost much less. They are also nationwide, so if you have a problem, it can usually be resolved wherever you are at the time. I've used Wal-Mart batteries for years with no problems and with NO EARLY FAILURES.

leadfoot4

71 Green 454

When I was installing a data circuit at a battery company in the '90's, they had batteries coming down the assembly line and the workers were applying various labels to the batteries. Same batteries, different names.
You get the idea.

Scottd

Amongst my many jobs during college I also spent quite a bit of time working for Pep Boys and Auto Zone. I too discovered the same thing. Most automotive batteries are all made by the same 3 or 4 manufacturers. It used to crack me up when Pa Woodchuck would come in lamenting about he will ONLY use Brand X batteries because brand Y and Z were junk...(we didn't dare tell them they were all made by the same people)

leadfoot4

But they might have been manufactured to different price points........which "Pa Woodchuck" never took notice of.

maverickmk

I bought a new battery for my daughters Mustang last week at Discount Auto and they are no longer pro-rated. 3 years and then that's it.

tokim

There are only 3-4 automotive type battery suppliers in the US.
Check out the specs..CCA (cold cranking amps), this is what determines the quality.

I could care less if Walmart is cheaper, I don't/won't shop there.

Yes, battery prices have really soared.

Dynra Rockets

Actually CCA is solely from the amount of lead surface area and has little to do with quality for a classic lead acid style battery. The shape and mass of the lead plates determines quality.

A crappy $20 garden tractor battery has 300 CCA but the lead is shaped into a sponge form (think brass scouring pads) so it has lots of surface area but little mass or integrity. They typically last 1-2 seasons because the lead is consumed/breaks apart and falls to the bottom of the case causing a short.

A good quality car starting battery will have lots of lead (thus weigh more) and the shape of the plate will keep its integrity. Determining battery quality in a retail store is a function of weight and warranty length (since you cannot inspect the plate shape you can assume it from the length of the warranty).

A deep cycle battery has essentially solid lead plates (and weigh the most). That give a long life (up to 20 years for a good one) but lower CCA from the less surface area.

A hybrid "dual mode" battery has a swiss cheese style plate so it improves CCA from more surface area but last a little longer than a starting battery since this style plate has more integrity than strips or weave styles.

If there are 3 battery price/quality point option available to you then you have two choices. Buy the lowest priced unit (my experience is that the low and mid-tiers are usually the exact same battery, just with extra price for the mid-tier to cover more warranty costs) and change it out every 3 years, or buy the top line most expensive battery and have it last twice that.

Here in GA I typically opt for the first strategy when using lead acid batteries as our heat is a battery killer.

I had a gell cell style battery last 16 years in my daily driver before it died. For a high end battery purchase a Gel or AGM is the way to go IMO.

Richard Daugird

My buddy "upgraded" the battery in my '65 Riviera for me. Guess what happened when he closed the hood? Battery welded to the hood and shorted out some wiring. I realize, not really an issue in a 'vette...

So I called a place locally thet sells remanufactured batteries, got a Group 24 for $41 including tax. Not sure of CCA, but it starts the 401 nailhead just fine. Not sure how long it will last.

Dynra Rockets

There is nothing wrong with a "remanufactured" lead acid car battery per se but realize what it is. Most are not actually remanufactured, you are typically buying a $15 used battery with a 1 year warranty with the convenience of picking it up a local retail store for $41.

While it is possible to refurnish a used-up car battery by washing out all the old lead bits and paste from the bottom of the case, zap it with AC to clean the scale off the plates and refill it with new acid, the cost to do so in most cases outweighs the price you can charge in the marketplace. The lead plates will then have about half the mass from new so they likely will not last a full year under warranty. It is not often done.

What these "remanufactured" batteries are typically are just good used batteries from junkyards that have been cleaned up with new decals. There are thousands of cars totaled every day in the US that have perfectly good batteries. Junk yards sell them to remanufacturers for $10 who clean them up to resell.

You can accomplish the same thing by taking a volt meter to a junk yard and buying a good used battery from them for $15. Is the convenience of not having to go to a junkyard and having a 1 year warranty worth the extra $26 (it is to me!).

A good 12v car battery is empty at 10.5v and a fully charged one is about 12.8v so anything over 10.5v means all cells are good, anything over 12v is a keeper.

.02
R

Richard Daugird

Meaning a year of daily use, or many years with infrequent use? Is it a usage thing or an elapsed time thing?

Dynra Rockets

The resellers assume daily use.

Yes, you can get longer life duration with inside storage away from heat, fewer discharge cycles from infrequent use, and keeping the voltage topped off with a trickle charger.

There is an old saying in the battery biz "batteries don't die, they are murdered" meaning primarily, as you say, a usage thing.

MISTERZ06

My 2 Cents 4 Long-Battery-Life
when not in use - i connect Battery-Tenders to all my toys

........................................ ...... tom

PRNDL

I just checked Walmart, EverStart Maxx Group Size 24 (recommended for my 68)
is $99.97 700CCA

I bought my last battery at Walmart. I wanted more than 700 CCA so I bought one that was only slightly larger but had more CCA. First problem I had when I got home was the terminals were mixed up! Never occurred to me that mattered. So I exchanged it for one with the terminals + / - reversed. Then I discovered that the very slight difference in size actually made a difference. With my battery cutoff switch on top I couldn't easily close the battery compartment door. Live and learn. The battery has been fine though.

pws69

True statement! I did some work in a "battery place" a while ago and I was stunned at the number of different brands that were just rolling off the same lines!!

gr8t73

I have to agree. I use to have to replace the battery in my 73 about every three years. I bought the current battery 6 years ago along with a battery tender and it is still going strong.