ernie3

I'm trying to finish up redoing the brakes and based on reviews here I also ordered a a Motive bleeder when I ordered my parts.

I'm confident I can get it to seal after I go buy another big C clamp, but once you get it bled where is the fluid in the tube supposed to go when the cover is removed since the MC is now over filled? How do you use it without spilling brake fluid?

Ernie

SteveG75

After you are done bleeding, release the pressure by loosening the pump handle. The excess brake fluid gets sucked back into the bleeder. You may have a little leakage when you remove the adapter but it is not much.

revitup

Fluid does not get sucked back into the tank when the pressure is removed from the tank, in my experience. After removing pressure, lower the tank as low as possible, looping the hose upward from the MC. Crack the nearest caliper bleeder until the fluid in the hose drains into the MC.

TimAT

I tried filling the Motive bleeder with fluid once. Found it's way less messy (and less hassle) to continually check the master cylinder and use the bleeder just for air pressure. Plus less waste of brake fluid and don't have to flush the bleeder with alcohol after I'm done.

RonR80

I bought one of these bleeders and prefer to do it gravity way , I never had luck with the seals to the master cyl .

Gordonm

I have now just made a plate of 1/4 steel with a thin rubber sheet for a gasket. Drilled and tapped for a air line fitting and I use a big C clamp to get a good seal. I let it bleed for about 20 seconds before I go back and fill the MC. Works every time with little or no mess. I tossed the Motive bleeder. I use about 15 pounds of air pressure.

Mr D.

Never had a problem using my Motive Bleeder, once I'm done I grab a large rag when removing the Motive Bleeder cap from the MC.

zwede

If the MC is overfull after using the motive bleeder you didn't get a good seal between MC and motive lid.

Think about it: Before attaching the lid you had an air pocket above the fluid. Now the bleeder pushes more fluid into the MC to replace the fluid leaving the MC. But the air pocket is still there, on top of the fluid.

When I'm done bleeding and remove the motive lid the fluid level is the same as it was before.

Key to a good seal is to wipe the rubber seal on the lid and then I smear some grease where it contacts the MC. I also use 2 C-clamps to get even pressure. I have their old steel lid so I can crank the c-clamps tight.

leadfoot4

DUB

That is the way that my pressure bleeder is. I have thick 1/4" plate that has an air line fitting made into it that I can attach the hose from my pressure bleeder. I have a contraption that has a chain on it that allows me to wrap it under and back up to a locking device and turn a thumb screw design threaded bolt that tighten the lid to the M/C. No leaks...even after 30 years of use.

And YES...IF I have the attachment sealed to the M/C..and have the fluid ...lets say 1/4" down from being full...when I am done bleeding the system the fluid did not raise higher. The only time it raises higher is IF the attachment is not sealed and it leaks....thus forcing out fluid and filling the M/C to the brim.

DUB

C3 4ME

I have never put fluid in my Motive Bleeder. Yes, you have to periodically check to make sure you don't run the MC dry, but I still think that's easier than cleaning the Motive Bleeder.

leadfoot4

DUB, it sounds like you have a bleeder similar to the "antique" that I have, sitting on the shelf, in the garage. It always worked well for me, too, except when it was time to disconnect the line between the tank and the m/c cover plate. I always wound up with 3-4 oz. of fluid running out of the hose, as I released the "quick disconnect fitting". That was the only reason I stopped using it..............

DUB

When I go to remove the hose from the M/C attachment...I ALWAYS release the air pressure in the bladder due to my pressure bleeder has a manual pressure release valve on the bottom of the tank.

DUB

leadfoot4

Good point. Mine has one too, but it's been so long since I used it (the last car I had, that had the cast iron, 2 pot master cylinder, was the '77 Trans Am I traded, to purchase my '01 Corvette), I don't remember if I bled the air from the bleeder ball first, or not...........

ernie3

I sent the Motive bleeder back and borrowed the schrader valve idea. The valve does have to be installed through the rubber gasket. Used my air shock pump from my Harley, works perfect.

New MC, booster, pressure switch, calipers. Did not realize how bad my brakes were before!

MaynardZed

Thats kind of how I use motive bleeder. Just for the positive pressure. You have to check/fill the reservoir after every corner, but a lot less messy.

leadfoot4

Reviving this thread......


I just had the camera out, so I dug out my "old" pressure bleeder. Maybe this is similar to the one that "DUB" uses.....

DUB

I have the EXACT CLONE to this pressure bleeder. I mean EXACTLY the same.

I would die if it stopped working for me.

I have another pressure bleeder that is a different design but does the same thing... for the DOT5 cars that I have to work in from time to time.

DUB

leadfoot4

I haven't used mine in quite some time. I pulled it out of the box, out in the garage, and was surprised how "dirty" it had gotten. I'm rather embarrassed by it's condition...

DUB

What it looks like on the outside means nothing....it is the condition of the area where the brake fluid goes is what matters.

Yeah..I must say mine looks a bit better...but HECK..I have been using it for over 30 years.

DUB