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I Hate Plastic Clutch Alignment Tools

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Old May 24, 2017 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
YES it can damage the input shaft tip... but it can disintegrate and the needles fail just like a U-joint can do as you can see.

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...s-bushing.html

DUB
Originally Posted by loup68
Thank you DUB, for the link and the information. Lou.
Make sure the bushing is non-magnetic bronze also.
Great info here on the forum.....
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Old May 25, 2017 | 06:16 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by loup68
Thank you DUB, for the link and the information. Lou.
My pleasure and I will let you and others decide if it worth while or not. I just put 'out there' what I consider to be important 'stuff' and hopefully others do also.

DUB
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Old May 25, 2017 | 08:01 PM
  #23  
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When I put a new ZZ4 into my car, I thought that the roller bearing was a better idea. Why does GM performance sell them then, I wonder. Lou.

Last edited by loup68; May 25, 2017 at 08:01 PM.
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Old May 26, 2017 | 06:48 PM
  #24  
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Resistance to change? I have had a pilot roller bearing in mine for several years and have had no issues.
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Old May 26, 2017 | 07:19 PM
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When someone says "hate", it's usually because they don't understand. For example when someone says they hate carbs or Fords, it's because they don't understand how they work.

Before you start to assemble your clutch, you need to make sure that your pilot bearing/bushing and clutch disc slide onto the input shaft smoothly and easily. If not, fix it now. When using the plastic clutch tool you have to realize that it is a somewhat loose fit. Lightly snug the pressure plate bolts until the clutch disc is being held by the plate, but will move when slight side force is applied.

Use your clutch tool and move it up and down, left and right while observing how close the tool gets to the pressure plate springs or forks. I'm going to call this slop an "orbit". Now use the clutch tool to move the clutch disc so it is in the center of the "orbit" you just observed. Remove the tool and torque your pressure plate to specs. I recommend using locktite and a torque wrench as these bolts aren't very big and if you break one you won't enjoy it. Install the tool and make sure it slides in nice and easy. Slightly lube the pilot bearing/bushing and clutch splines. If you overlube the pilot, it will hydraulically keep the pilot shaft out. While you guide the transmission in, make sure you keep the transmission aligned with the centerlinbe of the crankshaft both up and down and left and right.

When I was a tech I replaced hundreds of clutches. In the "old days" clutches didn't come with a clutch tool and if the parts store didn't have tool in stock I'd just use a 3/8 inch extension and use this method. It works, every time. Having a good jack and good lighting and experience also helps.
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Old May 27, 2017 | 11:01 AM
  #26  
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Plastic will work just fine if you take your time and do as other have mentioned above.

I've been using an old front shaft I remove from a transmission back in the 70's works great but you still have to "wiggle" and be sure it slides in/out smoothly.

Once you get clutch bolted/torqued transmission should slide in with no problem.

George





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