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My engine overhaul

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Old Jun 29, 2017 | 05:27 PM
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Default My engine overhaul

Well my old 327 started to sound bad and also started to run bad so had no choice but to take it apart in the middle of the driving season
So out with the engine and see what need to be changed
Started the teardown
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The first clue to why it started to sound like a boat...

On its way out
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In the stand
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Pistons out
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Bearings are toast
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Doesn't look so bad but it is
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Crank an cam out gonna change the cam also
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Old Jun 29, 2017 | 05:49 PM
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Also found that the clutch and flywheel was toast..
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Luckily I could get it machined also machined the crank to 0.20
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Needed to get the connecting rods bearing surface round again also
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Degreased and hot water pressure washed the entire block and gearbox
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Gearbox came out like new almost
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Started to paint the block and oilpan
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Started to paint more stuff
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Looking good
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Old Jun 29, 2017 | 06:00 PM
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you have a steel crank thats a bonus
what are you plans for this?
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Old Jun 29, 2017 | 06:11 PM
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Crank going back in, it's a forged one
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Gonna replace my old 461x heads with some never 492 heads that are pretty heavy ported and with new valves and guides
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Also gonna change to a performer rpm intake
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And some lunati roller rockers

Only put together to see how it looks
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Haven't got my cam yet so waiting on that one I started to paint the engine bay also

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Well thats where I'm at at the moment , hoping to get the last of the parts tomorrow or next week, wanna drive it!

Well the specs for engine and trans are
327 bored 0.30 to 331
9:5 compression
Forged crank
Comp Magnum camshaft
Crane antipump lifters
Ported 492 angle plug heads with 2.02 1.60 valves
Lunati roller rockers
Holley 650 dp
Edelbrock performer rpm intake
New hei distributor with mechanical tachometer
McLeod super street pro clutch
4 speed m21 gearbox

Gonna post as soon I have some progress, cheers

Last edited by stingraymaniac; Jul 3, 2017 at 09:39 AM.
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Old Jun 30, 2017 | 06:40 AM
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Is the flange of the transmission cracked?
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Old Jun 30, 2017 | 07:38 AM
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Yeah there are a bit missing in the bottom, some previous owner have run into something.
It has been so for the past 15 years I have owned it, works fine but looks alittle ugly
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Old Jun 30, 2017 | 02:06 PM
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Wow, in just a few minutes of reading and scrolling thru the thread it's about done! Kind of like those home improvement shows that they renovate a house in 30 minutes.

What was the reason for removing the engine as a short block in lieu of keeping it together?

Nice work, now go finish it!
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Old Jun 30, 2017 | 08:55 PM
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It started as a check of the heads and headgasket, but when I had those out I figured when I was at it to remove the whole engine and gearbox to check everything...
Now I'm hoping my clutch and camshaft comes in on Monday so i can continue putting it back together
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 01:46 AM
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Did you have the block and heads checked for cracks, have the oil galleries cleaned out, and/or have any machining done to the block or heads? Freeze plugs replaced?

If the first photos showed the condition of the 'removed' bearings, they looked pretty darned good. Not sure why the engine was "tired", other than the badly slipping clutch.

Last edited by 7T1vette; Jul 1, 2017 at 01:49 AM.
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 01:29 PM
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The engine was hot water pressure washed everywhere, oilgalleries, all the water channels, I have bought newer completely renovated 492 angle plug heads, wery ported, looks great
It looked better in the pictures I needed to machine the crank and polish all the bearing surfaces..

Last edited by stingraymaniac; Jul 1, 2017 at 06:27 PM.
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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 05:26 PM
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Old Jul 4, 2017 | 03:10 PM
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Well got the new camshaft today and went to the garage happy, but that didn't last long..
All went well with the cam install but then I torqued down the crank, and it's stuck, can't move it, at 35 ft it spins but at 70 it's stuck..
Starting to think that the machine shop has done something wrong..
Or gave me wrong bearings, going there tomorrow!
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Last edited by stingraymaniac; Jul 4, 2017 at 03:14 PM.
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Old Jul 4, 2017 | 07:13 PM
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Did you mic the crank and check your bearing clearances?
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Old Jul 5, 2017 | 01:42 AM
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Mic the bearings too. Super easy to get the wrong ones after you had the crank ground and the connecting rods resized too. Plastgage would be a quick test to tell you if that's the issue.
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Old Jul 5, 2017 | 12:12 PM
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I got the bearings from the guy at the shop, I have the shortblock there now and gonna see what he finds
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Old Jul 5, 2017 | 08:37 PM
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Fair enough. I'd always mic the crank, then use a dial bore gauge to check clearances, and then sanity check with plastigauge. I mixed and matched .000 and +.001 shells to get my clearances where I wanted them.

Last edited by Metalhead140; Jul 5, 2017 at 08:39 PM.
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Old Jul 5, 2017 | 09:32 PM
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Bummer about you main bearings, you're doing an awesome job, those 327's are smooth and can rev. Great pictures. And tell everyone you got a 332, it's ok to round up from 331.6 cu. in. Also I was wondering, didn't Corvette 327's come with 4 bolt mains. Anyway, when I built my engine, a made an engine stand from 2 x 4's and fired it up on the stand. I checked for oil leaks and broke in the cam before dropping it in the car. That way there will be no surprises. I just ran a garden hose into the thermostat housing.
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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 06:11 AM
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Thanks!
yeah I like the old 327s
The bearings are fixed now
Turns smooth as butter
The machine shop had done alittle bigger radius on the machined surface so the bearings got stuck there, he fixed it and put the whole bottom end together for free
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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 06:14 AM
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I think it's from 66-67 they started with 4bolt mains mine is a 63 so 2 bolt but it's gonna be fine with my power, hoping around 400 at 6500rpms
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Old Jul 6, 2017 | 07:43 AM
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Glad it's sorted.
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