Is there a trick to installing the 2 screws that fasten the door pull within the door panel to the door? The panels were on the car when I bought it but the 2 screws that go into the door's "finger pull" were not in place. If I do not attach these 2 screws, there is a gap at the top of the door between the glass weatherstrip and the door panel.

Thanks for any advice.

Dan

 

If you have the 'late' 68 door pulls (like the following years), then there is a bit of a trick to getting the screws lined up with the hole in the metal door panel behind.

Stick the door pull in place and then stick an ice pick or thin Phillips screwdriver shank down into that pull and into the hole for the screw. Now, you can eyeball the angle that screw will need to take to get it started into the hole. I fiddled for quite some time, the first time I dealt with that issue, before I went for the ice pick. No problem, once I saw what angle it had to take.

 

Thanks for the reply. I tried that without much success. The problem stemmed from the fact the holes drilled into the plastic door pulls don't align with the jclips in the door. I measured the distance between the clips in the door and they are more narrow than the holes in the door panel plastic hand pull. So, I think I will need to drill new holes...
But, knowing that the icepick approach is what others have used, I will give it another try. Did you fasten all the other screws in the door panel first?

 

Yes.

 

Thanks again for your reply. Do you recall how long the screws were that you used?

 

Hi Dan,
Here's the 1" screw from a 69 up door pull.
I don't know if or how it applies to your pull.
I'd think the length needed would depend on just where on the panel the pull is located.
Regards,
Alan

Note this screw has a 'slit' that makes it a thread 'cutting' tip.

 

The rubber add on 68 door pull is actually a 67-68 Camaro door pull. I love my hidden original door pull. Lou.

 

The first '68 door pull was 'hidden' also. It just didn't exist! No way could you use it to pull the door closed; you had to use your right hand to grab it, in order to close the driver's door.

 

 

I love the look on passenger faces when they look to close the door on my 68. It's not exactly intuitive. And by the way Alan, is that a 'before' picture? I see rust on the end of that bolt.

 

Hi N,
I like to refer to that as a 'blush' rather than 'rust'!!!
Regards,
Alan

 

Charley, You turn your left hand palm up and put your finger tips into the black plastic door pull slot, to close the door. Lou.

 

Thank you all for the insight and help.
I have 1 of the 2 screws for the finger grip installed on the passenger door. I used the icepick and cursing method suggested, (well, 7T1vette suggested the icepick, I added the cursing). Even with the finger grip screw installed and the other panel screws in place, I have a large gap between the door panel and the window weatherstrip rubber. The top Velcro type fasteners aren't even touching. How much of a gap should there be? Any suggestions on how to reduce or eliminate the gap?

 

Is this a 'new' [aftermarket] door panel, or an original that has been sitting alone for a long time? Door panels can become warped, if they are not installed. If original panel, you need to put a dampened towel on the fiberboard side and lay it horizontally in a manner that will allow the panel to droop back into normal position. You need some 'stops' placed under the panel so that when it gets back to desired state, the stops will prevent further drooping. And, if you need, you can put some small amount of weight on the top to help it along. Just don't overdo the weights; it needs some time to soften the fiber backing (from the damp towel) and slowly go back into position.

Once back into shape, remove the damp towel and let it dry thoroughly in final position.

If you have a new foam-core panel, use the weights and stops approach, but put it all out in the sun so it can warm and soften somewhat. When back into shape, set it up again in a shaded area so that it can cool while back in desired shape.
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loup... When I distorted my left arm/hand that way, my fingers were above where they could reach under that "pull" and actually close the door. That method didn't work for me. So, I had to pull the door closed most of the way, then switch to the right hand to pull it closed. I'm still baffled that GM and Chevy Engineering allowed that design to actually make it into production. It had to have been someone very high up who decreed that the '68 door should NOT have a door pull sticking out from it.

 

It is an aftermarket, foam-core panel. I will try laying it in the sun and seeing if there is any discernable change in the panel. Have you tried this approach? Have you ever tried a hairdryer or heat gun to speed up the process?

 

I don't have any aftermarket panels. But, that method has been used with success from other Forum folks. I don't think I would use a hair dryer. It can get too hot and damage the panel, if not careful; sun will do fine by itself. BUT, you do need to use the 'weights/stops' approach so that you limit changes to the panel.

 

As others have suggested, the trick to installing the door pulls on an aftermarket panel is to use a pick. You need to take enough foam backing out of the mounting hole first (use a pair of needle nosed pliers and slowly rip it out). Then, line up the panel and use the pick to locate the hole. You should remove enough foam so the hole is actually visible. I prefer to start the lower screw first and then move the upper part of the handle into position. The upper screw mount is more flexible and easier to manipulate so it's easier to start the lower screw first. Also, setting the panels out in the sun makes them much more flexible during the install.

 

Neil is so right about this approach. This is exactly what I did with mine except I went a little further than just the sun. I used a nice heat gun in the sun to raise the temp of the ABS to 208-210 Deg F measured with a laser temp gun. What a HUGE difference this made with the panel install. That baby formed so nicely it was like a custom contour just for my car. As far as the screw goes I found it very critical to get the angle of attack on it correct otherwise its maddening to say the least.

 

Charley, If you look at the unique, one year only, 68 interior there is a character line flowing across the dash to the upper door panels and it circles around the back window trim.
I am sorry that you had so much trouble closing the door on your 68. Are you very tall, or have broad shoulders? Lou.

 

loup...

I do understand what you are saying. But, I worked for GM for 40 years and I've seen 'up close and personal' the mindset that is applied in these situations. Yes, it is a smoother "design" look to continue the lines of the dash and to NOT have a door pull. But, when it gets past the design stage and into how that design will affect the customer, it is almost unimaginable that a door pull wasn't installed. There were a LOT of beautiful concept designs built by GM Styling and great mock-up cars of the future which people ogled over. But, many of those neat ideas never made it to production...because they just weren't practical. No 'real' door pull on the '68 C3 was certainly not practical. And, that ERROR was corrected in the middle of the model year; changing styling in the middle of a car's model year was almost NEVER done--unless it was a major oversight or a big screw-up.