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1973 eckler model help

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Old 10-12-2017, 08:12 AM
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leadfoot4
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Originally Posted by The13Bats
Let face it even if rust isnt too bad it will have a long list of little things like brakes that will have to be brought up to par....




But, it looks SO damned cool, and also looks like the previous owner(s) have already spent some serious money on it. If it were me, I'd give the frame and birdcage a real good going over, and if they look solid, it might be time to pull the trigger and make an offer.....
Old 10-12-2017, 02:20 PM
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Wide body cars are always a hard car to put a price on, when they come up for sale they usually seem over priced and stay on the market for a long tine. That being said they have a committed following that really likes them. The Eckler's family still has 3 of the cars that graced the catalog covers for years. There are quite a few of those cars running around this area.
Mark
Old 10-12-2017, 04:55 PM
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The13Bats
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Originally Posted by mark6669
Wide body cars are always a hard car to put a price on, when they come up for sale they usually seem over priced and stay on the market for a long tine. That being said they have a committed following that really likes them. The Eckler's family still has 3 of the cars that graced the catalog covers for years. There are quite a few of those cars running around this area.
Mark
Kind of like with any custom,
Price is based on condition, what it is and how bad a buyer wants it,

Wide bodies are not rare,

Eckler went through different wide body versions,

The one on this threads car apoears to be the can am 2,

To me the best looking,

Note the front and rear bumpers take on a popular at the time 74 look,

I really dig the one which keep the 68 to 72 front abd rear chrome

My issue is when they pop up for sale sometimes rarely the price is good and they sell,

I almost bought one at a bodyshop down the road from ecklers, its been 3 or 4 years, it was a black convertible, looked close to the car in this thread, bb 4 speed ran good, fresh, no rust, 12500,

Sadly though i have seen most times the owners get into some weird altered state of reality,

First hand the 68 i helped a lady sell, no title basketcase, but it was a 435 68 4 speed convertible 7500,

Now the owner, a buddy is convinced its a half million dollar race car, its not.

On florida cl,

https://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/cto/6323276225.html

See how many things you can find wrong in this ad, starting with price,

But sadly perhaps these owners truely believe what they say,

In dec my funds happen, i might be in the market for a car like in this thread,
Rust scares me, very much so who knows,
Old 10-12-2017, 06:13 PM
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Lord Repasi
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The one I'm looking at is listed for 7500, I find that kind of high considering all the work that has to be done, would 3,500 be asking too low for it? Or would that be about what it is worth
Old 10-12-2017, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Lord Repasi
The one I'm looking at is listed for 7500, I find that kind of high considering all the work that has to be done, would 3,500 be asking too low for it? Or would that be about what it is worth
Have you been able to take a close look at it, especially the undercarriage? You need to have a solid knowledge of the car's current condition, before making an offer. If the frame, and/or birdcage are bad, then even $3500 would be too much, unless you had another frame to roll underneath that swoopy looking body.

The other thing to look at, for rust, is the fuel and brake lines. Not trying to scare you, as replacements are readily available, and relatively easy to replace, but it's something to use as a bargaining chip.
Old 10-12-2017, 06:23 PM
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Lord Repasi
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Have you been able to take a close look at it, especially the undercarriage? You need to have a solid knowledge of the car's current condition, before making an offer. If the frame, and/or birdcage are bad, then even $3500 would be too much, unless you had another frame to roll underneath that swoopy looking body.

The other thing to look at, for rust, is the fuel and brake lines. Not trying to scare you, as replacements are readily available, and relatively easy to replace, but it's something to use as a bargaining chip.
I'm planning on lookin at it later this week, the guy had it for two months before which raises a red flag for me, if there is rust on it is there a way to fix it?
Old 10-12-2017, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Lord Repasi
I'm planning on lookin at it later this week, the guy had it for two months before which raises a red flag for me, if there is rust on it is there a way to fix it?
The most difficult rust problem to deal with, on a C-3, is the "birdcage". On a coupe, it's more involved, as the roof strut and "B" pillar are part of it, whereas on a 'vert, it's limited to the cowl, part of the firewall, and the windshield frame. I say that this is the most difficult issue to deal with, since it forms the "backbone" of the car's body, and the forward body panels are bonded directly to it. Therefore, you can't simply "throw in another one", if you have rust issues.

Frame rust, is another issue. While somewhat drastic, another frame CAN be slid underneath the body, if the car has a rotten frame. And if money isn't a huge issue, technologically better frames are now available, to replace the original C-3 chassis, which could yield a WICKED street rod.

It basically boils down to A) your mechanical skills; B) your patience level; C) your access to shop space/tools; D) your "financial skills"; E) the final condition/price of the car.


Good luck!
Old 10-12-2017, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
The most difficult rust problem to deal with, on a C-3, is the "birdcage". On a coupe, it's more involved, as the roof strut and "B" pillar are part of it, whereas on a 'vert, it's limited to the cowl, part of the firewall, and the windshield frame. I say that this is the most difficult issue to deal with, since it forms the "backbone" of the car's body, and the forward body panels are bonded directly to it. Therefore, you can't simply "throw in another one", if you have rust issues.

Frame rust, is another issue. While somewhat drastic, another frame CAN be slid underneath the body, if the car has a rotten frame. And if money isn't a huge issue, technologically better frames are now available, to replace the original C-3 chassis, which could yield a WICKED street rod.

It basically boils down to A) your mechanical skills; B) your patience level; C) your access to shop space/tools; D) your "financial skills"; E) the final condition/price of the car.


Good luck!
thank you!! I'm still in m teens so my financial situation isn't great at the moment, what you said about the frame might really impact my decision, do you have any tips that could get me the lowest price possible?
Old 10-12-2017, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Lord Repasi
thank you!! I'm still in my teens so my financial situation isn't great at the moment, what you said about the frame might really impact my decision, do you have any tips that could get me the lowest price possible?
Oh boy.......

Let me take a step back, then, and ask an important question. Are you looking for something to use as a daily driver, or a project car/weekend cruiser? If you're looking for a driver, I'd strongly suggest looking elsewhere.

I'm 65 years of age, and retired. I have acquired a LOT of automotive knowledge/skills, over the years, and I think that I MIGHT be able to work through a car like that, and make a reasonable driver out of it. I have the time to work on a project like that. The real issue I'd have is work space and finding some help, when a task needs an extra hand or two.

However, as what might be your "first automotive adventure", you might be getting into a monumental task, unless you have an experienced friend or two, to help you out.

For what it's worth, though, I think that car looks really cool!!
Old 10-12-2017, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Oh boy.......

Let me take a step back, then, and ask an important question. Are you looking for something to use as a daily driver, or a project car/weekend cruiser? If you're looking for a driver, I'd strongly suggest looking elsewhere.

I'm 65 years of age, and retired. I have acquired a LOT of automotive knowledge/skills, over the years, and I think that I MIGHT be able to work through a car like that, and make a reasonable driver out of it. I have the time to work on a project like that. The real issue I'd have is work space and finding some help, when a task needs an extra hand or two.

However, as what might be your "first automotive adventure", you might be getting into a monumental task, unless you have an experienced friend or two, to help you out.

For what it's worth, though, I think that car looks really cool!!
im more skilled than most when it comes to cars and engines and stuff like that, this is my first car that I'm doing but not my first vehicle, all that I think needs to be done to run is the carbs and that isn't that difficult, I'm only planning on this being a weekend driver/project car
Old 10-12-2017, 06:59 PM
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Lead foot is on the money,

Anything we say without through inspection by savvy corvette eyes is pure speculation,

the simple fact is a c3 can look like a show car in pictures perhaps in person yet have so much rust hiding its not worth 350.00 unless to part out,

On the other hand, if the frame and birdcage are exceptionally nice 7500 is a good price "IF" a person wants a widebody,

The rub is unless a c3 is super well mantained, fresh restored or both it has rust, ads that say "30 yo barn find rust free" crack me up,

Physics prove bare metal even some treated metal rusts, the decider is how much rust is too much,
Old 10-12-2017, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Lord Repasi
The one I'm looking at is listed for 7500, I find that kind of high considering all the work that has to be done, would 3,500 be asking too low for it? Or would that be about what it is worth
So much of this depends on if you are building a car that you plan on keeping and making it your own or if you are planning on having fun with it and then selling it and worried about how much you can make off of it.

If you make an offer and it is refused...then it is what it is. All you can do it try. Knowing that this car is not the normal Corvette you see going down the road every day...if it is what you WANT due to its uniqueness....then get it after you look into it bit further.

DUB
Old 10-12-2017, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
So much of this depends on if you are building a car that you plan on keeping and making it your own or if you are planning on having fun with it and then selling it and worried about how much you can make off of it.

If you make an offer and it is refused...then it is what it is. All you can do it try. Knowing that this car is not the normal Corvette you see going down the road every day...if it is what you WANT due to its uniqueness....then get it after you look into it bit further.

DUB
i really really want this to be my own car, if that makes a difference
Old 10-12-2017, 08:27 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Lord Repasi
thank you!! I'm still in m teens so my financial situation isn't great at the moment, what you said about the frame might really impact my decision, do you have any tips that could get me the lowest price possible?




Show the seller this thread.

Forget history, I feel the car is worth perhaps 3-3500 if its structurally sound and it has a clean title. All he can do is say no. Good luck.
Old 10-12-2017, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by John 65


Show the seller this thread.

Forget history, I feel the car is worth perhaps 3-3500 if its structurally sound and it has a clean title. All he can do is say no. Good luck.
If anyone knows of a structural sound convertible wide body pre 75 , clean title and in otherwise comparable condition to this car for 3 to 3500 please turn me on to it and if its up to par and i buy it i will pay a good finders fee,
Old 10-12-2017, 08:56 PM
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How much do y'all think it would cost to get the carbs rebuilt? That's the only thing keeping it from running at the moment
Old 10-12-2017, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Lord Repasi
How much do y'all think it would cost to get the carbs rebuilt? That's the only thing keeping it from running at the moment
Looks like one carb,
A big holley or clone, so the price of a rebuild kit or very worse 300 up for a whole new carb

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Old 10-12-2017, 09:12 PM
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Just my 2 cents Bats. If I was a custom guy and absolutely HAD to have it, perhaps a higher offer.

I cant believe I'm saying this but I actually kind of like it.
Old 10-12-2017, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by John 65
Just my 2 cents Bats. If I was a custom guy and absolutely HAD to have it, perhaps a higher offer.

I cant believe I'm saying this but I actually kind of like it.
i fell in love with the car when I saw it, what it the high side that I should be willing to accept
Old 10-12-2017, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by The13Bats
If anyone knows of a structural sound convertible wide body pre 75 , clean title and in otherwise comparable condition to this car for 3 to 3500 please turn me on to it and if its up to par and i buy it i will pay a good finders fee,
Lol Bats! Isnt that how all of these "whats it worth threads" start. New guy, "Hey, how much for this car?" It aint worth a plugged nickel! Says the forum. You can buy em for a dime a dozen! Me, Yeah? show me!
Good luck Bats, I believe you know what youre talking about with these customs.

For the o.p. Fwiw, I have no idea on its value. But the one thing I do know, if it has rust in all the wrong places, its garbage! Read that sticky thread about buying your first C3, then look at pictures of someone elses buying mistakes. Its just a damn shame!


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