Head light door question
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Head light door question
Hi, this may have been addressed but I can not find it. I need to raise the head light bucket on the passenger side. I located the adjusting screw and moved it until there is about 1/8" between the bumper and screw head. Headlight is still too low about 1/4 lower than front valance. What else could be keeping the head light from raising correctly? Could this be due to vacuum motor actuator rod missadjusted?
Thanks
Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Hi, this may have been addressed but I can not find it. I need to raise the head light bucket on the passenger side. I located the adjusting screw and moved it until there is about 1/8" between the bumper and screw head. Headlight is still too low about 1/4 lower than front valance. What else could be keeping the head light from raising correctly? Could this be due to vacuum motor actuator rod missadjusted?
Thanks
Thanks
Because what you wrote can be read that the door is down and you need to raise it to be flush.
IF you have to your door UP and need it to go up more....then you have to disconnect the rod from the actuator vacuum pod and there are three bolts that hold the plate onto the actuator support. And the reason you disconnect the rod is one of these bolts is hard to get to IF it is connected. Loosen those three bolts and it can allow you to move that bracket so the door will go up more.
Now this is assuming that the body around the headlight openings and the support beam are correct. And that you do have the correct actuator pod in place due the the shafts on some models are longer.
And YES...the eyelet on the end of the rod may need to be adjusted....but seeing how I am not there I can not say where to start first..
DUB
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
...but that also depends on what it is like when the door is closed.By extending the eyelet out further (depends on how much)...you are lengthening the actuator rod....and when the door goes back down...teh diaphragm inside the pod can bottom out....which will cause the three bolts are loosened and the bracket is re-adjusted.
Moving/adjusting that bracket does not take much to make a huge difference.
DUB
Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 279
Likes: 14
From: New Britain Connecticut
mine were like that when I bought my car also, the dash light would stay on when the headlights were up. Dumb me, I thought the dash light was supposed to stay on.I just posted this here for you to take a look, incase you want to do yours over.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...or-ever-i.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...or-ever-i.html
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
I have to assume...because you are leavign what you wrote open to interpretation. I am guessing that you already have the headlight door UP and need it to go UP more???
Because what you wrote can be read that the door is down and you need to raise it to be flush.
IF you have to your door UP and need it to go up more....then you have to disconnect the rod from the actuator vacuum pod and there are three bolts that hold the plate onto the actuator support. And the reason you disconnect the rod is one of these bolts is hard to get to IF it is connected. Loosen those three bolts and it can allow you to move that bracket so the door will go up more.
Now this is assuming that the body around the headlight openings and the support beam are correct. And that you do have the correct actuator pod in place due the the shafts on some models are longer.
And YES...the eyelet on the end of the rod may need to be adjusted....but seeing how I am not there I can not say where to start first..
DUB
Because what you wrote can be read that the door is down and you need to raise it to be flush.
IF you have to your door UP and need it to go up more....then you have to disconnect the rod from the actuator vacuum pod and there are three bolts that hold the plate onto the actuator support. And the reason you disconnect the rod is one of these bolts is hard to get to IF it is connected. Loosen those three bolts and it can allow you to move that bracket so the door will go up more.
Now this is assuming that the body around the headlight openings and the support beam are correct. And that you do have the correct actuator pod in place due the the shafts on some models are longer.
And YES...the eyelet on the end of the rod may need to be adjusted....but seeing how I am not there I can not say where to start first..
DUB
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
...but that also depends on what it is like when the door is closed.By extending the eyelet out further (depends on how much)...you are lengthening the actuator rod....and when the door goes back down...teh diaphragm inside the pod can bottom out....which will cause the three bolts are loosened and the bracket is re-adjusted.
Moving/adjusting that bracket does not take much to make a huge difference.
DUB
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
mine were like that when I bought my car also, the dash light would stay on when the headlights were up. Dumb me, I thought the dash light was supposed to stay on.I just posted this here for you to take a look, incase you want to do yours over.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...or-ever-i.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...or-ever-i.html
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Racer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 279
Likes: 14
From: New Britain Connecticut
you do have to mess with them a bit to get everything lined up
Last edited by steffan; Dec 7, 2017 at 05:32 PM. Reason: add info
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 12
Likes: 0