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I know how much parts can go for. But that is if those parts are usable I highly doubt those high dollar items are usable
Why would those parts be unusable. Those parts are all rebuildable. i listed core prices. Alternator will not rust, just be dirty and easily rebuildable, as well as with just about all those parts. The intake manifold could be ruined, cracked or have stripped threads but even those can be repaired, and look like new. It would just depend on if that cost is under what the selling price is. Same with the carbs. As long as the critical numbered part is good.
The block could be cracked and therefore garbage. But there are so many other parts that are unlikely to have any damage other than dirt. I only listed some.
If it has a correct original fuel pump that core could be a few hundred.
The fan shroud is anther great piece that doesn't rust and could very well be in good shape since it looks like the original radiator is in place. If that has no cracks then that could be another 300-400 or more.
For an investment in time this could be turned into a profit for someone into doing that. This would have been a good car for someone that had a 435 and needed parts to restore ANOTHER car.
I hope we get updates. Depending on when this car was made I would be into getting some of the parts off of it if original and for sale.
The selling price was not cheap, too high for me as I would have only wanted some parts and just don't feel like cleaning and selling (have enough garbage to go through as it is) but not too over the top.
Sometime it's just the fact that the car holds sometime of value once you break it down. Since you have plans to strip and part out, the idea of all the parts laying on the ground cleaned up, numbers matching, I am sure you will get sooner or later get your money back. And the best part is that there will be a whole bunch of corvette owners looking for parts, that will be glad you did it instead of this thing getting crushed at a recycling joint.
The only part ever at risk of going to the crusher is the frame itself. Even a shot plain Jane 79 is gonna be torn down and parted out. PLUS the crusher won't take it. It is only half metal by weight. You have to take it the dump and pay 100 bucks or so a ton to leave it there.
engine has coolant in it oil pan is rusted and leaking but has oil in it no water ,it is a matching # 435 march 1969 , what can you do for a new vin # plate anything or is it just all parts now.
Hi mdzi,
Is there a title for the car? A clear title history?
I'd think there is since it was registered (or at least had plates) showing 2012.
Would you be registering it in Md.?
What do you mean by "side frame"... are you referring to the windshield frame, the a-pillar?
Have you been able to check to see if either of the stamps on the left side frame rail are decipherable? The rear stamp can sometimes be seen using a mirror. It's typically just forward of the #4 body mount
Regards,
Alan
Where are you and the car? I assume fairly near the Baltimore area where car was sold? And you have it out of there and put away? If block is cracked, don't scrap it. I have a bunch of lock n stitch stuff. I am going to take a shot at a badly cracked 502 I picked up for the price of the crank and heads. BTW, MDonzi. Boat guy? I have 24 Pantera one of my big blocks is going in, eventually...
vin is gone on the side frame engine has coolant in it oil pan is rusted and leaking but has oil in it no water ,it is a matching # 435 march 1969 , what can you do for a new vin # plate anything or is it just all parts now.
How can it be numbers matching if the vin is going. What do you have to match it too
I know this sounds crazy, but how are the set rails and seat frames?
I am just dying to know if they are good because I would really like to update the other thread about them. Some are of the opinion they are competely rusted and not usable. I think they should be fine.
Just curious if I'm right (someone who never parted a whole car) or they are right (someone who parted out 500 cars)
Last edited by ed427vette; Dec 20, 2017 at 07:19 PM.
engine has coolant in it oil pan is rusted and leaking but has oil in it no water ,it is a matching # 435 march 1969 , what can you do for a new vin # plate anything or is it just all parts now.
Most states DMV division will issue a new VIN # and ID plate with a different number for title/reg purposes. As far as numbers matching it would be stretch to even make that case in a sale once basically everything is replaced or swapped to another car.
...Most states DMV division will issue a new VIN # and ID plate with a different number for title/reg purposes...
True but there is usually a specific procedure involving law enforcement which has to be followed before a state VIN is issued. Best practice is to check with the DMV before getting too far along with a purchase.
True but there is usually a specific procedure involving law enforcement which has to be followed before a state VIN is issued. Best practice is to check with the DMV before getting too far along with a purchase.
Also, I have seen Corvettes (and some other cars) with state issued VIN tags. That will make potential buyers uneasy. It has a very direct negative affect on value, if that is a concern.
How can it be numbers matching if the vin is going. What do you have to match it too
If it winds up with a state issued VIN, I don't see how it can be numbers matching. Seems to be quite a stretch of the term. Good chance it will need a new frame. In that case, there wouldn't be much to tie that engine to a particular vehicle.
I'm gonna raise this up in hopes for some updates on this, have you found a marker or plate tying to the VIN? Have you gotten her cleaned up a bit to see what is salvageable, or to see exactly how bad everything is? Really wanting to know what's happening with this.
If it winds up with a state issued VIN, I don't see how it can be numbers matching. Seems to be quite a stretch of the term. Good chance it will need a new frame. In that case, there wouldn't be much to tie that engine to a particular vehicle.
