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Old Dec 18, 2017 | 02:37 PM
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Default Four Wheel Alignment Question

I just had the four wheel alignment completed today and all four wheels balanced and I wanted to get opinions on the alignment readings. The reason being is the car goes down the road fine no shimmy or shake at speeds as high as 85 but the steering is slow to return to center when making a right or left hand turn. These are the things I have done to try and rectify the problem: Steering Box rebuilt by Gary Remadei / New Power Steering Valve / New Power Steering Ram / Rebuilt Power Steering Pump / New Rag Joint. Not sure where to go from here.
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Last edited by gr8t73; Dec 18, 2017 at 02:40 PM.
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Old Dec 18, 2017 | 02:47 PM
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More caster. +2.4 is not a lot. Try for 4.5-5.5 equal, which is about the max you can get.

Last edited by Dynra Rockets; Dec 18, 2017 at 02:47 PM.
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Old Dec 18, 2017 | 05:36 PM
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Maybe get front camber closer to 0? That positive camber doesn't seem right.
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Old Dec 18, 2017 | 09:44 PM
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Personally I would go to old school place
that uses slide plates for the rear !backed on
And similarly front done normally!
Look for performance specs and
Decide between tire life and handling!
Tell the guy what it is doing and what you want!
Good luck
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Old Dec 19, 2017 | 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Dynra Rockets
More caster. +2.4 is not a lot. Try for 4.5-5.5 equal, which is about the max you can get.
Agree. Return to center is mostly affected by caster.
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Old Dec 19, 2017 | 05:20 AM
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Changing your caster will not affect your alignment. You take out a shim and you put it on the other stud. If you change the number shims used that affects both camber and caster, then you need another alignment. T
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Old Dec 19, 2017 | 05:46 AM
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wow you certainly picked all the expensive bits to replace ...

Has the car always done it ? have you had it long ? did you change anything to make this problem start ?

tight ball joints or tie rod ends , loose front wheel bearings all have the ability to stop or hinder the wheel straightening out . I fought that battle for ages when I put a CTO rack,n,pinion in .

If you go around the corner at speed does it return a bit then , kinda like the faster your moving the more return you have ?

Last edited by bazza77; Dec 19, 2017 at 05:53 AM.
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Old Dec 20, 2017 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by bazza77
wow you certainly picked all the expensive bits to replace ...

Has the car always done it ? have you had it long ? did you change anything to make this problem start ?

tight ball joints or tie rod ends , loose front wheel bearings all have the ability to stop or hinder the wheel straightening out . I fought that battle for ages when I put a CTO rack,n,pinion in .

If you go around the corner at speed does it return a bit then , kinda like the faster your moving the more return you have ?
Bazza77 in response to your questions:
I bought the car and did a frame off restoration. I never drove the car prior to starting the restoration so the answer is yes it has done it from day one since I completed the frame off resto.

I have had the car for 15 years and completed the frame off resto three years after I bought it so I have been driving about 12 years and have put about 12,000 miles on it since restoration. Tie rod ends, ball joints, idler arm, wheel bearings etcetera have all been checked and are in good condition with no binding.

It is slow to return to center whether at speed or moving slowly it's about the same. Slow enough that I have to manually correct it.

Based on all the other posts I am considering adding additional camber. Any as it seems to be the only thing left to do.
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Old Dec 20, 2017 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by gr8t73

based on all the other posts i am considering adding additional camber. Any as it seems to be the only thing left to do.
caster
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Old Feb 10, 2018 | 05:11 PM
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OK guys I appreciate all the input. I am having the care realigned on Monday these are the specs. I am going to give the technician based on all the comments. Additional Comments welcome.

Camber: 0 to 1 Degree Negative
Caster: 4.5 to 5.0 Degree Positive
Toe: 1/32"
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Old Feb 10, 2018 | 05:47 PM
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Doubt you'll get that much caster with stock upper control arms. Just ask the tech to give it as much caster as possible.
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Old Feb 10, 2018 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by terrys6t8roadster
Changing your caster will not affect your alignment. You take out a shim and you put it on the other stud. If you change the number shims used that affects both camber and caster, then you need another alignment. T
To this, I would add that any shims you move be the same size on both sides. If your shop wants to charge you more than an half an hour, you are at the wrong place.
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 08:14 AM
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it is also possible it returns slow cuz everything is new and tight. old loose stuff has less resistance...
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by zwede
Doubt you'll get that much caster with stock upper control arms. Just ask the tech to give it as much caster as possible.
I have the SPC adjustable control arms pictured below. With these I would hope I could get very close to 5 degrees
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by gr8t73
I have the SPC adjustable control arms pictured below. With these I would hope I could get very close to 5 degrees
One would think.
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by gr8t73
I have the SPC adjustable control arms pictured below. With these I would hope I could get very close to 5 degrees
That might have been nice to know in the first place! I have those arms. If you turn the arms equally + and - on both sides you can adjust the caster in a manner equivalent to swapping the shims. To do that properly you need to mark the six sides so you don't lose track of your adjustments.

Really this is the kind of job you should learn how to do yourself. A lot of posts on here about do it yourself alignments.
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Old Feb 11, 2018 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by derekderek
it is also possible it returns slow cuz everything is new and tight. old loose stuff has less resistance...
annnnndd........it could have fatties on the rims/more drag returning to center.
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Old Feb 12, 2018 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
annnnndd........it could have fatties on the rims/more drag returning to center.
No fatties
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Old Feb 12, 2018 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ignatz
That might have been nice to know in the first place! I have those arms. If you turn the arms equally + and - on both sides you can adjust the caster in a manner equivalent to swapping the shims. To do that properly you need to mark the six sides so you don't lose track of your adjustments.

Really this is the kind of job you should learn how to do yourself. A lot of posts on here about do it yourself alignments.
You're right I should have stated in original post. I sure I could have done it myself based on your information but it's in the shop now so hopefully they get it right and my problem goes away. Thanks for your input.
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Old Feb 12, 2018 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by gr8t73
I have the SPC adjustable control arms pictured below. With these I would hope I could get very close to 5 degrees
No problem getting 5 degrees then. Make sure they do the adjustment on the control arm itself and leave approx the same number of shims on each side.
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