I may not be the best mechanic in the world but I do not understand why an old unused spark plug wire ended up pinched between the engine mount.

I know it's hard to see.

I just bought this 1979 Corvette a couple weeks ago and noticed this. LOL

 

The plug wires feed through the mounts normally. A little testy to do, probably rerouted when replaced.

 

I will have to look underneath the car. Appears they just cut the old ones. LOL

 

On cylinders 1 & 3 and 2 & 4, the stock wires go into the boomerang and pass through the motor mount.

Are you planning on changing your wires?

 

Hi,
I believe the easiest way to feed the spark plug wires through the openings in the engine mounts is to start at the PLUG and feed the distributor BOOT down through the opening, then into the boomerang heat shield, and on to the distributor.
Regards,
Alan

 

I believe the easiest way is to fit headers and run the plug leads down from the top...

 

Amen! Summit Racing sells a nice kit that helps to make it all look neat too! I just ordered them for my 383 as I was not going back to the way the wires were!

https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...-638/overview/

 

That works with aftermarket headers but if you still have the ram horns on the car you need to route the way the manufacturer recommends.

Jack

 

I went with headers and fed the wires just like the factory did!

 

And then you can throw the boomerangs for the dog to chase...

 

my dogs don 't chase those, only squirrels

 

For those with factory correct parts still on the engine and are NOT waiting to install headers or make this any harder than it already is...

For what it is worth..

Take a 9/16" socket and remove the bolt that holds the hockey stick to the engine mount....then take a 7/16" wrench or socket and loosen the other bolt that is holding theshield to the engine block and take out the hockey stick shield.

Pull the rubber boot off the spark plug wire and unclip it from the 2 wire clip by the motor mount. Then get the spark plug wire to uncage from the special clip that is bolted to your oil pan that is hidden by the hockey stick.

Then with the new plug wires....I remove the rubber boot from the plug wire. Sometimes I need a very thin screwdriver to break the seal of how the boot is kinda stuck to the wire...but they all do coem off. Then I reverse the procedure. I re-install the spark plug rubber boot and then cage it in the appropriate clips. Reinstall the hockey stick shields and....DONE.

The worse part of this is getting the wires to be CORRECT LENGTH and hopefully whoever you get them from they are made to correct length.

I have all but lost all confidence in the aftermarket suppliers...they seem to not know how to use a tape measure. I prefer to make my own plug wires on those applications where having a stout ignition system is a benefit.

DUB

 

The boots are different sizes...the spark plug boot won't go thru the motor mount BUT the distributor boot WILL (with a little lube and patience)...so running them backwards so-to-speak is the TRICK.

Bubba was in a hurry! Flat rate booked it!

UnkaHal

 

And if someone is using aftermarket spark plug wires with much larger boots on them...(such as MSD)...then removing the boot off the wire is the only way to do it quickly.

And if the hockey sticks are in place....there is no way in heck someone is going to get the spark plug boot through the motor mount and into the hockey stick shield and routed .

And for what it is worth...with the spark plug boot still on...and having to deal with the 2-wire clip that holds the spark plugs at the motor mounts ( IF they are still installed)...that will be quite FUN to do. Which is why...TIME is MONEY for me...and I simply pull the boots off and slide the wire where it needs to go and slip the boot back on. Because if a person can install the wire through the motor mount WITH the boot on in under a minute...then they are keeping pace with how long it takes me.

DUB

DUB