got my 73 coupe back from the restoration shop and noticed the door gaps were rather large and door seemed to sag. I asked the mech. about it and he said that was about as good as it was going to get. seemed strange that I spent a lot of money and the door gaps were not addressed. so is there a way to close the door gaps with shims and new springs or is that it.

scott

 

No way in telling because we can not see what you are looking at.

VERY GOOD photos are required.

And I can tell you...that getting the door gaps perfect or darn near perfect CAN BE DONE if a person takes the time.

I will ask 'rvzio' to post photos from his resto.

DUB

 

Below are a variety of pictures showing the door gap issues I had on my 69 build. Talking with Dub I learned how to back tape so the product would not fall into the gap while applying. The VPA is an excellent product for these repairs however there is a learning curve on how to mix based on temperature when to sand it etc. As Dub mentioned without seeing the problem it's hard to discuss a fix. Hope these help.

RVZIO

 

Hi Scott,
" he said that was about as good as it was going to get."
Wow! Pretty disappointing to hear.

"back from the restoration shop."
What kind of work did the shop do?
Was the car painted?
Knowing that will have a direct bearing on what it may still be feasible to do in order to improve the situation at this point.

Often it's not how wide the gaps are that catches one's eye, but rather that the gap be even from to bottom and at the front and rear of the door, and that the transition from the fender to the door and from the door to the quarter panel be as smooth as possible. Achieving this involves positioning the door in the existing opening to achieve the best overall appearance.

So, FIRST, new paint or not?
Regards,
Alan

 

What is the limit for how large of a gap that can be closed with VPA without some glass/resin reinforcement? If you're building out the edge of a door with just VPA doesn't it become too weak at some point?

 

I don't think that question is appreciated around here.

Of course it's better to build up the edges of panels with fiberglass. You don't see guys globing on filler to steel cars to close up gaps, well unless they are hack artists. In any case it's obviously better to extend body panels using the same material the rest of the car is made of and it ain't made of VPA. Says right on the can it's not recommended for structural repairs. Takes more time to do it right with fiberglass but not that much more. No way I'm going to be convinced VPA won't chip out easier than reinforced fiberglass.

 

Thanks for the door gap repair pics....now I don't have to search 3 years of posts...LOL! ( did do a search a few days ago, though)

 

Just curious, have you ever used VPA?

 

When I did the door gapes on my 77 I got the door as far back as I could to make the rear gap perfect. Then I ground down the fender and door edge and fiberglassed the door closed. Then took a hacksaw blade and cut the door line. Then sanded it until I got the gap I wanted. Worked perfect.

If your door is sagging you might want to try new hinges.

 

That's another way to do it.

RVZIO

 

For what this is worth...and do as you wish.

Unless a person has used VPA...and KNOWS what its capabilities are. It might be wise to either...NOT comment on how they thinks it works...but rather....test it and find out for yourself.

I would not have any problem building out 1/4" to close in a gap...BUT...there is process to do that which is not that hard but does take some grinding and other steps to provide the VPA more of a surface to grab to. IF needed...I can explain to those who choose to PM me on it.

Also...for those who read cans and read that EVERCOAT states that VPA is not for structural repairs. I would bet about that all of those people did not call EVERCOAT to find out what that statement means. I did becasue that statement was not on the can when I started to use it. That statement was put on the can...because there are idiots out there that tried to bond fiberglass ground effect kits to the steel of a car. And it failed. SO...EVERCOAT had to put that in there for those who try to re-invent the wheel. By them putting that statement on the can...it releases them from the idiots in the world that will try to get them to cover damages.

It CAN be used for structural...but a person has to have a clue on how to use it. If anyone doubts me...call EVERCOAT and get a hold of tech rep...they WILL confirm it. I use it to bond on top hood surrounds, fenders, quarters and any part that is fiberglass and NON-SMC

If a person choose to apply mat and resin...have at it.

And YES...applying the VPA to the body panel and NOT the door is advised IF the closing of gaps is being performed......UNLESS....the person notices that previous bodymen have sanded away a lot of the outer skin of the door and some will need to be built out there. I have seen this in a few instances where when I look a the door gap...I can actually see the steel inner structure of the door showing.

YES...VPA can be used on the door like what 'rvzio's' photos show. Knowing what you are doing with it is helpful and in some minor scenarios...that VPA can be used to build out the gap on the door.

And for the record...when I typed out 'idiots'. That was NOT directed to ANYONE here on the forum. It was directed to those idiots that did what they did. SO....do not take offense ..because I was NOT directing it at anyone here.

DUB

 

Is it any wonder why so few want to comment on body repair work here

 

First off...I am very passionate about doing body and paint work to the best it can be...and that is NOT implying that you do not want the same. I am just saying that I really try to get the information out there that is helpful. And if comments on something I know about are different than what I know...I WILL comment accordingly.

IF a person is only throwing out what they think and what they do not know for a fact when commenting on a product...and it capabilities...they should keep their thoughts to themselves.

If you had written that you never used VPA and you feel it is not worth using...then we all would know you are talking out of the other side of your mouth.

And IF people want to comment...let them do so....like you did. And if it has no merit...it will be addressed accordingly. 'Kinda' like if someone says they wipe their paint jobs down before painting with rag soaked in gasoline ( which I DO NOT ADVISE DOING!!!)....and every paint job they have ever done has been perfect. I am sure you would comment that you feel they are full of it. Or maybe I am wrong.

Because ...when it comes to body work and paint...this area of Corvette repair is usually so expensive to do...having alternatives that work can be greatly appreciated by those who actually use them and see that they do work. Unless the past 30+ years of me doing it is not long enough to show that it does work.

I am NOT writing that if a person wants to apply mat and resin to make this type of repair that they are foolish to do that. They can do as they see fit. But will will say that going through all of that to close in a gap that is so narrow....is something I would not do due I know what will work and actually be equal to and if not stronger than the original fiberglass the car is made out of. The same goes for filling in the bonding seams...I use VPA. If a person want to laminate it in..that is up to them.

I can not help that you took what I wrote as an attack whatever you want to call it...but what I wrote in my previous post is correct. Just because I can clarify on what you wrote you should not be offended ...and when other members come in and show what VPA can do...I would think you make you appreciate it instead of taking offense in it.

DUB

 

Driver door on my 69 was sagging slightly. My body guy put in new pin bushings and it solved the problem. Here is an article I found at corvette c enteral.

http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2012...-hinge-repair/

Ken

 

I have found that when I have to replace the door hinge bushing...often times the striker bolt is also sloppy and the stainless steel ring is spinning on it and it is needing to be replaced so whee the door latch grabs onto it...the door cannot go up or down very much at all when the door is closed.

When the door bushings are GOOD and the striker bolt is GOOD...and the tightness of the striker bolt when put into the latch mechanism and latched and checked is GOOD.

When the door is closed...any gaps that a person wants to correct can be done at that time. Doing any door gap modifications when the door is not solid...is...in my opinion...pointless.

And as it should not need to be written...any time door adjustments/modifications are done the car needs to be on level ground.

DUB

 

Believe me, I understand that you think you own the topic of body and paint here. You put A LOT of time and emotion in on the subject here building up a loyal following. You are resentful to challenges of your authority, I get it already. I'm simply stating that this time I think you went too far and are giving out bad amateur advice. Yes, I think.

I'm on board with not wanting to get involved with most body and paint questions here, I know what to expect from you and have better things to do with my time. In the case of repairing panel gaps, I've made my common sense suggestion and I'm done on this particular topic. If you don't like my suggestions or statements please put me on your ignore list, thought you said you did? Good chance I'm going to say something else in the future you won't like.

 

if you just completed a restoration, and did not ask them address the sagging doors before hand,
your stuck with what you got, from average body shop.

any "good corvette restoration shop" would have addressed the sagging doors before paint.
and informed you of the problem, and ask if you wish to address the issue $.
condition of bushing is the first thing to check.

 

You are so far of the mark it makes me laugh.

If someone wants to challenge what I write...or need me to further explain why I have the position I have on that particular subject let them do it. I want them to if they have question.

I do not OWN the 'paint and body' section. So come on in and add your advice.

I DID NOT say what you said about laminating with mat and resin was WRONG. Even though you wrote that VPA

But when your comment on VPA was an opinion...that is where the thread took a turn. You obviously have not used it. Because if you had that comment would not have been written If you have left you comment of VPA out of your comment....things would have gone quite differently.

We may disagree in the future....but I do not see you coming back with facts and saying that what I wrote about about the properties of VPA is incorrect.

Ans as for you feeling that I gave out 'bad armature advice'...you are entitled to having your opinion on a product that you have never used...which makes that comment have no merit and is only your speculation....in my opinion. It is like telling someone how that new car felt when it is driven when you drove it.

DUB

 

Hello DUB,
I am from Germany and wanted to ask you what actually is VPA? What does that stand for, and is it a Special brand Body filler that you are using?


Thank you!

 

Look at POST#3 in this thread. And the third photo. Roger posted a photo of the gallon can.

VPA= Vette Panel Adhesive from EVERCOAT.

And yes....in my opinion....there is nothing like VPA on the market. There are many products that I feel try to be like it but they all seem to coem up a bit short in that regard.

DUB