Sorry for asking mundane questions!!!!! Limited time to work on the Vette so I am trying to get as much done as possible. I did some quick research and have found pictures both ways, so I am wondering which is as correct as possible. I know the leaf and rear cover are incorrect but would like to get as close as possible!!!

My rear leaf spring is a replacement and I have been trying to cleanup the rear section of the car. I got brave ( for me) and removed the rear leaf to clean and paint. At the last minute I got even braver and disassembled it. Hopefully I can get it back together!!!!




The last few sections have metal ties keeping some of the leaf springs together. I have seen pics with both them on and off. Did GM have these when they left the factory??? I believe the answer is no, but.... They are definitely not just something the manufacturer used to ship the spring, as I have read before, they are too well made for that.

So stay or go? If I remove them, I could clean the remaining springs alot more thoroughly. If the are going why did the manufacturer feel that they needed to be added and what will I loose by removing them??
I cannot slide them off due to the button from the spacer which is probably too brittle to try to remove.

As always greatly appreciated!!! Ike

 

Hello Ike,
The straps should be removed.
They're sometimes called shipping straps because they help keep the leafs in alignment when it's being shipped.
I agree that you have some sort of 'replacement' spring... the straps and the shape of the ends of the leafs seem to indicate that.
If the spring you're restoring gives the car a good ride-height I think it's wise you're sticking with it. Replacing springs can become a real headache!
Regards,
Alan

How to spot original springs.
For your info:

The cut corners at the ends of the longest leaf.


The other leafs curl slightly up at each end.


The other leafs have a taper cut into each side.

 

Alan thanks for the quick response!!!!. As a correction to my first post, the black spacers pop right out easily but still can't do that with the strap in place!!!

I will cut them right out and while I am at it I think I will clip the corners to simulate a original spring if they will cut easily!!!

It also looks like the spacers are very different. Mine are a circular disk yours are a rectangular sheet.

Thanks again for the excellent response and the speed of it. Time to break out the grinder!! Ike

 

Hi Ike,
I'm not sure what liners are your spring.
68-72 springs had a flexible but fairly stiff black plastic liner in this shape, and it typically extended a little past the end of the leaf.

l-------l A cross section.

What is the width of your spring...2-1/2" or 2-1/4"? That might help identify it.
Regards,
Alan

 

Ike...I had the exact same replacement spring on my '72. The straps were long gone. Getting it back together is pretty easy.

Brian

 

 

If you really want the angles on the ends of the main leaf......scribe marks on the leaf and use a 4" side grinder with a 1/16" or 1/8" cut-off disc installed on the grinder. Wear safety glasses!

You can cut angles on both ends of the leaf....then use a metal file to remove sharp edges.

 

Mark each leaf as to front and back, if it's not too late, and reassemble the same way. I found that they take a slight set over time and if not reassembled as they were before they'll tend to splay and not stay aligned. Then you WILL need those bands.

 

the correct width spring fits snug in between the four attaching bolts. you have a poorly made replacement spring. and that set up you have is a great recipe to crack your rear end cover

 

 

Later c3s, 78/79s have standard springs that were 2 1/2" width and used a carrier with the bolts spaced to accommodate those 2 1/2" wide springs.
When the gymkhana springs were ordered, GM used an 1/8th" spacer front and rear of the 2 1/4" wide gymkhana spring to fill the space.
No problem using the spacers which were simply bare metal, maybe cad plated.

I agree, remove the straps.

 

Yes your spring is to narrow. Those home made shims are to make up the slack. There should be no gap between the bolts and spring.

 

It appears you have a mixed configuration of a differential cover sized for a 2 1/2" wide spring with a 2 1/4" wide spring installed with spacers. You mention that the rear cover was replaced, it may be different from the original. Your spring could be a different width than the original too. In any case there were plenty of cars that came off the assembly line with 2 1/4" springs with spacers on a diff sized for a 2 1/2" spring. Not sure if that occurred in '72 but in any case there's nothing inherently wrong with running it that way.

I'd lay a straight edge along the leafs to get an idea which way the set is and use that data for reassembly.

 

Revitup, yes it looks like the rear diff cover dates to late 70s and was set up for a 2 1/2 in spring. A replacement spring was put on that is 2 1/4 and the spacers were used. It seems like it is a common modification done often. Thank you for the straight edge idea. Will do!!!

Nowhere Man I assume you are not in favor of the spacers????

I am not sure when the Diff cover and the spring was replaced. You think they would have matched them but perhaps they were not done at the same time.

Ike

 

if it works I guess its fine but I am always in favor in the more critical areas of the car to keep it as GM designed it. with your odd ball set up its hard to say if you got the right grade bolts, shank dia, and length. as the wrong ones will crack the rear end cover and cause a failure

 

 

Call around to the many rebuilders. I’m sure someone has one. There is a guy who post in the C2 section that rebuilds them too.

 

Hi Ike,
Yes.
The newish 5th Edition of the NCRS 70-72 TIM&JG contains this sort of information.

I'd give some thought to the spring before deciding just how to proceed with the work you're doing on the rear of your chassis.

Depending on the results you're looking for, sometimes it better to get the proper parts to start with.
Regards,
Alan

Here's an example of the chassis section of the TIM&JG.

 

Thank you Alan I must get the NCRS manual!!!!!

I wish my $$ pockets were unlimited, but I had decided when I first started to clean up
the Vette that I would not replace the more expensive incorrect parts as long as they are functional for now, like the rear, but would replace smaller parts and missing equipment, like the alarm. I think you must set up limits otherwise you can go crazy chasing every large and small items. She will never be a judgable car, so I just want to get it as correct as possible and stop the disintegration that 45 years has done.

Again thanks for all your assistance over these months. You and the other forum members have been invaluable as a source of information and inspiration. Every time you post a pic, first I get a little jealous and second it inspires me to do my best.

Ike

 

The actual difference in the carriers is the size of the bolts.
Early carriers meant for use with 2 1/4" springs used 9/16" bolts.
Later with the 2 1/2" springs used 7/16" bolts so the spacers were needed with the 2 1/4" gymkhana springs.