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Your parts look much better than they did before you repainted. But, for the sake of other readers I would say that it is best to strip all the old paint first. A chemical stripper is easy to use and not expensive.
Doing so will eliminate the 'ghost' lines of pre-existing paint.
You did a nice job of masking and painting. Results are positive.
7T1 is right, also, use an etch primer first, otherwise your paint will come off just by looking at it! Got bitten on the backside big time by not doing that on a job.
7T1 is right, also, use an etch primer first, otherwise your paint will come off just by looking at it! Got bitten on the backside big time by not doing that on a job.
A good quality satin black spray paint WILL stick to the base metal--IF YOU LET THE PAINT COMPLETELY CURE. Unless the paint has a hardener added to it, ALL paint will take several days to a week to completely cure. Working with it before the paint is cured will almost always result in damage to the paint surface...or strip some off under contact.
I agree that most bare-metal paint jobs should get self-etching primer first. But, with the interior bezels, etc., that would mean shooting primer, then stripping paint off chrome areas, then shooting paint and doing it again--or masking twice. Too much trouble for me; and the factory didn't prime those parts. I've redone mine with Krylon or John Deere Blitz Black spray paints and had NO trouble with chipping, etc. WITHOUT priming the parts first.
Probably, but call backs cost money, and I don't want to take the risk. And I've had no issues with this method, but a few without etch primer. Plus, customers and groomers are impatient....
I used Rustolum Satin black paint primer combo... hopefully by the time I get back to putting them back in in 3 weeks, it will have cured well.
Jetglow,
Interesting moniker. Why didn't you use Jet-Glo? After all, it IS hard as nails.
You did a great job! Dramatic improvement.
I used Rustoleum Satin too. It seems pretty hard and scratch-resistant as well.
Your parts look much better than they did before you repainted. But, for the sake of other readers I would say that it is best to strip all the old paint first. A chemical stripper is easy to use and not expensive.
Doing so will eliminate the 'ghost' lines of pre-existing paint.
You did a nice job of masking and painting. Results are positive.
What stripper would you recommend for the washer switch bezel please, i have some Naval gel stuff you paint on and wash off. thanks
Any of the gel-type strippers work well. You can just brush on surface and let it sit, then wash off. If paint is left in creases/corners, do it again with focus on those areas. After all the old paint is off, make sure that you wash the part with detergent to get ALL the stripper off the surface. Use a toothbrush if you need to get it all. Then rinse well to get the detergent off! Then dry completely.
Some folks swear by Citristrip, which is a non-toxic stripper (or environmentally friendly, if you prefer). I haven't used it myself, but may try it when I run out of the 'goo'.
Some folks swear by Citristrip, which is a non-toxic stripper (or environmentally friendly, if you prefer). I haven't used it myself, but may try it when I run out of the 'goo'.
Folks,
I'm one of those guys. It's readily available, relatively safe, no fumes, and most importantly, works GREAT! AAMOF, I stripped the paint off the entire body of my Vette with it (took 1.25 gallons).
My 2 cents.
Folks,
I'm one of those guys. It's readily available, relatively safe, no fumes, and most importantly, works GREAT! AAMOF, I stripped the paint off the entire body of my Vette with it (took 1.25 gallons).
My 2 cents.
Very seriously Kansas.
Took me a couple of weeks, but:
No Fumes,
No Dust,
Just a lot of goo and newspaper to dispose of. Got all the way down to the black. And exposed all the bondo work the PO did.
04-09-2018, 07:44 PM
Painting shift console and misc
Why didn't you use Jet-Glo? After all, it IS hard as nails.
Then dry completely.