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If you have a Q-Jet on the engine now, spending money for a "better" carb with more potential for power and better efficiency would be a total waste of your funds. Rebuild the carb or send it to Lars to rebuild it.
There is NO CARB MADE that will outperform the Q-Jet for smooth transitions, power, or efficiency. They may be easier to work on; but once the Q-Jet it tuned properly, you won't have to touch it again.
If you have a Q-Jet on the engine now, spending money for a "better" carb with more potential for power and better efficiency would be a total waste of your funds. Rebuild the carb or send it to Lars to rebuild it.
There is NO CARB MADE that will outperform the Q-Jet for smooth transitions, power, or efficiency. They may be easier to work on; but once the Q-Jet it tuned properly, you won't have to touch it again.
I agree. If the Q-jet is original to your 75, save yourself a lot of grief and have a competent source like Lars rebuild it. You can make better improvements in other places, like getting rid of the emissions crap and revising the timing.
You don't even have to strip off the emissions stuff. (And you don't want to if your state requires emissions testing of your vintage car.)
But, you DO want to move the vacuum hose for the distributor advance can over to a manifold vacuum source on your Q-Jet (instead of the 'timed' /ported vacuum line as it came from the factory). Doing so will put vacuum advance back on the engine at idle, which will improve idle quality, let engine run cooler, and reduce fuel usage at idle.
Looking for some advice on replacing the carburetor on my 75 stingray. What brand etc. Looking for a little better fuel efficiency and power. Thanks!
I'd rebuild what's on there - it's been there a long time. No idea what you have but rebuilding a Holley 4160 cost about $30 and was straightforward. Feels like a new pair of sneakers.
I looked through replacements and like some of the Holley Quick Fuel Slayer carbs. At least with the rebuild I didn't have to fool with different cables, brackets, etc. Minor.
Last edited by pigfarmer; Apr 14, 2018 at 08:15 AM.
If you have a Q-Jet on the engine now, spending money for a "better" carb with more potential for power and better efficiency would be a total waste of your funds. Rebuild the carb or send it to Lars to rebuild it.
There is NO CARB MADE that will outperform the Q-Jet for smooth transitions, power, or efficiency. They may be easier to work on; but once the Q-Jet it tuned properly, you won't have to touch it again.
You don't even have to strip off the emissions stuff. (And you don't want to if your state requires emissions testing of your vintage car.)
But, you DO want to move the vacuum hose for the distributor advance can over to a manifold vacuum source on your Q-Jet (instead of the 'timed' /ported vacuum line as it came from the factory). Doing so will put vacuum advance back on the engine at idle, which will improve idle quality, let engine run cooler, and reduce fuel usage at idle.
If the carburetor is the correct qjet for 75 automatic (7045222) the correct vacuum port for distributor is the upper port on driver side of carb and it’s full vacuum at idle.
The only ported vacuum port is on lower throttle plate on passenger side of carb but it is modulated meaning the amount of vacuum tapers off as the throttle plates continue to open because it’s used for the EGR valve. I just went through this with Cliff Ruggles.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by Inca32x
If the carburetor is the correct qjet for 75 automatic (7045222) the correct vacuum port for distributor is the upper port on driver side of carb and it’s full vacuum at idle.
The only ported vacuum port is on lower throttle plate on passenger side of carb but it is modulated meaning the amount of vacuum tapers off as the throttle plates continue to open because it’s used for the EGR valve. I just went through this with Cliff Ruggles.