IMHO, fusible links are a PITA and I'd never replace one with another one. If the overload is high enough to blow the fusible link then the circuit has to be diagnosed and what is causing the problem is found and fixed. I would also not use a circuit breaker for basically the same reason. From 1970 till 1972 I was the lead troubleshooter on the DC-10 electrical system so I do have some experience in the field. If you have ever been bitten by 120 volts at 400 cycles you'll know what I'm referring too.
I do not know it all or pretend to as I try to learn something new every day, but this is a very basic circuit and will relieve the high current flow through the headlight switch.

 

I had a similar over-heat issue at the headlight switch, which only started after I installed an aftermarket replacement. My condition was that the lights would ALL go out after the brights were on for more than 5-10 seconds, causing the thermal protector inside the switch to open up temporarily. (The new ones were garbage)
I ended up merging the old switch with the new one to get the best of both.
Now, the only issue I have is that SOME of my center gauge lights flicker on and off - AND seem to have some tie to the hi-beam floor switch. They will flicker when pressing the floor switch, and never want to stay on.
Any thoughts on that one? Bad floor switch / loose connection at that switch?

 

Two things come to mind. First I'd make sure all grounds are clean and tight and second, make sure the connector is tight at the dimmer switch. Does the dimmer switch connector appear to be burned? If so a new one is in order and yes the pins are removable.
Putting relays in should cure your problem. Also the rheostat and it's contact, the dimmer for the gauge lights, could also be dirty.

 

I guess I am lucky or we clearly think differently on this. but...fusible links for me...are the furthest thing from being a PITA to install. Because I do not find that cutting wires and crimping butt connectors and using heat shrink tubing a PITA.

AND as it was written.."IF the overload is high enough to blow the fusible link". They keyword in that statement is IF.

Fusible links, circuit breakers and fuses are used to protect the wire. NOT the component. Reason being...you do not want your wiring harnesses burning up.

These protection components for the wire all do their job in different ways. A fuse will pop the instant it exceeds the rating. Thus the problem needs to be fixed.

A circuit breaker...if it exceeds its rating...it pops...re-sets and then it also has to be repaired for whatever is causing the problem.
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A fusible link ..the same thing. BUT a fusible link is bit more forgiving...so if a spike is present. The fusible link can hold up and not get burned up depending on the value of that spike. This depends on circumstances.

SO..how ever a person wants to protect their wire circuit. I am fine with that. If they want to replace fuses...GREAT. If they want to find the problem that is causing the circuit breaker that is popping....GREAT. AND if they do not want to mess with fusible link due to it being a pain. GREAT.

Just make sure the circuit is protected.

DUB

 

Just a difference of opinion, no harm, no foul.
I don't have a problem with crimp connectors, did many when I worked at McDonnell Douglas, it's just that to do them right you need the proper connectors and crimping tool. Out of the weather not so much a problem, but in a weather are I prefer to solder and use heat shrink and in my opinion that is impractical with fusible links.
I only used a 25 amp fuse on the headlight circuit in the Vette since I'd rather replace a fuse, after figuring out what caused it to blow, than to replace a lot of burnt wiring.
The bottom line is to do whatever you're comfortable with and make sure the repairs are good and the circuit is protected.

 

As promised. Here is a photo of a headlight switch that obviously malfunctioned and DID cause the dash to catch fire.



DUB

 

DUB

 

I don't believe I've seen one that bad although I've seen a dimmer switch connector in that condition.

 

YEAH..I was kinda shocked when I got into to to find this. The dash panel was really cooked and actually got so hot that the laminate film in the windshield bubbled between the layers of glass.

It now causes me to have to consider this area as being a point where a fire can start. Not like I do not have countless other areas to worry about.

DUB

 

I have a lot of problems with my Vette, but I'm sure glad that isn't one of them.
After replacing a couple of door switches my cargo light still didn't work. After troubleshooting I found the wire that supplied voltage to the circuit was damaged and it was in the harness at he left door jam and factory covered. I cut the bad part out and it's worked fine ever since.
This is the section of wire.