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While waiting on Duntov to build/ship my rear & trailing arms I decided to inspect the existing rust on my 1978 C3. IMO it's no where as bad as others I've seen, but I would appreciate the experts' opinions.
It's not always possible to tell from photos, but it looks like you have nothing but surface rust. Now would be a good time to clean it up and get some paint on it to stop any future rust.
its whats on the inside that will be worse. but you just have surface rust.. get you a paint wand or something and spray in the inside of your frame as much as you can whilst it is apart.
you can get to lots more that way
Put an air nozzle inside the frame and blow it out. I think you'd be surprised at what blows around. I had rust chunks, mouse nests, a pen and some change come out when I did that just after I bought my car.
Blow rust inhibitor in the frame with a paint gun. It'll drip out, but It'll help.
Put an air nozzle inside the frame and blow it out. I think you'd be surprised at what blows around. I had rust chunks, mouse nests, a pen and some change come out when I did that just after I bought my car.
Blow rust inhibitor in the frame with a paint gun. It'll drip out, but It'll help.
Yeah, already found the mouse nest when I drop the rear...lol
Looks like surface rust.
Get an ice pic and start stabbing LOL
I just went through this with my frame and it looked worse than that but was solid as can be
Eastwood has some great products to help, including a inside frame coating system
They also have some large wire brushes that work well
That said, beware of the temptation that will arise to pull the body
off to get to it all. That is what happened to me.
POR-15 makes a great rust inhibiting system. That is what I use. Works great.
The problem with rust on our cars it's not usually the rust you can see that's the problem, it's the rust that you can't see because it's behind the fiberglass. The "birdcage" is where the nasty rust occurs because you can't see the effects of it like an all metal body car. While you are rust hunting I suggest you look at all the body mounts and take the kick panel off both sides and check #2 body mount. That should give you an indication of the general condition of the birdcage. To me your frame looks good.
POR-15 makes a great rust inhibiting system. That is what I use. Works great.
The problem with rust on our cars it's not usually the rust you can see that's the problem, it's the rust that you can't see because it's behind the fiberglass. The "birdcage" is where the nasty rust occurs because you can't see the effects of it like an all metal body car. While you are rust hunting I suggest you look at all the body mounts and take the kick panel off both sides and check #2 body mount. That should give you an indication of the general condition of the birdcage. To me your frame looks good.
I agree. I would try to use the POR-15 system of products before I get in there and get too crazy with wire wheels and such.
Where Im from, that doesn't even qualify as rust. Ive bought used cars from showrooms with bottom sides that look worse. Continue on with whatever other projects you may have. You dont have any rust to be concerned with. Thats just 'patina'.
I got under there today and wire brushed off all of the loose crap and hit with some rust converter. I just ordered a quart of POR-15 via Amazon. My trailing arms and half shafts arrive tomorrow. I still have until next week before my differential arrives, so that gives me a bit more time to clean up under there.
Mine looked like yours when I got it , I broke a wheel stud off one of the rear trailing arm axle , so I pulled it off to fix properly and it started ……..
Mine looked like yours when I got it , I broke a wheel stud off one of the rear trailing arm axle , so I pulled it off to fix properly and it started ……..
Is that your workshop ? Unusual style of hoist there. Looks strong !
I wish it was my workshop/garage. There is an "old school" mechanic down the street from me that is doing most of the work on my 78, but he allows me to cleanup/paint the under carriage when he's not there. I'm also supplying the parts. Here's what were are doing:
Complete front suspension- Upper/Lower Control Arms, coil springs, shocks, ball joints, tie rods, sway bar & wheel bearings.
Complete rear suspension- Composite leaf spring, shocks,strut rods, etc.
I initially only intended on doing the rear suspension, but once we had her up on the lift we noticed at least 1" play in/out on the right trailing arm. So rather than messing around I called Duntov Motors in Texas and bought the following:
3.55 Differential
Half Shaft assemblies 3"
2 Trailing arm assemblies
All of the above may have been "overkill", but I figure I won't ever have to worry about anything below the car again (in my lifetime). Oh and while I was on a shopping spree, I bought Hooker sides (black) and 17" AR Torqs w/ BF Goodrich 255/45R17 mounted to them. I only paid $5k for the car and it had a newly (less than 200 mile) re-built engine which was built by a local Speed Shop with receipts to back it up.