welcome to the club, I bought my running 74 and figured it was a 6 month project to be out enjoying it. Well, its been 4 years now, found a lot of issues. 35% due to age and the other 65% due to the 4 previous owners (all bubba's) or the mechanics they hired to work on the car. I'm in the home stretch and hoping to paint it this spring and finally be out by summer...it is the longest 6 months I've ever had.LOL Good luck!

 

haha I know how that goes! I'm sure it'll be all the more special when its all said and done though

 

Hi, you asked about the ignition switch? Its mounted on the top of the steering column under the dash, if you are taking the column out of the car its easy enough to get to when its out, you have to disconnect the wiring to it to remove the column anyway. A new switch is under $30.
FWIW the ignition key lock is harder to remove:-) When you turn the key you are moving a rod on the top outside of the column that moves the electrical switch.

 

You might find this Jim Shea paper on the steering column useful.

 

This was very helpful, thank you. I thought the AIM (installation manual) was going to be of more benefit but it def didnt go into the detail I thought it was...especially regarding the column components and assembly (I guess I had the wrong impression of how the manual works). The link you sent did the trick and was perfect.

I got the IGN switch swapped out and the car cranks perfectly! In all tilt positions too, finally haha. I got it all buttoned up and assembled. I did break the little 5 lug plastic horn ring that sits on top of the lock plate. As I was going to remove it, it just crumbled like a doritos potato chip (it was DEF the original). Very brittle. As soon as that arrives I can finish the steering column and close that chapter. I'll update this thread soon with the pics and everything (hopefully it'll help others)

 

(***I spent 15 minutes just trying to get pics to attach and I would either get 2-3 done and then the next would get to 90% and never finish uploading. I got frustrated as I do not know why this occurred (site issues???) so I will post the narrative and come back later to try the pics again***)

Okay, so for those following along on this "mis"adventure (haha) I have a few updates!

A couple days ago I got the fiberglass repaired. I reinforced the seams on the driver side (along with fixing the crack on this side). I used 4 self tapping screws to help pull the debonded sheets together for a good seal with the glass once I applied it. I also used a jack with a large board underneath to help apply pressure evenly over the entire bottom of the floor board on the driver side. While I had all the material out, I also went ahead and covered up a 1/2" hole drilled in the passenger floor board. This was not the drain hole because that can be clearly seen to the left of the hole so I am not sure why this was there but fixed it anyway so moisture couldn't hurt the new carpet once installed (on order from Ecklers coming from ACC. I guess its made to order type stuff so its gonna be a few weeks).

I then tackled my unreliable starting issue. I initially dropped the starter, took it apart, cleaned it all, hoping that would be an easy fix. Although the starter needed it, that was not the culprit of my starting problems. In my ignorance, I then went to the steering column and disassembled it down to the lock tumbler THINKING the wires that start the car would run through there. I believed this to be the next cause because I had to hold the tilt lever in and move the column up and down while turning they key for the car to MAYBE start, as there was no rhyme or reason for when it worked vs when it didnt. I thought this could be a pinched wire or frayed/grounding out wire. When I got to the signal wire ring, I quickly realized there was nothing in this cluster that dealt with the actual starting of the car. (Now, as much as I hated spending all this time in the steering column, I will say...I learned a TON about how it works and what components make up that piece. So although I wanted to say it was a waste of time, I really cant as I increased my knowledge dramatically). After realizing (from help on here) that the ignition switch is located at the base of this column, on top, I reassembled bulk of the steering column and then proceeded to drop the column and pull it though the fire wall. I quickly saw the IGN switch although I could not see anything in particular that led me to believe it was bad. Because it was so old anyway and i had the new $13 part on hand, I changed it out anyway. Before reinstalled in the column, I hooked up the battery and gave it a whirl. . . MAGIC! it started right up better than ever. Now I didn't want to get my hopes too high, as the car still sometimes started, just in various positions. In the back of my mind I thought maybe with the column pulled out, a wire may no longer be pinched so it's deciding to work.

As I reinstalled the column completely, I tried it again and it worked. Then I tried in EVERY tilt position and she cranked like nothing had ever been wrong! It would appear that the switch was indeed the culprit and what a difference! It starts now right way and almost seems like a "stronger" start (if that makes sense. My only thought is now maybe the prong is getting all the power sent to the starter instead of maybe dirty/old connections causing less power feeding through???? that may be dumb, idk). Regardless, it's fixed and now I am only waiting on the "horn contact carrier retainer" since that brittle piece crumbled upon removal. I also went an got a new "horn contact/button retainer" as the one in the vehicle is rusted over and 1 of the 3 plastic "rivets" was missing and I figured that could cause another issue when everything is working right and not contacting correctly fort he horn to function). As soon as those come in, I'll get the steering column completed and move on to the next job-------> fixing the rear passenger drive axle side yoke.

 

Potentially looking into this for the side yoke; is the corvette a 17 spline???

https://www.justdifferentials.com/YO...etstub-17u.htm

I used Nitro Gears in my tacoma (4.56 ratio installed for 35's) and I have been very satisfied with Nitro.

EDIT: disregard, just spoke with Nitro (after talking to "East Coast Gear Supply" and "Just Differentials") and Nitro no longer makes that part. Last one they had any records of selling was in 2017 and never saw anymore.

Back to the drawing board. . .may have to go with Yukon brand???

 

Here are just some of the pics related to the fiberglass. Still having issues uploading pics.

I applied 2 layers of the "mat" fiberglass and 1 layer of "cloth" for this process.
I sanded down all the rough edges afterwards and applied an additional thin coat of resin along the edges to better blend it with the floor (probably unnecessary but I had the little bit left)

 

These pics were more taken for me to know how to put things back together correctly and no so much any other purpose:







Broke the plastic retainer piece into about 5 pieces upon attempting to remove the piece. It was as brittle as a doritos chip but not as thick. Waiting on a new one to complete the steering wheel re assembly.





The moment when I quickly realized this harness does not interact with the tumbler and affect the starting function. However, the wires all looked great so it ruled out any column wire issues should I run into other signal problems down the road.


Dropped the column once I got the upper half mostly together so I could swap out the IGN switches. In with the new.


Bolted up with no issues and the metal rod fell right into place before installing the 2 screws. All connectors fit perfect. One note: the black plastic piece will need to be plugged in first as the front white piece has an overlapping corner piece that pushes against the rear of the black plugs.


This is the contact for the key buzzer warning. It is found underneath the tumbler and when the key is in, it makes contact with the piece, pushing the 2 metal contacts into the "pink and black" wires on the signal ring in the column. When the key is turned on, a piece in the tumbler relieves the plastic piece that pushes the prongs that makes contact and that buzzer no longer goes off (if I understand it correctly based off my dissassembly and investigation haha)




out with the old IGN switch!



Can anyone tell me what that piece circled in red is?

EDIT: thank you. It is a capacitor for static noise reduction.

 

I believe it a capacitor for ignition noise suppression. They help suppress radio interference .You will find quit a few of them spread around your car. I found a few paper ones on my 71.

 

That's what it is. I removed mine when I changed to Steeroids and had to drop the steering wheel down.
This is for the old stereo's that died out when you went under a bridge.

 

awesome, thanks!

 

There is another one on the blower fan, mine was broken off, so in the garbage it went.
Now that I upgraded my stereo, there is no need for these filters.

 

good to know. If I have issues with them its not the end of the world.

 

I received the carpet the other day from ACC via Ecklers along with some horn contact components to finish up the steering reassembly. Carpet looks of great quality. It does look like I will need to cut a square hole in the rear piece to accommodate the light back there, as well as 3 holes (above the light) where there are 3 rubber grommets that help hold the carpet up in the back. Kinda surprised ACC doesnt take this into consideration???



When removing ALL the carpet, I found 2 more spots that need glass repair. This is along the driver lower seat belt assembly area. Normally it is covered by the black plastic piece that protects the seatbelt retractor.



This is along the driver wheel well, just behind the battery compartment area.



Lastly, for those confused by the rack hole placement issue I mentioned earlier in the post, a friend of mine brought something to my attention that I had not realized (and felt quite dumb afterwards): there are screws on the underside and front side of these bars that enable you to take the rack apart. I can only assume someone did this to clean the rack and put it back together not lining up the hole bars with the holes in the fiberglass. Instead of having the 2 holes in the center 2 pieces, they went out 1 on each side and never checked it (I got the car with the rack in the back, not attached to the car). Fixed this little non-issue and got the rack mounted back in the correct spot!





Hopefully the carpet will go in this weekend and it'll be time to take a little break on the car.

 

ACC also doesn't cut the slots for the seat bolts, or the seat belt bolts, either. Every car is a little bit different.

I found a video (likely on this site) that showed burning holes with a 1/2" copper pipe. Find the hole with an awl, stick a drywall screw in to align, heat up the pipe with a blowtorch, and burn a circle around the screw. Worked great in my 80.

Don't be tempted, like I was, to put the seats back in after you do the front carpet. You need to leave them out to get to the back, too, but I wanted to go for a drive.

I'm impressed by your progress!

 

I'll have to find a good size pipe, I dont have 1/2" (just 1.75 that I used for making a tube bumper for my truck haha). And I'll keep that in mind; upon removing the seat-belts, I found the retractors to be completely rusted out so new seat-belts it is. . . I just had no idea how expensive they are!!! I plan on getting the carpet and everything done, probably leave seats out in the meantime and save up a little money before purchasing the seat-belts.

And thanks! I gotta get back to work from a little break so I was trying to get as much done (without pissin' off the wife haha) before it started back up!

 

Back with another question. I finally got the center console off in prep for laying the new carpet. I am very pleased to continue seeing the wiring is mostly unmolested from the previous owner. I knew the radio was after market and would deal with that when I got there. . . an I am approaching that point.

Below, I was wondering if I needed to disconnect anything from the xmsn in order to replace the rubber looking boot that sits below the gear shift. You can see large hole in it.

I was hoping it was just the 3-4 bolts that are visible on the shifter itself, followed by the mulitple screws that hold down the plate that holds the rubber piece down....any input?



Next, all the wires hanging off to right are from the aftermarket radio. I am 99% certain this car did not have rear speakers which is why there were 2 wooden speaker boxes with pioneer speakers along with 2 older, black plastic RCA speakers screwed into the carpet sitting on the wheel well (gross).



My questions in the picture below are as follows:

1) What is the white factory looking wire (that is crimped to the yellow aftermarket radio wire). I tried looking through this forum as well as my AIM and wiring diagrams and cannot seem to find it.

2) What is the red wire with the plastic box in the middle? It comes from the driver side and over to the passenger and goes into the main plug for the aftermarket radio. This red one concerns me because IIRC, they twisted and electical taped (yes...bubba did all the wiring) it into another wire from the main harness that runs under the dash and along the right side of the driver floor well, under the center console). I am able to turn the radio on and get the LED screen with a freq, but with no speakers I didnt know if it was actually receiving or not.

3) Not much of a question but I appears to me that the blue circle is all rear speaker wiring to include L/R/ gnd/ and something else. I THINK the other green and black wires it connects to to the factory go to the FR and FL speakers...when the car had them.

4) Anyone know what the orange terminal is for? I guess it doesnt matter so much as it also goes from the main wire bundle on the aftermarket stereo and I will be getting rid of it anyway.

5) Lastly, the green circle: it is a round plug (male) style connector with 4 prongs. The red wire was cut close to the base, there is also a green and grey wire. If there is a 4th wire, I cannot see it in the pic nor do I remember what color it was. Anyone know what hat one was for? I think it is part of the speaker wires since the grey one loops around to a frayed end that I pulled the RCA wires from (wrapped in elec. tape) and if you follow the green one, it goes up to the right of the radio main wire connector and is bubba taped to the green wire under the dash which I THINK is one of the front speaker's original wire.



In the meantime, thank for the help!

 

It has been awhile folks! I have made a ton of progress on the car but have not updated this thing one bit. I have run into a slight problem when I put a new engine harness in the car as I am trying to figure out what hooks up to the A/C parts from the engine harness and the still OEM air conditioning harness. Based off the manual, it looks like I CUT THE ORANGE WIRE off from the new harness since my car HAS A/C and I only use the black ground wire (which I THINK goes to the blower housing but there are 2 male prongs plus a black wire with capacitor on it and this is problem 1: I dont know which plugs go into what for those 3 items).

If anyone has a good drawing or pics of what wires go where, I would greatly appreciate the help! I do have a 2 pg, black/white wiring diagram that I got from another member on here which has been a huge help, but I am stuck in this regard. I will also post some pics of wires I have questions of... 2. Where does that purple wire go from the A/C harness?




from A/C harness

from A/C harness

NEW engine harness. It looks like I need to cut this off according to the manual since my car IS an A/C car. You just cant see the black wire since it is inline with the orange, out of sight.

This is the engine harness that was in the car that I gutted. It looks like the orange was cut.

Again, any help is appreciated and the more detailed, with pics or drawings, the better; I can be a little slow sometimes and I am not the biggest fan of wiring. Thank you all in advance.

PS - I rebuilt the motor with some help from friends at an outstanding machine shop. Got to do the whole process with them minus the honing/decking/ etc. They were nice enough to let me disassemble the entire motor and rebuild it it bolt by bolt with their over sight and help. Great experience! Put what was equivalent to an L-82 cam and its bored .030 over. Trans is completely rebuilt and sitting in a garbage bag on a roller. Front suspension completely sandblasted and painted. parts rebuilt that needed rebuilding. headlight vacuum hoses all replaced. headlight actuators rebuilt, blasted, painted. front steering components clean, painted, bushing replaced, etc. A/C was checked for leaks and cleaned up. Waiting to pressure test the whole system until it is all back in the car. new heater hoses. currently rebuilding the front brake calipers, clean reservoir and booster before the brakes are completely done. Then itll be time to drop the motor and trans back in and bring the car back to life. Also have a new aluminum Champion 4 row radiator sitting and waiting

After that will be the rear end, followed by interior, then exterior.

 

Third item I forgot to mention. The car did not have the brown wires connected under the dash, only the orange/tan connector. I THINK when the A/C relay burned up, the motor was stuck on high so the last person disconnected the tan plug so he would lose hi blower but still have access to air. When I install the new A/C relay and blower motor resistor, I would assume I am safe to plug that back in???

(Im actually upside down taking this pic so the orientation is all wrong....I had the whole contortion thing going on since I did not remove the driver seat just to undo this one clip.)

to clarify: the connector that has the 4 wires (2 tan, 2 orange) was plugged into the male terminals you see in the pic. It was the 2 other black connectors (1 on the "top" and 1 on the very "bottom" that were NOT plugged into eachother. I assume I can connect those back once the relay and resistor is replaced.


I could be completely wrong about that and that part could go to something completely different???? I dont know and am open to others' input. I saw another piece of equipment that kinda looks like that thing with the male terminals that had something to do with the transmission or something kick down switch that would be somehow tied into the gas pedal??? not sure if thats in the same area or not?