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Engine bay. front of frame clean, wire brushed and painted (I was unable to do a true frame off but got as much as I could of the frame), all steering components, and suspension parts removed, blasted, and painted. New bushings in all suspension parts. New shocks and springs as well.
New vacuum lines as well as rebuilt and painted headlight actuators. Will trim the lines to fit once I am ready to install radiator and condenser.
Rebuilt the numbers matching engine. Bored .030 over with a L82 equivalent CompCam cam installed and roller rockers. Heads decked. Wanted to keep it mostly like the original. I was not building this thing to be a beast, just reliable.
Pinned the seatbelt interlock relay base with the new wire harness. Not sure if I am going to keep it or modify it (the clean way) so it does not interfere with anything.
Cleaned and COMPLETELY rebuilt auto transmission. Didnt feel like pulling it out and removing the bag, sorry. Pics will come when I install it!
Blasted and painted then cleaned the bowls. Just prior to being rebuilt.
The finished product. I know people would bash me for building "new" calipers since they are not the kind with the round o-ring. But I will say a .25mm feeler gauge with some brake fluid on the seals made quick work of installing the pistons back in. Time will tell if they leak They were knew when I got the car, just very rusted on the surface from sitting out and never painted.
Hopefully I'll have the motor and transmission installed in the coming month and let her breath again!
Last edited by Skootter14; Apr 24, 2021 at 10:40 PM.
Tooch1,
You made me laugh! And that's a good thing.
Sgeorge,
On your first post, you said that you had 12 volts on the yellow at the starter with the key ON. That's good and correct.
You need 12 volts at the purple at the starter with the key in START.
Check there first.
It's rare that the SB interlock is bad but here's how to bypass it if all else fails.
Regards, Pete.
The image you posted does not show up and says "currently unavailable." Do you still have how to bypass the seatbelt interlock feature for the 74 and doing it a clean way?
Last edited by Skootter14; Apr 25, 2021 at 01:11 AM.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
No need to cut and splice. Just remove the relay first.
Originally Posted by Skootter14
@Peterbuilt
The image you posted does not show up and says "currently unavailable." Do you still have how to bypass the seatbelt interlock feature for the 74 and doing it a clean way?
@augiedoggy I'm not sure exactly how the system works (which circuits need to be opened vs closed), but I wonder if not completing that circuit would trip some other "checks and balances" still preventing the car from starting??? If your way works, that's definitely easier haha
The previous harness was done exactly like that; the owner didnt even remove the relay. He just cut the 2 wires and butt connected them.
I removed the physical relay and opened it up to see what I can remove for it to make room for the jumper wire. I plan on still keeping all the pins to plug into the orange base but the metal shell/housing will be empty with just the wire going from purple to green/blk. That way it all still looks like its there.
Where do you get all these graphics from? They are quite helpfully, thank you.
Last edited by Skootter14; Apr 25, 2021 at 08:03 PM.
I have added 3 photos below that I feel spells out my wiring issue. There are 4 questions total with 1 question having an "a" and "b" photo for explanation. I am looking for any pictures from other's car with A/C (preferably a 74) or any explanations so I can see/know where all this hooks up to. I have new blower motor resistor and relay installed and those connections are self explanatory. I have found a little bubba wiring before I bought the new engine harness and want to make sure I hook everything else back up correctly.
Thank you in advance for any help and if I did not make anything clear enough, don't hesitate to let me know and I can further explain.
(NOTE: the forum did not like my .ppt from .pdf copy so I had to take a pic and upload the .jpg. You may need to zoom in on pic if it looks unclear)
Making progress. Almost ready to put the motor and xmsn back in.
Finally put the calipers and rotors back on. Connected soft lines to the hard ones (in the front)
Chose to gut the seatbelt interlock relay and connect the purple and Green/Black wire this way. It enabled me to keep the shell on the interlock so it looks factory-ish but it is still bypassed. We'll see if this works! Continuity tested fine.
Removed the booster and got it cleaned up.
blasted and not painted. I have it painted now but didn't grab a pic.
Master cylinder taken apart, cleaned and painted. Ready to be put back together and installed with the booster.
Steering gear box cleaned up and clear coated to keep the look of the cast.
All the steering is back together completely now! I have not been able to turn the steering wheel to move the tires in almost a year. Nice to have things going back on the car instead of taking it all off. Removed and cleaned up the wiper motor and got most (if not all) the wiring I can, connected correctly.
Each thing added is one step closer to getting this thing turning over again.
Last edited by Skootter14; Jun 6, 2021 at 02:23 PM.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Hi again.
Look at the picture on the right side of your picture, it plugs into the resistor. (52 to 52)
Where does it say to do that?
65A goes to the A/C relay
The male insulated terminal on the blower motor connects to the wire with the condenser. It brings power to the blower motor.
The other male terminal on the BM is screwed to the BM case and it is the ground wire.
Should only be 2 terminals. Got a picture of what you have?
On the passengers' side, along the edge of the fender, there is the 'discharge pressure switch' with a tan and dark green wire,
then the green goes to the back of the compressor and has a short black wire that is a ground for the compressor.
Look at the picture on the right side of your picture, it plugs into the resistor. (52 to 52)
Where does it say to do that?
65A goes to the A/C relay
The male insulated terminal on the blower motor connects to the wire with the condenser. It brings power to the blower motor.
The other male terminal on the BM is screwed to the BM case and it is the ground wire.
Should only be 2 terminals. Got a picture of what you have?
On the passengers' side, along the edge of the fender, there is the 'discharge pressure switch' with a tan and dark green wire,
then the green goes to the back of the compressor and has a short black wire that is a ground for the compressor.
This is how I hooked up the blower motor. “2”is the negative terminal. The red dash is the black wire with the capacitor that I hooked one end into the male terminal on the BM and the top part is plugged into the purple wire. Hope that makes sense. I’ll also post a pic of the ASM that says to cut the orange wire (for a ‘74 with A/C) from the engine harness that has a black wire with it, that wraps to the passenger side to the BM area.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Just remove the capacitor that bubba installed.
You're missing the stock 'pigtail'.
The orange wire plugs into the pigtail and the other end plugs into the insulated blower motor terminal.
The black ground wire plugs into the screwed terminal.
If you don't have the pigtail just plug the orange wire directly into the insulated terminal.
@Peterbuilt I see what you are saying plus the Wilcox pic but my book says to cut the orange. (which is strange to me, but when I took the old harness out, the purple connected to where you are saying the orange goes). I also think the black wire with the capacitor is the exact same thing you described as the pigtail that you thought I am missing. The wires look identical but I may have misunderstood what you were explaining! (and thank you for continuing to look over this with me, I really do appreciate it)
I also had this negative wire with 3 female terminals that I used to connect the ground wire from the engine harness (1) plus the blower motor ground (2) along with the negative on the A/C relay (3).
3 female terminals. You can see the one on the far left, that has a different black housing, connects to the engine harness ground (that is taped along the orange wire that I keep bringing up that the book says cut. And the pic of that orange wire with the black ground is listed above in post #59).
On a separate note,
Booster reinstalled. Took only 15 min-ish to install it. . .wish the removal was as quick. Once the master cylinder is back together and installed on booster I think I'll be ready to put the heart back in the car.
Last edited by Skootter14; May 6, 2021 at 11:03 PM.
Anyone care to comment on the order and direction these pistons get reinstalled? Worked with a friend who disassembled it and I was unable to see the order I need to reinstall everything. Googled a lot and I could not find a single pic or anything of the order these go in.
I do understand the silver rod goes into the booster and gets pressed on by the diaphragm when you push the brake pedal.
Which piston (Gold or “green” goes in first and which end, spring or nonspring end) goes first? Seems really dumb I couldn’t find it anywhere for a c3. Everyone just uploads replacing the entire thing. Not rebuilding it.
If this picture is of no help then start a new thread on the M/C.
From the '74 Service Manual.
I think you nailed it! By the position of the seals on the pistons, I can determine the order and orientation. You come through yet again!
Also I could only think of maybe that harness is used in another Chevy vehicle OR maybe in a non A/C car it serves a different purpose????
And maybe I'm wrong, but I hate starting a new thread just for a question when 99/100 times the answer (I would think) is already out there, people just don't look long enough to find it. I know in this case the pictures were no longer available which is a diff issue, but I try not to start new threads if its due to laziness and not searching long enough haha
Last edited by Skootter14; May 7, 2021 at 06:58 PM.
They were knew when I got the car, just very rusted on the surface from sitting out and never painted.
ils.
ils.
