You were asking where to connect the purple wire so here goes my 2 cents worth:


From the '74 service manual.

At the A/C Relay, the purple goes to 65B but I don't know what that is!
There looks like a splice to the dark blue wire that goes to the resistor.
Let's see if someone can help us get an answer.
You might want to PM Richard454 as he and others are better than me on wiring.

 

There is nothing wrong with starting a new thread since this thread is long,

I can't open the hood of my '74 because I have the '95 Jeep hardtop hanging over it.
Sometime over the weekend I'll take the Vette for a ride and check my wires.


From a few years ago, no snow here in the last or two.

 

I think that purple wire is oriented in the picture intentionally to show its connected to the BM, which is how I currently have it and the layout makes sense in the engine bay. It also further verifies the cutting of that orange wire at .25 length.

And you are correct that the other end of a purple wire is spliced with the blue. When I removed the tape on the harness to trouble shoot, I saw that factory splice.

I think your pic confirms everything

 

You can do a lot with those Jeeps on the offroad side

 

Almost there!



A few minor things and it’ll be ready for install.

 

Got the motor and xmsn reinstalled. They have been separated for about a year. Hopefully I can find the time and over a few more days, get it running again!






still have a good amount of work to do but it feels a lot closer to driving!

 

I wanted to throw this out there as I’ve seen people mention removing the dash to disconnect the tach cable from the rear of the tachometer.

I was able to get my wife to push the release clip and I pull the cable from the engine bay with the steering column removed. I find that much easier to deal with than the dash removal.

just throwing it out there: small hands had no issues pushing the release clip! It took me longer to remove the column (10 min-ish??) than it did for her to find and push the retaining clip in (and she’s never seen it before).



I did remove the column completely. IIRC it was just 3 bolts, 2 nuts, and a cotter pin.


Orig looks to be 20.5”




I think part of the square tip broke off at one time in the coupler. It is also rounded off. Hoping a new 22” cable and coupler will get it back to 100%.

 

And in with the new fuel tank. Also blasted and painted the support, straps, and hardware. Install was a pain by myself (and I did not use a jack) but it is do-able haha



New soft lines, hard lines were sprayed out with carb cleaner and 60psi for about 1.5 hrs. Long monotonous process but they definitely are cleaner than before. Power and grounds reinstalled. Fuel system should be complete.

 

Got this cleaned and rebuilt. First carb ever rebuilt so there’s that. Had a great friend provide guidance every step of the way. As well as help me clock the distributor prior to first start.





I even had a few spare parts left over!

 

Got a ton done this weekend. So close to starting it up for the first time.

 

Radiator in and hoses “hooked” up (top hose is sitting unclamped). Gotta slide the shroud in and I think that’s gonna cause me to unbolt the support so I can tip it forward IOT fit the shroud in.

That 4 row Champion radiator went in SO smooth. Had zero issues dropping it in place. Transmission hoses had no issues threading in.

so close I can taste it! Haha

 

It's looking gooood!

 

Thank you sir.

 

I agree with Doorgunner!
Very nice.

 

@OldCarBum Thank you!

Just about wrapped up the front end. Minor hoses to get in place and double check all the main components but she’s 99.8% there (in the front half haha)

 

First start up attempt Saturday. She started...then poured water from the heater core line at the hose connection. Had to remove the coolant resi, slide out the A/C contraption and accumulator out a little to make room to inspect the hoses. The 3/4" one was fine. Removed the 5/8" hose and realized the copper/brass (??) original downward oriented line had a "crimp" lengthwise down the hard line for about 1.5". It appeared to me that someone over tightened something way back and when I put the hose on it and worm clamed it, the rubber hose didnt seal completely around the tube ---> under pressure water found its way back UP through the opening and poured out.
"Fixed" it with a few random tools by pushing the crimped portion outward then found a similar sized handle on a punch and used that to reshape the hard line back to round. Clamped it all back up and ready for test 2.
Also ID'd a small fuel leak at the elbow and hard line at the fuel pump. Loosened then retightened that connection and hasnt dripped any since Saturday so that is hopefully fixed.
ID'd a leak in the P/S pump housing at the neck connection. I know i'll get a replacement one eventually but I think I found the tiny break in that seam and JB welded it just for a bandaid so I can hopefully run the motor for good today.
The big problem that I hit after the engine ran for 5 minutes was this pinging noise!!! I shut it off and looked everything over. (this was AFTER everything else was ID'd). Didnt find anything, so started it up again and instantly heard it so I turned it off again. Cracked open the valve covers and saw a rocker arm off! Checked all of rockers and found a few were almost loose enough to slide off the side by hand. I am wondering if the lifters were not soaked prior to install maybe??? leading them to lose tension once they filled when the motor was cranked (I think the term is "not primed"??).


One of these doesn’t look like the others.


Gonna relash everything this evening and hopefully take the car around the block!!!

fingers crossed

(EDIT: turns out we did prime it. In my learning, I forgot when we took an old/modified distributor and turned it with a drill…that was priming it. We think when the builders were setting the lash, the socket was bottoming out or something on the rocker arms as the center part of the arms were not as open as most (according to the guy helping me) and he noticed he could only fit a thin wall socket all the way down the nut. Only real possible explanation seeing how so many were looser than others).

 

Its been a week but its starting reliably every time! Found the leak at the heater core...turns out there was 1 or 2 pin hole leaks right near where the two tubes come through the firewall. By passed the heater core to test everything else and the car is running great! Gonna try and finally take it for a trip around the block tomorrow! I'll see if I cant get a sound clip on here of the idle.

 

Haven’t had any issues with her. Took apart the passenger half of dash to get the heater core out. While I have everything out I figured I’d blast all the metal parts on the heat box and repaint, grease the moving parts, and fab a new blender door lever out of aluminum since the plastic one broke.

Also cut out the additional speaker wires and aftermarket radio that didn’t work from behind the center of the dash.



Crack in HC line that caused the leaks.


Test fit the new one.


Bracket being made.


Ready to be riveted in place.


Got quite a bit to wash and clean up.


Vacuumed it out. Got 2 rat nests out; 1 with a mummified little rat left in it.

 

Its been awhile and I have made a ton of progress but have not updated any pics (I'm slacking). The car is running and driving (but was not braking). I finally broke down and bought a new MC after a friend and I honed the original one (I had already put a new seal kit in it). In my ignorance, the bore was too far pitted and would need sleeved as the hone, although did a good job for what it was, could not take it down enough for what needed to be done ---> sleeving it would be the right call but I'm not worried about leaving the MC original (its a 74 DD, nothing fancy). Put the new MC in after bench bleeding, gravity bled the lines in prep for real bleeding tomorrow.

My PS has never seemed to work since I got the car up and running (only driven it around the neighborhood, never on real roads yet due to numerous small ankle biter issues). I took the PS pump apart, replaced all seals, put it back together. Did the same with the control valve and the cylinder as well as replaced the four PS lines. What I never did (until today) was "center" the cylinder with the adjustment nut on the control valve. My question is this: would something as simple as adjusting the adjustment nut so the cylinder was "centered" (not going in or out when disconnected from the frame bracket and car idling) fix the "no PS" problem? I know it was something I should have done but just forgot to I guess. Before I tear the entire PS pump apart again, just figured I'd get some of your guys' thoughts if that simple move could have made the PS actually work.

(in my minds eye, I feel like MAYBE it could help bc maybe not having it adjusted properly could have let fluid pass through "un-checked" but if that were the case, I would think it would turn one way properly and the other would be difficult.......and I'm also not really buying that explanation either haha) What do you think? When I had the car idling this afternoon and felt all 4 hoses, it felt like fluid was moving as the cylinder arm was moving out but it could have also been my imagination.

 

The new MC leaked where it mated up with the brake booster so that was a dud. Returned it and waiting for the next new one to arrive.

In the mean time I worked on the PS issues. I ended up removing the assembly and checked out the flow control valve (after quite a few other’s posts regarding it causing issues. When I got disassembling that component, I was met with a check ball that was fixed onto the “stud” it rests on. Just touching it made it unstuck. I wiped all the parts down, blew out the mesh screen filter from both directions, blew down each piece individually just to make sure they were clean, and reassembled. I had not broken that piece down that far when I rebuilt the pump.






upon reassembly, I also removed 1 shim (out of 3) in a effort to help increase pressure. From what I read it looked like 3 shims was roughly 1000 psi and 2 would be around 1100-1200.

I filled the resi, cycled the steering 20 times. Check the level, started the car, cycled steering, cut it iff, checked and added fluid, let it sit for over an hour then added more to the “cold full” line. There were tiny tiny bubbles on the surface of fluid after it was running. I don’t remember them being there from previous runs so I’m hoping the flow is better and it’s a sign that fluid was actually circulating.

The steering “seemed” smoother but the wheels were off the ground. I felt the soft lines while it was running and could feel movement through the hoses. Tomorrow I’ll put tires back on and test the PS on the ground to see if it still takes 2 hands to turn the wheel at a stop. I’m really hoping that deep clean of the FCV fixed it. We’ll see tomorrow.