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you mentioned noise goes away when stepping on the clutch and 3-2 shift problems. the noise is trans spinning in neutral. step on clutch and throw out bearing spins and trans stops. check oil level in your trans. every tool you will need to do any job on this car costs less than the shop will charge to do the job. and you will still have the tools. Hell, a 1700 buck clutch job will buy you a quick jack.t his is not a drive-to-work car. did you buy this car so you could pay shops tons of money to fix it up?
Perfect advice, key turned off alarm..nice.. i had no clue there were two horns!
I'd take it to a good transmission shop, that can put fresh 90w in your four speed trans. Then they can do the job of getting rid of it too, plus they have the hose, with the hook, that makes it a lot easier to put it in, than what you could do under the car. Others here, might suggest doing it yourself, but I hate the smell of 90w. I think you have to align the shifter rods. Take a look at the link. And also, I replaced my factory shifter with a Hurst Shifter, it wasn't cheap ($600), but even after replacing all the rods and linkages on my factory shifter, it still shifted like a loose... (well, we'll leave that last part out.)
I even passed the spin down time and clutch wear test 😀
i think i found jack points..im gong to get under her and see whats up and some look see on drain fill manual transmission
ok jacked up went to change tranny fluid 80-90..open top, pinky in....NOTHING....
pissed now..go to dealer...get all my money back...for inspection etc long story short...not chump change.. Capacity 48 ounces 3 pints Pinky test nothing Top plug after touching it..all very fine Bottom plug worse as expected Got 20 ounces out so about 1/3 full Found speedometer heat shield lost rivet..lowes 4 imch ss worm clamp fo now
ok pics below how it went
my tip, toothbrush threads especially bottom magnetic in and out bolt and it screws in by hand....
Can anyone advise ptoper routing for temp cable? Will get some r12 soon and when i had console out before i thought odd it was routed as i tried to draw in pic..had to push on it seemed wrong to tuck it in..
also when i had gauge console out center the duct was loose that he vents hook into. Seems no matter the setting it blows on floor driver no defrost or vent.. thank you..will update r12 and this when console bulb comes.
Ok so after mamy trips to store to find an r12 gauge and manifold set, i realize NOTHING fits the vette high side fitting by the fender. I added a can of r12 to the low side by compressor as the accumulator low pressure is virtually impossible to get to.
7 pounds was still in system so i went try a couple cans r12.
low side pressure reads up to 35 when running after a can of on off on off..barely staying on and debating another can as the compressor or clutch is not sounding good... Hi side i assume? And one messed up sized fitting.. Low measurement and slow add
suggestions? Try my second can and see if starts to blow cold? Let the compressor implode? Or maybe it smooths out after being low for many years not running?
and btw where in the heck does the high side pressure go? No adapter or anything fits the line by the fender...wth? To even see my high side
Two weeks into owning a C3 and you already have it blowing (some) cold air? Wow! I'm two years into two C3s, and I've never had a working AC system.
Figuring R-134a was in my future no matter what, I bought an appropriate manifold, and some R-12 to R-134a adaptors. You may be able to get a right-angle adaptor to give you the clearance you need to screw on your gauge, and the remote hoses on the manifold might make it easier, too.
It was moot in both of my cars, both were long dead/empty, but the 80 had a different hose arrangement than the 79 that seemed easier to work with. I don't know the other implications of switching from 79 to 80 components, but if you may want to look into using 80 hoses if you end up replacing them anyway. I figure I'll go with Vintage Air if my wife ever needs AC in her car. So far it hasn't been a problem.
Ill switch to why im only getting air on floor. Read all the posts and a few conclusions mainly vacuum leak etc..
im not so lucky but did manage to see my remp cable adjust was not moving to full cold, and not hitting switch which according to manual triggers the water to stop flowing through heater core...that would be helpful!
moved very hard too..slathered silicone paste and constantly with lever in one hand and door lever in other got it back and forth smoother..still tight.
that .01 to .02 adjustment on temp lever is a non starter for me i need to adjust like an inch so it will fully close and trigger switch..maybe only downside is less heat but i want that water off while i stockpile r12 and pit on new compressor..it runs but about to implode...that dryer looks impossible to remove..
well a test drive confirms not as hot...also im getting a hiss now at my control console area...maybe that water cut off stirred something?
well i guess control take apart and regrease to see if that gets my vents back
Last edited by interpon; Jun 23, 2019 at 02:36 PM.
Two weeks into owning a C3 and you already have it blowing (some) cold air? Wow! I'm two years into two C3s, and I've never had a working AC system.
Figuring R-134a was in my future no matter what, I bought an appropriate manifold, and some R-12 to R-134a adaptors. You may be able to get a right-angle adaptor to give you the clearance you need to screw on your gauge, and the remote hoses on the manifold might make it easier, too.
It was moot in both of my cars, both were long dead/empty, but the 80 had a different hose arrangement than the 79 that seemed easier to work with. I don't know the other implications of switching from 79 to 80 components, but if you may want to look into using 80 hoses if you end up replacing them anyway. I figure I'll go with Vintage Air if my wife ever needs AC in her car. So far it hasn't been a problem.
