How do you paint headers?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2020
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From: Kannapolis NC
How do you paint headers?
I was watching a show and saw a set of headers painted black. I would like to do that to mine. Do I just use high temp paint? I would expect the headers to get over 500 degrees and high temp paint to fail. But, I don't really know. Do I take them and get them powder coated? Hoping I can do it myself, but don't want it to look like crap after 100 miles.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
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No powder coating , it's like plastic.
In auto parts stores they have header paint that is good for 1200 f degrees but you have to get the surface really clean. The best bet is to look up header ceramic. Coatings. You may have someone local that does it. Jet Hot will do it if you send them in but can cost $400 plus dollars depending on length. If you search ceramic header coatings there was a thread these last 2 weeks about this subject t
In auto parts stores they have header paint that is good for 1200 f degrees but you have to get the surface really clean. The best bet is to look up header ceramic. Coatings. You may have someone local that does it. Jet Hot will do it if you send them in but can cost $400 plus dollars depending on length. If you search ceramic header coatings there was a thread these last 2 weeks about this subject t
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Crossville TN
VHT spray paint (very high temperature) has colors that are good up to 1200*F or so. Seymour spray paint has colors going up to 2000*F. Both of these brands actually get their FULL cure from manifold heating with an operating engine.
Prep is to shot/bead blast the parts; wipe/wash them down with a solvent which does not leave any residue; then shoot two covering coats of paint on the items and allow them to air dry. Assemble them to the engine carefully to prevent damage/scratches, as paint has NOT fully cured. Run the engine at normal operating temps and then at 'working' temps to fully cure the paint. Seymour is a REALLY smoky, stinky curing paint. But it is GREAT STUFF once it is cured (4-6 hours of running time).
Prep is to shot/bead blast the parts; wipe/wash them down with a solvent which does not leave any residue; then shoot two covering coats of paint on the items and allow them to air dry. Assemble them to the engine carefully to prevent damage/scratches, as paint has NOT fully cured. Run the engine at normal operating temps and then at 'working' temps to fully cure the paint. Seymour is a REALLY smoky, stinky curing paint. But it is GREAT STUFF once it is cured (4-6 hours of running time).
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Pro
Joined: Feb 2020
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From: Kannapolis NC
What grit would you use to bead blast the headers? I have a friend that has the tools, but I have to buy the media.
DaGuvner - do you have a bigger picture of that hood emblem in your avatar? Where did you get it? I have been thinking about what I should do on mine. I was thinking about a vinyl sticker that says "LS-383", but that one looks pretty cool.
DaGuvner - do you have a bigger picture of that hood emblem in your avatar? Where did you get it? I have been thinking about what I should do on mine. I was thinking about a vinyl sticker that says "LS-383", but that one looks pretty cool.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Cerakote ceramic paint does a really nice job and you don't have to bake it. You do have to clean them good and blasting is preferred. it is the system I used on mine about 5-6 years ago and still looks new.
Cerakote Link
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Cerakote Link
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Last edited by Buccaneer; May 18, 2020 at 02:37 PM.
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Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Crossville TN
Ceramic coated = C-note$ Nice, if you can afford it.
VHT or Seymour spray paints = less than $20
You don't have to bead blast it to get them clean. That's just the easiest/best way to make sure the surface is free of corrosion, etc. You could either wire-brush them or [if smooth surface] use fine steel wool. Then use a no-residue solvent and shoot away.
VHT or Seymour spray paints = less than $20
You don't have to bead blast it to get them clean. That's just the easiest/best way to make sure the surface is free of corrosion, etc. You could either wire-brush them or [if smooth surface] use fine steel wool. Then use a no-residue solvent and shoot away.
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Joined: Feb 2020
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From: Kannapolis NC
I see 80 grit glass media for $40 and $25 of the VHT paint is probably enough to get it done. It's not a show car, I just want it to look better. I think that's the route I will take.
Any suggestions of a brand of no-residue solvent? That's not something I have laying around the garage right now, so I will have to buy that.
Any suggestions of a brand of no-residue solvent? That's not something I have laying around the garage right now, so I will have to buy that.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2016
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From: Woodinville WA
Just pay a sandblasting place to bead blast it.
Then do the VHT paint; the instructions tell you to heat it up to a certain lower temperature for 20 minutes, then let it cool for 20, then heat it to a higher temp for 30 minutes, then cool for 30 min. Then heat it to an even higher temp for 40 minutes then let it cool for 40 minutes to cure it.
-It also says it puts off toxic fumes so don't do it in your house, but....
Adam
Then do the VHT paint; the instructions tell you to heat it up to a certain lower temperature for 20 minutes, then let it cool for 20, then heat it to a higher temp for 30 minutes, then cool for 30 min. Then heat it to an even higher temp for 40 minutes then let it cool for 40 minutes to cure it.
-It also says it puts off toxic fumes so don't do it in your house, but....
Adam
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From: North Central IL.
I found the "383 Stroker" emblem on ebay. Here's the link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/383-Stroker...ss!20876!US!-1
It is made of molded plastic and had been chromed in areas, 4 inches by 1 inch and fit perfectly on the side rise of my stock 76 hood.
I had my body shop shoot them with a high quality clear coat for uv protection. Also I think (from my memory) I had purchased a high quality 3M body molding adhesive roll, applied to the back, and trimmed to fit with an exact-o knife.
It is made of molded plastic and had been chromed in areas, 4 inches by 1 inch and fit perfectly on the side rise of my stock 76 hood.
I had my body shop shoot them with a high quality clear coat for uv protection. Also I think (from my memory) I had purchased a high quality 3M body molding adhesive roll, applied to the back, and trimmed to fit with an exact-o knife.
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From: South of giving a damn
St. Jude Donor '11, '17
I see 80 grit glass media for $40 and $25 of the VHT paint is probably enough to get it done. It's not a show car, I just want it to look better. I think that's the route I will take.
Any suggestions of a brand of no-residue solvent? That's not something I have laying around the garage right now, so I will have to buy that.
Any suggestions of a brand of no-residue solvent? That's not something I have laying around the garage right now, so I will have to buy that.
Xylene, if you can get it in your state.
Old Pro Solo Guy
Joined: Dec 2017
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From: Marlton NJ
I used aluminum colored Bill Hirsch Manifold paint 30 years ago on my LT-1 headers. Good for 2000 degrees.
Never touched them up at all, still looked great.
https://www.hirschauto.com/EXHAUST-A...nfo/EMPT-PINT/
Must be similar to the Seymour mentioned above, lots of fumes for a few hours til it final cured.
Never touched them up at all, still looked great.
https://www.hirschauto.com/EXHAUST-A...nfo/EMPT-PINT/
Must be similar to the Seymour mentioned above, lots of fumes for a few hours til it final cured.