Well, that didn’t last long. I got the seats out and managed to get the left front body mount bolt off. Most of the threads from the retaining nut were still on the bolt when I got it out, but it came out. So onto the left rear body mount bolt. I knew it wouldn’t be good when that pocket was filled with a 1/4” of rust crumbs. The socket fits sloppy on the bolt head, so I’m afraid to put too much pressure on it for fear that I’ll round the head. Any tips or tricks for getting these out?

 

Good day. Seats are out. The seat belt backing plates have definitely seen better days. I didn’t realize how rusted they were. Of course, the bottom facing the road had multiple layers of undercoating on it, but the side facing the floor boards, never touched and layers of rust flakes, to the point where there are holes that were never designed to be there.






Also got the radiator out and some of the bumper supports. I still have to figure out what all needs to come out with that radiator support frame. I’m afraid because some of those bolts look more like rust than bolt.



So, I made decent progress today. We will see if I can get those rear body mount bolts out tomorrow. There isn’t much room in that pocket. I can’t get a 1/2” universal joint in there, because the angle isn’t enough to try to use an impact gun. So I’m still not sure how to get those body bolts out.

 

So most of the front bumper is off. The frame horn to bumper supports are out, the center bumper support is out. Making progress.



I started looking at getting the radiator core support out, and noticed it was pretty ugly. I tried to take the lower support bolt out and the head snapped of. Nothing new. Not the first time that has happened on my car. With the bolt out, I can see the full scope of bubba work done. Not only did the previous owner weld over the core support with 1/4” steel, he welded it directly to the frame horn. And even welded the washer to the frame. Thank you sir, may I have another! Now I have to cut it out. No hope for salvaging it now, not that the giant rust holes didn’t already make that decision for me.

 

You are much better off getting a 69-up radiator support and a larger aluminum radiator. All 68's had cooling problems. This car was GM's first "bottom breather". Look at a 63-67 Corvette and you have a huge open front grille to cool the radiator.
Our C-3's have two headlights blocking the air flow and then a front license plate too! Our cooling air only comes in through the two lower chin holes that the front spoiler supplies with air. Lou.

 

In Ohio, starting on July 1, there is no longer a front license plate requirement. I'm sure I was grandfathered in with a 1968 car, but I can assure you that the big flat, front license plate holder will not be going back on my car. That front grill looks cleaner without it anyway. Plus the additional airflow. Also with the aluminum radiator that I already have, I should have no problem with cooling.

Since I have a 1972 frame, that is a fantastic idea about the 69 core support. I was worried about having to cut those frame horns, because the 68's are one inch longer than the 69+ cars. With that radiator core support, and the front frame extensions from a 69, I can make what I have work without modifying that 72 frame. That drastically simplifies this project. I had to replace the radiator core support anyway, and the frame extensions have seen better days, so I won't be upset replacing those. Especially if it saves me from cutting and welding this new frame.

 

I am very glad that I have helped you out on this frame issue. Someone mentioned that the 68 outer frame extensions, what I call "dog legs", that go to the outer front bumper had a different part number. So they may be a different length than the 69 one's.
Mine are long gone since I changed my frame to a GM replacement 68-74 frame in 1989 with my wife's help three months before they were discontinued.

They changed the outer frame extensions for the 70-72's. It angles up higher to meet that outer bumper bolt at the same height and has a "U" shaped bracket. Not the long angled bracket that the 68 and 69 use.
The 68-69 extensions are lower and if you hit something, the whole front bumper bends upward. Don't ask me how I know this, LOL. My company also made these outer frame extensions and original one's have the circle with the MTD letters stamped in them.

You will also have to buy a new pair of the 69-72 front frame extensions that bolt to the front frame horns. Lou.

 

I’m realizing how rusted this car actually is. It took almost an hour to get the rear bumper support bolts out. The back 2 body bolts behind the rear wheel well are fully rusted. The cage around the top nuts spun off, and it’s real awkward to try to get a wrench on those square nuts down in a hole. Nothing but fun. Makes me glad I’m doing this, because some of the stuff I’m finding is actually scary. I’ll feel much better when everything is back together properly.

I started cleaning and stripping the front bumper support, and found your MTD stamp, clear as day, Lou. Thanks again for your help.

 

I am glad that I could help you out, Bill. Trust me, after owning my car for 48 years, anything that could break did! I just rolled over 125,000 on my "beater".
Did you read my post "Long time chrome bumper owner speaks"?
Also MTD made the two ribbed birdcage panels behind the C-3 seats. You have a nice picture showing them.
Cleveland salt in winter sure rusts everything up. You know that the International Salt mine on Whiskey island downtown is where they get it from under Lake Erie. Lou.

 

Getting closer to removing the body from the frame. Hopefully this weekend. But I got one of my larger orders of parts in and started fitting some things. Only to realize that the front bumper side supports are one year only in 68. So there's another $150 ($75 per side) to order new bumper supports. But I was just test fitting stuff on the "new" frame to see how it was going to work out. I can also see I'm going to have to fabricate some kind of custom bracket for the top of the fan shroud if I want my 68 shroud to fit this new 69 radiator core support. So this is essentially a 72 frame, with 69 front frame extensions, 69 front crossmember, 69 radiator core support, and now I am going to have to get the 69 side bumper supports. I'm realizing just how much one year only stuff there is on a 68...

 

Well, I wasn’t sure how I was going to get body mount bolts 1, 2 and 3 out on the right side of my car (I managed to get both 4’s, plus 1,2 and 3 on the left side out normally). Fortunately, my neighbor is a mechanic with nice toys. One of his toys is a plasma cutter, which works surprisingly well to cut off the heads of those body bolts. Fortunately, those big body washers under the bolt head kept the plasma cutter from going through anything it shouldn’t. Here’s my neighbor cutting out bolt 3 on the right side



And once the bolt head was cut out, here’s the pocket for number 3:

 

Here’s all of the recent fun. First of all, I figured out my car was hit in the left rear (prior to me owning it). My first indication was trying to remove the left outer frame to bumper brace. All bolts removed, and the piece just stuck there, suspended in mid air. Turns out someone fiberglass welded that brace into place. Couldn’t be bothered to remove 3 bolts before glassing over it. Then I found the center bumper braces were bent on the left side. The top brace is from the right side. The center brace is the bent one and the bottom most is the new replacement. Not bent terribly bad, but enough that I don’t like it and I wouldn’t put it back on the car that way.


Then there are the center most braces. Top is the right side, middle is the new replacement (note it looks very closely shaped to the original on the top), and the bottom one is the bubba brace. It is about 1/2” off from the others. It has been cut, extended and welded to fit the crash damage.


And here is today’s discovery. Why would I think the left bumper mounting brace wouldn’t be crushed? It is not supposed to be mushroomed out and bent like that. Everything should be in a nice 90 degrees from each other. What I don’t know is if I should try straightening this one out or buy a new one. The knock offs are not an option, so that means this is a $500+ replacement part. What do you guys think?

 

I would try straightening it out or look for a good used one. The repop bumpers have had a lot of complaints over the years since I joined

 

I figured I had nothing to lose by attempting to fix it. It wasn’t as difficult as I thought. A hammer, punch and some vice grips was enough. It turned out better than I was expecting. Not bad for a complete amateur hack. And cheaper to rechrome it than buy a new one. Best I can figure, someone must have backed into an immovable object, or it was a very low speed impact. There’s only minor scratches on the outside of the bumper.

 

Hey dont be so down on yourself, youre not an amateur........

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't it appear that whoever put my car back together previously did it "backwards"? By backwards, I mean that rear exhaust panel is supposed to be behind the license plate section in the upper panel, not sitting on top of the license plate panel. If you look at my lower exhaust panel, it sits about 3/8 of an inch above the upper body panel. That has been bothering me for a while now. But it wasn't until today that I noticed, in the center of the license plate cutout in that upper body panel. Look where the 2 panels meet, and there is a round cutout in that upper panel, and it is behind the exhaust panel. Why would they have put that round cutout there if that exhaust panel wasn't supposed to be behind the upper panel?

Am I seeing this correctly? Did the previous owner put that exhaust panel on top of, instead of behind, that upper body panel?

 

Bill, I just checked my car and you are absolutely correct! Good catch! Just that license plate area on the exhaust panel is installed behind the body panel. Kind of strange but that is the way it goes.
There is a slight indentation or cutout on each side of the body to allow the exhaust panel to go behind and then the pair of flat supports go behind the exhaust panel to secure it. And yes, that is why that round cutout is
there to clear the round bump in the middle. Glad that I could help you out. Lou.

 

Nice thread.
All the pictures are great.
Thanks for sharing.

 

Thanks again, for your help, Lou. I appreciate you confirming that for me. There are some cracks in that exhaust panel, so I am going to put some fiberglass reinforcements behind the panel. I may even take it to a body shop and have them repaint it. The problems I am finding keep adding up. And I still haven’t taken the body off the frame yet!

 

I just got my trailing arms back from the shop. Only took 3 months, which honestly, is fine. All shiny and new. New bearings, all stainless brake parts, powder coated, and poly bushings. Rotors were turned and painted too. Very happy with the results! Project has stalled a little. I still haven’t gotten the body off the frame yet, but hoping to get back on track soon!

 

Is the shop that rebuilt these Bairs?