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I’m wondering what I just got myself into. I bought a frame today. I’m not afraid of the work, but this is keeping me up! I can’t sleep. A little back story, I broke the differential mount on my frame. So the car has been sitting almost a year while I figured out what I was going to do. I always knew the frame was in pretty bad shape, but I tried my best to keep it drivable by attempting to rustproof it. And that worked for 20 year’s or so that I’ve owned it. I just bought this yesterday, and I can’t stop thinking about all the parts I need to buy! Anyway, wish me luck. I am under no illusion that this won’t be at least a year long project, probably more! I know this is not an original 68 frame, but I’m OK with the extra support, besides it being in much better shape than what’s currently on my car.
I know it doesn’t seem like a huge step, but psychologically it is to me. I now have a rolling chassis. The frame is no longer on jack stands. But I had to push the body to the side to give me enough room to put one of the rear tires on. And when it was rolling sideways on the body dolly, one of the castors fell into the drain pipe. Scared the **** out of me. I thought the whole body was about to fall over! Fortunately it didn’t fall far and it was light enough that I could lift it out of the drain and back into solid ground. So this is just a small win, but feels like a big deal. Yeah my garage is a mess, but it’s an organized mess.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
good luck...I would just buy the stuff you cant salvage from you existing frame and build it to the point that you need to start taking apart your car...
I am under no illusion that this won’t be at least a year long project, probably more!
Been there and understand the stress and anxiety involved. My "project" took three years, nine months and five days along with numerous sleepless nights freaking out about the stuff the might go wrong. In the end, with the help of this forum, it all came together. Good luck.
Set clear goals/objectives and stick to them. If you are building a safe, driver vehicle DO NOT go buying a lot of 'new' parts...refurbish / clean up the old ones that are still serviceable.
Whatever your intent, plan what you really NEED to get that done. DO NOT go for more expense than you NEED to meet your goals / objectives.
In reality, cleaning up the original parts...even though they are used and have lots of miles on them...usually gives you better quality parts in the end. Today's replacement parts are junk...even those coming in a GM box (from overseas).
Set clear goals/objectives and stick to them. If you are building a safe, driver vehicle DO NOT go buying a lot of 'new' parts...refurbish / clean up the old ones that are still serviceable.
Whatever your intent, plan what you really NEED to get that done. DO NOT go for more expense than you NEED to meet your goals / objectives.
In reality, cleaning up the original parts...even though they are used and have lots of miles on them...usually gives you better quality parts in the end. Today's replacement parts are junk...even those coming in a GM box (from overseas).
I’m already feeling “scope creep”. Fortunately, I’ve done a lot of work already. The whole front suspension has been rebuilt, repainted and restored, so that will just be clean and move. the trailing arms are another story. I’m also looking at brake lines. Replace all or clean originals? Things like that... I am just replacing the frame. Car is a driver, not a car to be judged. I just want it to be safe and better than what I have now. And my original frame is the early without the extra supports. So I figured they added those for a reason and it would be better. Besides, a 72 frame was easier to find than a 68.
thanks for the tips. Just starting to buy things now. Body lift straps ordered.
If it is to be a driver car, don't spend a lot of time and money on making the things that can't [normally] be seen looking like a show car...wasted effort and wasted money. Focus on spending time and money making it SAFE and FUNCTIONAL. Brakes, steering suspension (stock only, please...it's fine and it won't cost $$$) and drive train are the important issues for a driver car.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I would replace the brake lines with stainless steel. Same with the fuel lines.. you'll never have to touch them again. If you ever might go to efi i would maybe change the 1/4 inch return line to whatever the efi companies usually use...3/8 maybe..
I just wanted to mention that the 68 front frame "horns" and original 68 frame horn extensions have a different hole pattern than the 69-72 extensions and frame horns.
68 Radiator supports mount differently than 69-72. Lou.
I just wanted to mention that the 68 front frame "horns" and original 68 frame horn extensions have a different hole pattern than the 69-72 extensions and frame horns.
68 Radiator supports mount differently than 69-72. Lou.
I was already expecting that there might be some differences in the frame horn. I was already thinking I might have to drill holes in the front. For the bumper mounts, I think.
Good to know about the radiator supports. I’ll definitely look at those. Fortunately I have access to a plasma cutter and MIG welder, so this frame will work one way or another.
I got the body dolly mostly built today and just set it on the “new” frame. Lifting straps are in the mail, and the Zip cart keeps getting fuller!
Thank you for all of the tips, everyone. It’s already making me think ahead.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
the big block/ automatic small block radiator support fits between the frame rails where the later models sits in front of the frame rail effectively giving you more radiator surface area...I just replace my small block standard transmission support for the big block one and used the Dewitts big block 67-68 radiator...stays at 185 on a hot day, all day regardless of traffic or engine rpms with an electric fan and Derale controller. I dont know what direction you are going for cooling but the big block radiattor is a great solution for cooling needs..along with all the seals of course...Speaking of theres seals all over the place in there..its amazing really
the big block/ automatic small block radiator support fits between the frame rails where the later models sits in front of the frame rail effectively giving you more radiator surface area...I just replace my small block standard transmission support for the big block one and used the Dewitts big block 67-68 radiator...stays at 185 on a hot day, all day regardless of traffic or engine rpms with an electric fan and Derale controller. I dont know what direction you are going for cooling but the big block radiattor is a great solution for cooling needs..along with all the seals of course...Speaking of theres seals all over the place in there..its amazing really
About 3 or 4 years ago, I put in a BeCool aluminum radiator, replacing an original copper core radiator that had sprung several leaks. I also replaced the frame seals. Since adding that radiator, I can idle all day long without the engine overheating. I don’t remember exactly, but I’m pretty sure I put in a 160 degree thermostat when I rebuilt the engine about 10 year’s ago. I could probably replace it with a 180, because I put in the 160 to try to compensate for a weak radiator. I also still have the original clutched fan and shroud. I’m pretty happy with how the cooling system works since putting in the aluminum radiator. So I will just move what I have to the new frame, once I make sure the lower radiator mounts line up.
The 69-72 front frame extensions are available. I would just buy a new pair. That way you do not have to cut holes in the newer frame. Makes sense to me.
I really do not understand why GM changed the frame extensions and hole locations for 69-72. Lou.
I don't know exactly where you are in Ohio, I'm southwest near Oxford. If you want a hand with some parts of your project, let me know. I have a machine shop and fabrication tooling. I'm in the process of taking my 71 off the frame. so will be doing similar things soon. I have a large blasting cabinet and powder coating area. In the process of building a paint booth in part of my building.
I don't know exactly where you are in Ohio, I'm southwest near Oxford. If you want a hand with some parts of your project, let me know. I have a machine shop and fabrication tooling. I'm in the process of taking my 71 off the frame. so will be doing similar things soon. I have a large blasting cabinet and powder coating area. In the process of building a paint booth in part of my building.
I know exactly where you are. My son is going to apply to Miami this fall. He’s a senior in high school. Unfortunately, you are about 4 hours away from me. I live near the west side of Cleveland. That would be nice to have another resource. My neighbor is a mechanic and has a small sand blasting booth and cutting & fabrication tools. But no paint booth. That would be nice. The guy I bought this frame from painted it brown (no idea why), so some way or another, I have to make it black. I’m debating whether to paint over it or strip it and powder coat it. Obviously painting over it is the path of least resistance.
On one of my trips to Miami, I may have to see if we can coordinate something.
I set up at the Canfield swap meet twice a year. Spring was cancelled but Fall is still on they tell me. I'm at spot 969 and 970 across from the log house near the road.
68 frame off restoration
