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Every thread on this forum found by using the search functions states the master and booster have to come out.
This summer I was going to remove my tank to clean and paint it and that area. After twisting it this way, that way, and every which way I could manage I gave up trying to get it out because I didn't want to remove the master or booster. No way I was going to remove the booster just for cleaning the vac tank!
This vacuum canister is a pain......I seriously am thinking of removing and bypassing it on my 69 rebuild. It takes up alot of room, and probably inhibits underhood ventilation.
Getting rid of the vacuum system altogether and replacing headlights and wiper system with Detroit Speed electric , justifying to get more room in engine compartment .
Will all the vacuum operated components function properly with the vacuum tank bypassed? Assuming the engine is running.
The wiper door and the headlights should work off direct engine vacuum supply.
The main purpose of the tank is to act as a reserve vacuum source so you can operate your wipers and/or headlights if the engine should quit.
Not entirely sure about the logic there, but that was the thinking in 1967/68 timeframe.
If you bypass the tank, and I have tried it, both sets of doors will operate as long as the engine is running. If you forget to turn your lights off after you shut down the engine, the lights would turn off (electric) but the will stay in the up position due to lack of vacuum. Same with the wipers. The arms will stop wiping and go to park, but the door will likely stay open (Not 100% on that one, the door may close when the right arm hits the vacuum switch, which may dump the vacuum to atmosphere and allow the door to close??)
I'm also not sure if there would be any effect on engine running performance if you operated either wipers or headlights, and drew direct vacuum from the engine, as opposed to the tank.
Getting rid of the vacuum system altogether and replacing headlights and wiper system with Detroit Speed electric , justifying to get more room in engine compartment .
Nope - the master cylinder and PB cannister have to be removed. Maybe removing the inner fender would be an option.
If you don't need the vacuum cannister, a Sawzall can be used to remove it. However, before you decide to damage it, know that this canister in good condition has a good resell value.....maybe about $300.
The vacuum reservoir tank is there to allow full operation of the vacuum operated systems under any engine operating condition. When you have WOT, there is very little vacuum, but the tank maintains near-manifold vacuum during that 'negative-vacuum' period. There was no real consideration about operating the vacuum systems because the engine quit....other than to turn off lights immediately after shutting down the engine.
Ha Ha!
I sure would not want to on a sustained 140mph run in the dark at WOT and have my headlights suddenly go down!
Agreed! Then again, at that speed, you're probably out-driving your headlight range anyway!
But (not sure), I don't think the headlights will close if there is a loss of vacuum. I think they need vacuum to open, and also to close. I'd go out to the garage and verify, but mine is out of commission for another week or so.
But (not sure), I don't think the headlights will close if there is a loss of vacuum. I think they need vacuum to open, and also to close. I'd go out to the garage and verify, but mine is out of commission for another week or so.
That's correct. Once up, they'll stay up until the valve switches ports so vacuum can pull them down.
I can offer a little diagram I'm working on for my vacuum setup. I'm using a CVR vacuum pump but the pipe routing would be very similar excluding the vacuum source - you will pull vacuum from your carb or intake manifold. Actually, this would be a very good time to include my question about the CVR accumulator and how it should be piped. Please pardon me if it seems I'm bombing your thread - those are not my intentions. Here is the pic: