Do I think you should replace the starter? Wouldn't that be wonderful if that's what it was? Or cheaper yet, just the solenoid.

But what if you do all that and nothing helped? Now you are out $150. That's where diagnostics come into play. Ohm meters, test lights, jumper wire, etc.

What if its a free repair? There are several GRD points on C3s. In a situation like yours, No Crank / New Battery, those ground connections would be a great place to start. Removal, wire brush, assemble.
But most of these Starting Circuits are underneath the car. The Fusible Links are near the starter and could cause your issue. You have to get this car up in the air regardless. You need to be able to diagnose the Fusible Links. (they seldom go bad).

You already threw a new battery in and now want to buy a starter. Only you can decide which is cheaper:
throwing parts or towing parts.

 

so guys how do you fix this?? gas down the carb, fuses bad grounds, etc are not the answer
Original Poster I sure hope you get this fixed-

 

"bad grounds not the answer" ?????

I beg to differ. Bad GRDs on C3s are likely 90% of all electrical issues. Why? Glass bodies.
So, there are extra GRD straps, wires, cables everywhere. Why? Glass bodies.

Any of the GRD connections that are corroded from 40+ yrs will still allow lights to work, stereo to work, blower fan to work and Dome light to come on. But will not allow a starter to rotate or even click sometimes.

Just some of the grounds to check:
(More under dash, on engine, etc. Keep in mind the engine mounts and tranny mounts are rubber)

NEG battery post. (of course)
NEG Grd battery cable at rear frame.
Grd strap on block.
Grd strap on front frame.
Sometimes the starters support bracket.

So you see, a good GRD will get you a ways. A great GRD will get you everything.

 

I love my Power Probe III. I've had it for five years and it's surprising, how often I have it out, with these cars. It can check the whole fuse box in seconds. In fact, just last month, I had a 20A fuse, that blew in the end cap of the fuse, making it look good visually, but dead electrically/ Touching one end of the probe to that fuse showed it solid green, but the other end went red. I pulled it and ohm'd it with a multimeter and sure enough, it was bad. It detects poor grounds instantly, giving you an intermittent tone, instead of a solid one. I fixed a dune buggy at my friends shop in ten minutes with this. I ran the power probe against the power panel and I got a broken up tone on every circuit. Bad ground for sure. Went straight to the negative battery ground with the Power Probe and saw that it was dirty and corroded. Touched it and sure enough broken up tone. Cleaned it and everything came to life.

Then it wouldn't start. Simple VW engine and I applied the probe to the coil while it was starting. Nothing, no 12V at all. I had my friends crank it and applied 12V to the coil with the Power Probe III and it started instantly. Electrical is not easy. Sure a multimeter works, but the Power Probe is far superior. I can directly apply 12V or Ground anywhere on the car, because it is a part of the car's electrical system. Best $82 I ever spent. That and the GM Service Manual, because it has the complete wiring diagram for the car. The plastic laminated and colored wire diagram from various vendors is a very good source too.

One should know how to diagnose electrical problems from either experience or the willingness to understand how a car's electrical system works. This can be done, here on the forum, but only with great difficulty and especially even harder, when the OP doesn't have a clear understanding of even the basics, or the tools to do the job right. Again, this is a new breed of people buying these cars. Many of my milennial coworkers buy newer muscle, because they can be diagnosed and fixed at the dealership. You can't do that with our C3's. Best of luck to the OP. Now that you own the car, please buy the Readers Digest book and educate yourself completely or this car will slay your wallet and your time with abandon.

 

This is not a place you want to spend a lot of time at...

 

all great info, but if it wont turn over by hand how will this help??

 

See post 38. Have not tried that yet. (to turn engine over by hand)

 

If the solenoid has a bad ground, or power connection, won't it partially engage, and make a horrible sound?

I absolutely agree, turn the engine over by hand and see how that goes.

My 80 had a random no-start gremlin. Here's the likely culprit, the starter extension harness had burned the insulation off of the fusable links, but hadn't visually failed, yet. I bought the L82 replacement, which comes with wiring for a block temperature switch, but costs the same as the L48 version.
https://www.zip-corvette.com/80-l82-...n-harness.html