Help!!!
Can you hear a click or anything out near the starter when you turn the key?
Unfortunately I have an older vette so I'm not familiar with your system and hopefully someone will pop in now with some actual help as to where to look on your particular year.
M





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"ok for sure i’ll try to put some fuel in and try to start it up! thank you!"
This is a perfect example of what I've been giving thought to recently. If the starter is not turning, there is no amount of fuel that will get this car to run!
I'm glad he's coming here for help, but I'd bet that he's a guy who just got one of these cars and now wants to know how to deal with this. Not that it's a bad thing, but now we've got a new crowd of people picking up these C3's and they may not have the knowledge, the tools and the werewithal that a lot of us members here have, growing up with analog, carb'd automobiles that are decades and decades old.
And then we end up trying to give them a 25 post thread educating them and all the aspects of this problem. And it's likely that they don't have the Service Manual, or a test light, a multimeter and a good set of tools. We should ask, what is your level of mechanical and electrical competence? Do you have a multimeter or test light? Do you know your way around an electrical schematic? If you had to trace the pink wire to the neutral safety switch to see if there's continuity across the switch, can you do that? And start with the green and black striped wire that comes off there (if memory serves me correct).
Secondly, they picked one of the hardest vintage Chevy products to work on, especially under the dash! The solution could be as easy as jiggling the key, or cleaning the battery connectors, or it could be something you have to track down, bit by bit. Maybe we should have a sticky with the facts of owning these cars. Because nobody is going to work on them for you for free and many mechanics distance themselves from these cars, because they know how tough it is to work on them. Or you're going to need a whole lot of education on how a 1970's GM Ignition System works from the ignition switch push rod that engages the switch on top of the steering column all the way to the spark plug boot.
None of this is common knowledge anymore. Especially the carbs. We were talking about that yesterday at my old industrial center, that it's hard to find someone to rebuild carbs well, anymore (and I say well, because it's even harder to find someone good at it!). The Service Manual is an absolute, no kidding, must have, owning one of these cars!
Why, because it breaks it all down! If this gent had it, the manual lays it all out! Source: GM 1974 Chevrolet Service Manual: Section Engine. Page 6-57 Diagnosis.
"Engine Fails To Start"
a. Corroded or loose battery terminal connections and/or weak battery.
b. Broken or loose ignition wire and/or faulty ignition switch.
c. Excessive moisture on plusgs, caps or ignition system.
d. Damaged distributor rotor, cracked distributor cap and/or corroded distributor contact points.
e. Fouled spark plugs and/or improper spark plug gap.
f. Weak or faulty coil.
g. Carb flooded and/or fuel level in carburetor bowl not correct.
h. Dirt and water in gas line or carb.
i. Sticking Choke.
j. Faulty fuel pump.
k. Faulty solenoid or starting motor.
Personally, I would've but "k" behind 'k', because 'c' through 'j', imply the engine is turning. With 'k' faulty solenoid or starting motor, the engine is not going to turn. A test light and somebody turning the switch by the starter and seeing if there's 12v there would tell you right away. Or better yet ,a remote starter and see if the engine even cranks, and there's a ton of You Tube videos and images showing how to hook one up. I have a Harbor Freight remote starter that is a total POS, but it cranks the starter over, straight from the battery, eliminating that problem in about ten seconds.
So how do we help the newbies with limited knowledge, getting them to either a sticky here or figuring out, how much they know? Either one, would be a good start in my opinion.






Do you have a way of checking for voltage at the solenoid?
You should have a constant 12V. On the solenoid should also be an "I" terminal for ignition that comes from the keyed 12v source when the key is in the run position.
The other is "S" for start going back to a keyed 12V keyed source.
You can also check your grounds at the starter I would check those first
Have you looked at the fusible links at all? any chance you can smell burnt wiring under the hood or under the dash when this happened?















I take it this is a "Side-Post" battery? Its tough to get a 100% connection with those crappy designs in tight quarters.
Remove the NEG cable first, clean thoroughly: cables terminal, batterys external pad and even the bolt. Leave it off to the side. Now do the POS side.
Take note how the cables bolt fits. Are some of the threads missing? Peel back some of the rubber around the terminal end and inspect. Do you feel that the cable is actually tightening down on the battery? Or is it the bolt just bottoming out with the terminal still loose?
Just went through this last summer. Switched to a 1 1/2" long bolt (same thread) nut & washer. First I run the bolt through the terminal and bottom out the bolt in the battery. Then tighten the nut / washer against the cable terminal. Super tight connection.
I now have bolt heads sticking out of the battery. What a great place to latch on with jumper cables!
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Oct 31, 2020 at 07:20 PM.









