Frame Data Expanded - I Hope You Enjoy
joe



An overview of the late frame compared to the early. Interestingly the rear area is the same inner clearances for a fuel tank and such, but is wider and further out from the centerline of the frame to the side of the car. Trouble with trying to fit an early body is the fender behind the wheel. It is too tight for that by 1/2 an inch or so. Neat to see the mount position Is the same, but then it widens and changes dramatically.



Last edited by vettebuyer6369; Nov 10, 2021 at 11:21 AM. Reason: Remove NSV part promotion
Last edited by carriljc; Oct 21, 2021 at 11:19 PM.
Looking at the picture below - it would appear that you could bolt on an aftermarket crossmember ii you cut the manual tranny crossmember and left the stub, drilled a "passthrough" hole, ground off the bottom of the manual tranny crossmember, and used some Nutserts (or generic equivalent) to bolt on the bottom side? Does that seem doable?
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Yes, thank you. I don't remember seeing this posting before either.
Do you have picture looking at the tranny crossmember from the side? Trying to determine the height difference of the crossmember from the bottom of the frame to see if and aftermarket crossmember could easily be adaptated?
I already made mine removable but I'm looking at those aftermarket crossmember with the large pass under exhaust holes that relocate the exhaust away from the tranny. I'm willing to modify mine even more but this sounds like an interesting experiment..... I would just like to have an idea before blowing 300+ bucks on the aftermarket crossmember.
1980-82 frames were 20% thinner in steel 'web' section. The early frames,79 being the last year...had web thicknesses of .110".
In 1980 the frames were thinned to .090". This was for two reasons;
1. WEIGHT SAVINGS
2. The torque available from the big blocks was LONG GONE, so with only SBC's available and the batwing lighter duty rear diffy's Chevy figured, why keep them thick?
So the cautionary tale here; If you build up an 80-82 frame, DO NOT PUT A BIG BLOCK IN IT (or high HP/Torque Crate Engines).
You're better off to find a 79 and before.
Additionally, the Batwing rear ends, just can't take that level of torque.
Cheers and Thanks!
Unkahal
Lots of great info on all the years
Thanks for taking the time to spell out all the up dates
I'm very worried about spitting the body and the frame apart

I'm thinking my frame most likely has rust rot and that's going to make me sick.

I've done a few complete restorations in my life like a 57 - 210 and few pick up's, SS - Chevelle's , Camaros but no Corvettes yet

BIGMAN 79




Lots of great info on all the years
Thanks for taking the time to spell out all the up dates
I'm very worried about spitting the body and the frame apart

I'm thinking my frame most likely has rust rot and that's going to make me sick.

I've done a few complete restorations in my life like a 57 - 210 and few pick up's, SS - Chevelle's , Camaros but no Corvettes yet

BIGMAN 79

David Howard
AllVettes4Me
Last edited by vettebuyer6369; Jan 18, 2022 at 02:44 AM. Reason: Edit link to sales
New old Corvette for you!!!
There are some subtle differences in a 1972 frame at each end because the 72 has 'Chrome' bumpers while the 82 has 'Rubber' bumpers.
The differences are required because the bracketry for the bumpers is quite different.
I think it would be wise to get some photos of the frame rust that your mechanic is seeing. It might just be that the frame can be repaired and not replaced
So, some photos Please!
Regards....
Sadly, David Howard has passed away. He was a much loved and respected member.
You might consider starting a new thread of your own.
Last edited by Alan 71; Jan 31, 2026 at 05:34 PM.
New old Corvette for you!!!
There are some subtle differences in a 1972 frame at each end because the 72 has Chrome bumpers while the 82 has 'rubber bumpers.
The differences are required because the bracketry for the bumpers is quite different.
I think it would be wise to get some photos of the frame rust that your mechanic is seeing. It might just be that the frame can be repaired and not replaced
So, some photos Please!
Regards....





Frame repair sections are available , basically every part of the frame can be purchased in sections. Cut out the rust. Weld in the repair section. Generally way cheaper than a new frame. But depending on just how bad your frame is.
On the 68 the front frame to nose brackets made the frame more enclosed and the radiator support was on the inside fo the frame which made for narrower radiators on the small block automatic transmission/ big block radiators. 69 and later this was changed and the radistors could extend into the frame rail adding 4 inches overall of tank and cooling surface.
.............
The OP mentioned "minor changes" between years. Exactly what they are can be good to know. To repeat my oft made comment about my "1969 NOS" frame that I ordered from GM Parts in the early 80s. When I went to mount my 1970 frame extension horns to my "NOS" frame, they didn't exactly fit. One bolt hole was off. I bought some eBay 69 frame extension horns....once again, no cigar. Next I turned to my 68 and I could see its frame extension horns didn't fit exactly either!!!! WTH? I talked with some vendors...they didn't know. Finally, someone at Volunteer Vette had the answer. When I ordered my 1969 frame in the early 80s, what GM sent me was a "service frame." The service frame for 1968 to 1973 Corvettes was a 1973 frame!!! This even though the 73 was a rubber bumper car. When the 73 frame is used as a replacement for the earlier years, I guess the assumption was that a body shop would be ordering the frame, and the minor modification needed to fit a 73 frame for the earlier years would not be a problem. My now, NOS 73 service frame, is now at home in my 1970 restomod. Anyhow, not many people have a non-factory NOS frame in their Vette.

















