Mechanic
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 306
Likes: 20
From: Greenville SC
Mechanic
Any of you guys or ladies know of a mechanic in or around greenville,s.c. that is knowledgeable about C3 79stock L48 Brakes? All new parts except rotors, they are relatively new. Have had 5 mechanics involved and still have no brakes. Need someone willing to access my problem, NOT replace every part.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 306
Likes: 20
From: Greenville SC
I would do the radiator but Huntsville is a fer piece from S C . No leaks. Power Brake car. 79 L48 Stock. counting original there has been 3 m.c,, 3 boosters, new distribution block, all new calipers, Have 18" of vac, blocked current m/c off and have a hard pedal. Can pump pedal and have some pedal. When engine is started pedal goes to floor. bled every imaginable way possible. 5 mechanics have failed to find a fix. I would sell it if it would fricking stop.
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Team Owner
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From: Huntsville AL
Le Mans Master
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From: Fernandina Beach FL
2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
You have one of the best a little north of you in Charlotte - "Dub" at Corvettes Etc. He's been there since 1985.
He just had a hernia operation last week- so he might be still recovering.
Richard
He just had a hernia operation last week- so he might be still recovering.
Richard
Team Owner
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From: Huntsville AL
This is out of the box thinking but I'm running out of ideas considering everything you have already done. You stated that you blocked off the current m/c and had a hard pedal, have you tried blocking off just one chamber at a time? Disconnect the rear brakes first and see if you have a pedal and front brakes. It's going to require getting creative with some fittings because you will need to cap off the MC output and the line.
Last edited by Mr D.; Feb 10, 2021 at 02:25 PM.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
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From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
What make/model booster is in it now? There needs to be an adjustment for m/c push rod but on my Tuff Stuff booster, that adjustment is made at the brake pedal.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 306
Likes: 20
From: Greenville SC
I tried blocking front/rear lines at the m/c but got no pedal either way while engine running. One of the mechanics that worked on my car indicated no issues w/ runout. counting the original this is the 3rd. booster. Didn't install them and not sure what brands were installed.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 44,637
Likes: 1,827
From: Huntsville AL
I tried blocking front/rear lines at the m/c but got no pedal either way while engine running. One of the mechanics that worked on my car indicated no issues w/ runout. counting the original this is the 3rd. booster. Didn't install them and not sure what brands were installed.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 306
Likes: 20
From: Greenville SC
Thanks Mr. D, however my car is a 1979. There is not an adjustable rod for the 79. They are all the same. Put paint on the pin just to be sure contact was being made. Paint transferred to booster shaft.. What are the chances that the original and 2 other boosters were bad??
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 44,637
Likes: 1,827
From: Huntsville AL
Thanks Mr. D, however my car is a 1979. There is not an adjustable rod for the 79. They are all the same. Put paint on the pin just to be sure contact was being made. Paint transferred to booster shaft.. What are the chances that the original and 2 other boosters were bad??
One of the valves in the brake servo (booster) is stuck open. When you start the engine the vacuum produced by the engine (or a separate vacuum pump) is used to assist braking pressure from your foot. As you press the brake pedal, a valve in the servo opens to allow the vacuum to pull against the diaphragm in the servo to assist you. If a valve is stuck open it will keep sucking until the pedal goes to the floor and will only release once the engine has stopped.