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I love build threads, I go throw everyone's build threads. I most likely will never do this, but when the cars are broken down to this level, I get to see so much detail I would not normally ever see. It is a real education!
Been making progress. Started fitting interior back in the car. Converted from an AC car to a none AC car by making an adapter plate. Rebuilt the non AC inner heater box with all new seals and new heater core. Installed it in the car and tested the wiring. Finished most of the interior wiring. Converting to non AC saves SO much room behind the dash and in the engine compartment!
Very interesting and great work going on . First time i have seen a later year body go back on an early chassis , interested to see what your plan with the rear bumper parts is.
Very interesting and great work going on . First time i have seen a later year body go back on an early chassis , interested to see what your plan with the rear bumper parts is.
Me too! I have done a little measuring from the rear body mount and the end of the chassis is in a similar position. I do not want to modify the rear of the chassis much. The plan is to replace the absorbers with adapters. Will probably have to mount plates on the rear of the chassis to support the weight.
David Howard, AllVettes4Me, posted several threads where he took several different year/model chassis’s and converted them for different year/model bodies.
In the threads he described in detail the work needed to be done and included measurements.
David is the chassis guru and has contributed a lot to the forum and it’s membership.
David also has a following on his Facebook Page for his continued work.
Search for his threads and if you have any questions, PM him and I’m sure he would be more than happy to help.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Nov 14, 2021 at 11:59 AM.
David Howard, AllVettes4Me, posted several threads where he took several different year/model chassis’s and converted them for different year/model bodies.
In the threads he described in detail the work needed to be done and included measurements.
David is the chassis guru and has contributed a lot to the forum and it’s membership.
David also has a following on his Facebook Page for his continued work.
Search for his threads and if you have any questions, PM him and I’m sure he would be more than happy to help.
I know the first question is "why would you convert from AC?". I converted from AC to non-AC to save room in both the engine compartment and in the dash. I was going to remove the driver side AC duct anyway because my foot would hit it when moving between pedals. It also saves weight. The AC didn't work in the car and I don't want to spend the money to fix it. I wouldn't use it most of the time anyway. If I decide I must have AC later ill get a vintage air unit.
AC car firewall opening
Non-AC car firewall opening
AC car firewall opening with adapter plate installed
Getting fuel system plumbed and started converting the f-body wiring harness to stand alone. One thing I noticed is the oil pressure is not routed through the PCM like it is in a C5. The C5 also has trans temp wired into the PCM. I think going to wire both into the PCM and see if the readings are transmitted over the serial bus like the coolant temp. I’m going to install Dakota digital gauges and use the serial bus adapter for the signals. Also, the AC pressure switch connector on the f-body is the same as the C5 oil pressure sending unit connector. Don’t even have to buy one.
I’m also converting the harness to the 5 pin MAF. Already ordered the connector to replace the MAF and Intake temp connectors.
I added the wiring for the oil pressure and trans temp using wires I had removed from the harness. I put the harness on the motor and started taping it into sections. Turns out, the C5 trans temp sensor is the same connector as the VSS (speedo) so I ordered one. Also turns out, the 5th gen Camaro TR6060 uses the same temp sensor as the C5. Very convenient.
I have finished wrapping most of the engine harness. Ready to put the body back on and figure out where to mount the PCM. I was also working on the vacuum lines for the heater and ran into an issue. The vacuum port switch on the controls will not hold vacuum. The issue is it’s a 4 port switch. I could not find anywhere that sells a 4 port switch. Only the 9 port switch. I have three other controls with 9 port switches and at least one hold vacuum. I went through all of settings to figure out what ports did what and think I found a configuration that will work ok.
I have ran into an issue with the chassis. I think the rear part of the chassis is bent down. See how it’s not straight with the body? The three front body mounts on each side are torqued down. The driver rear (#4) has a 3/4” gap between the mount and the body. The pass side has 1 1/8” gap. Made an appointment with a frame rack for next week.
On a good note, I got the computer mounted and wired into the car.
Awesome video.
Thanks for taking the time to do these.
What was the tool you used during the fuel system install that had the red head and the black handles.
Also my wire stripping tool is at least 40 years old.
Yours looks like it would be a nice replacement.
Same with your crimping tool.
Both are much nicer than my old ones.
Can your provide the tool names, manufacturers and any tool part numbers.
It looks like I’ll need to go tool shopping, oh darn.
Thanks, Greg
