Pro-active replacement while things are apart
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 184
From: Central Bucks County, Pennsylvania
Pro-active replacement while things are apart
I started helping a neighbor restore (to working/running) condition his 1971 ‘vette. I’m just there to guide the process of reassembly with a promise to his wife that we wont go nuts - stay sensible. She means no show car or racing intentions. She’s due in 3 months and wants no more of this after delivery day.
There are times when opportunities to replace when it’s easier to do so can be justified. The entire interior has been gutted (with few exceptions) by the last owner. What could be replaced now while every thing is open and easy to get to? I know what I would do, however I’d like to run this by you guys first. For instance, I know the power brake booster is a pain in the *** to access, its not believed defective now but since most things are out would you replace it now?
Just FYI, what remains still in the car, steering column and all the wiring behind the dash assemblies. The left, right and center dash - out. Center console - out and ductwork out.
What else is there to think about at this stage?
Thanks for your time,
Rich
There are times when opportunities to replace when it’s easier to do so can be justified. The entire interior has been gutted (with few exceptions) by the last owner. What could be replaced now while every thing is open and easy to get to? I know what I would do, however I’d like to run this by you guys first. For instance, I know the power brake booster is a pain in the *** to access, its not believed defective now but since most things are out would you replace it now?
Just FYI, what remains still in the car, steering column and all the wiring behind the dash assemblies. The left, right and center dash - out. Center console - out and ductwork out.
What else is there to think about at this stage?
Thanks for your time,
Rich
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 5,476
Likes: 2,184
From: Loveland
Paint the center console, the gear shift plate, and fiber optic plate. Not that hard. Make sure the hand break/cable are in good shape. If it has side kick speakers, make sure they are good. Make sure the heater/AC controls and seals are good. Make sure the radio and antenna electronics are good. Do all of the center gauges work? Change center instrument panel back lights and lights behind the speedo tach. Puff puff puff, now I am tired.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Repair the stock radio or replace with inexpensive 'faceplate' AM/FM/Bluetooth unit. Replace speakers with decent speakers that have proper impedance to match with head unit. Go for clean sound and forget the head-banging power stuff. Verify that gauges all work and work properly BEFORE dash reassembly. Also check out proper operation of actuators, cables, and doors in the HVAC system. Change out all dash bulbs. I HIGHLY recommend that you just install a good brand of correct incandescent bulbs. Make sure ALL electrical grounds in the dash are clean and functional (or the electrical stuff will not work properly). Do not replace the headlamp switch if it works properly and dimmer function is OK. If not. replace it. You might consider installing relays for the headlamps so that all the current no longer passes thru that switch (the relays can be installed after in dash is buttoned-up, if you wish).
Utilize the AIM to properly position all wiring/harnesses as done at the factory. If you do not, you WILL have difficulty getting things to fit properly.
Utilize the AIM to properly position all wiring/harnesses as done at the factory. If you do not, you WILL have difficulty getting things to fit properly.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 2,380
Likes: 838
From: New York
2017 C3 of the Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '20- '21
Be careful with the new batch of heater cores. The tubing is often poorly soldered and can fail just by looking at it wrong. You might want to reinforce the solder joints. Ike
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Race Director
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 13,227
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From: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
2025 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
Let's see, His missus is 6 months pregnant. He wants this done and reliable before the baby is born. the car is nearly 50 years old...................
Seriously! Who are you kidding???
I've had my 77 for over 30 years and 3 boys. Sorry, these cars are ongoing projects. We call them a Hobby for a reason. sometimes life with kids gets in the way and it sits for awhile. Sometimes we get inspired and work on it.
When you get that crystal ball that lets you see into the future as to what will break next. Please let me know where to get one!
As for right now. Stop second guessing and get this thing put together and get his pregnant wife off his ***.
Seriously! Who are you kidding???
I've had my 77 for over 30 years and 3 boys. Sorry, these cars are ongoing projects. We call them a Hobby for a reason. sometimes life with kids gets in the way and it sits for awhile. Sometimes we get inspired and work on it.
When you get that crystal ball that lets you see into the future as to what will break next. Please let me know where to get one!
As for right now. Stop second guessing and get this thing put together and get his pregnant wife off his ***.
Is my vette stock?? HAHA
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 20,209
Likes: 9,348
From: Im not allowed to tell you
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I got mine back to stock in 3 months, so its doable. Hes going to be a new Dad so make it start, make it stop then make it go.....This is what I did which may translate over to what he can do
- I did the oil pressure line, go to the hard copper or braided steel. the nipple on the gauge is proprietary so dont screw it up
- new carpets...refer back to number 1 for the reason
- LEDs, I got mine at superbriteleds.com look for dimmable ones
- You can get your heater core rebuilt at a radiator shop and you will know it will fit
- re-die the console if its worn and the kick panels. hopefully the spray die is available
- If you decide to get a new master and booster, get them as a set from a good manufacturer like TuffStuff. Make sure they are for a disc/disc system meaning front and rear discs. they used to sell a disc drum setup. Mismatching the booster and master is a huge headache. If he has manual brakes, this is a good time to consider going power. Its a source of contention and you dont know if the previous owner screwed up the master as to whether its a power master in a non power car and vice versa. Then it wont be possible to get a good pedal if they arent matched
- replace all the rubber lines at the calipers....old ones can collapse internally. Then you cant bleed each caliper
- use dyna mat or some sort of heat reducing layer under the carpet. My carpet has ultra thick jute and it reduces heat but it make putting things back in a PITA. A cool compartment will keep the wife happy
- Check all the wiring under the carpets for cuts and areas that may have worn thin
- Check the seat belts
- I replaced all the door switches at the time as well.
- I also replaced the wiper relays, my 68 had 2. one under the center console and the one on the tach.
- people have listed repainting the metal console parts. Satin black looks the best, stay way from semi gloss and gloss. Use a razor after to clean off the chrome letters and trim
- I also had to replace my ignition switch due to its location. If he has his column out, you can check the cylinder and key for wear and replace the switch on the column. Just be aware that it may need adjusting on the first start if you mess with it.
- Updating the radio is always a good idea, if you dont want to destroy an intact gauge console for a single DIN deck, consider a bluetooth amp he can just connect his phone to
- I also went through an re-aligned my front and rear suspension
- did a tune up
- bled brakes
- new tires
- take the inner door panels off and clean the window tracks and relube with a lithium grease. the old grease may be hard and crusty
- Test the wiper door and headlights for vacuum leaks. You can solve a lot of slow leaks just by trimming about and inch of rubber off all the hoses. If he has a leak then test the actuator relays, the re-pops are garbage and last about a year. a 71 might have 2 for the headlights, and one for the wiper door. If you have an A/C vacuum pump you can evacuate the system very quickly. use and inline gauge and a one way valve and just evac it out to 20Hg. Using a hand pump will hurt to try and get the system at 20Hg
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; May 24, 2021 at 07:59 AM.
