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One word of caution, though......before you start to drive the car, please replace those tires. BFG hasn't made that model of tire in a long, long time, and it would be dangerous to drive on them. One of them "lets go", and you'll be looking at an expensive fiberglass repair bill.
One word of caution, though......before you start to drive the car, please replace those tires. BFG hasn't made that model of tire in a long, long time, and it would be dangerous to drive on them. One of them "lets go", and you'll be looking at an expensive fiberglass repair bill.
Otherwise, good luck with the car!
Hahaha, the front tires are actually Comp TA 60H... which, i believe was disco'd in the early-nineties... Even if they weren't hard AF... which they are, i'd not drive down the street on them. The fact that they have cracks down to the cords wide enough to fit a pencil doesn't help. I dont like 60-series anyways.
The tires on the back are probably not too new either. BFG has made those for over 20 years now, and i have more ov the same in my shop to mount. But... they're still soft, and well... i cant afford to replace 'em just yet. Gonna throw some 50's on the front tomorrow and take some more 'stance' pics... if it stops raining.
77-up hood has different latches. and not really doable to swap to earlier. i have a 77 hood on my 75. i am gonna throw hot rod pins on it for the time being.
77-up hood has different latches. and not really doable to swap to earlier. i have a 77 hood on my 75. i am gonna throw hot rod pins on it for the time being.
Can you not just use the later latches? I'll go pins too if i have to. That stock 73 hood is HEAVY. Its not staying on there. I DO like the stock cowl look... but i wish it was about 3" taller.
no. everything is different. the shape of the car and shape of the hoods are different. would have to cut out and glass in new latch mount points. and the later hood is not really any lighter.
no. everything is different. the shape of the car and shape of the hoods are different. would have to cut out and glass in new latch mount points. and the later hood is not really any lighter.
I thought the actual hood was the same shape from 73-82... i mean, just the hood itself (scoops and latches being different). Everything else can be modified. I've also read several sources say the late hoods are 10-15lbs lighter. Thats definitely enough for me to bother with. Plus, then i dont have to have my original (because i'm cutting it for the taller engine).
While this was stored at my dads shop one province over for 3 weeks, he said it leaked, 'something around the wheels' he said. He figured it was a caliper. Yay. But so far in MY driveway, nothing. While i had the wheels off i noticed some old poly sway bar end links, Canadian Tire shocks, and what looked like fairly recently replaced calipers and rotors. Thats good (the last two anyways). So... not sure whats leaking, but i'd wager my brakes are fine.
I also found cheapass cast wheel spacers up front... which is bad enough already, but they were both different sizes AND different shapes. Worse, i can see absolutely no reason for them. ONE was glued on. If anything, it just makes the tires stick out more than they should. No rubs anywhere. More aluminum for the recycling... but its got me wondering why they were up there.
I also found a stack ov shims on one side ov the control arm, and none on the other. The tires are not perfectly equal in how they line up with the fender lips, side to side up front. Now... its been my experience that all cars (i've owned anyways) are never perfect, but mine stick out a little bit more on one side. Any ideas as to what this means?
Also, i read here that all Corvettes came with 7/16" wheel studs. I didn't believe it. Yet... there they are. What the hell? ALL Mopars, except slant-6 cars came with 1/2" studs. How did they miss this?
Also also... Could not help but mock up some ov my phase 1 ideas. Threw my 4" cowl scoop on there and stuffed a 3" side-exit pipe (i'll probably go 3.5" though) under it for some shots and a little 'chop. Should look mean all black/less chrome, and with some different rims.
Last edited by Pale Roader; Sep 17, 2021 at 02:36 AM.
I thought the actual hood was the same shape from 73-82... i mean, just the hood itself (scoops and latches being different). Everything else can be modified. I've also read several sources say the late hoods are 10-15lbs lighter. Thats definitely enough for me to bother with. Plus, then i dont have to have my original (because i'm cutting it for the taller engine).
Whats different, that would make it not fit?
GM lightened a lot between 79 and 80, so a stock 80-82 hood will be lighter. It also looks different, so it may not match with your future plan of adding a high-rise (though there is an aftermarket 80-style hood that gives you an extra inch or three).
At a minimum, the cowl vent is differerent. 73-76 appear to be functionally the same.
GM lightened a lot between 79 and 80, so a stock 80-82 hood will be lighter. It also looks different, so it may not match with your future plan of adding a high-rise (though there is an aftermarket 80-style hood that gives you an extra inch or three).
At a minimum, the cowl vent is differerent. 73-76 appear to be functionally the same.
To 80+ has that low, non-cowl bump in the middle, its all gonna go under my 4" cowl scoop (that i'll be cutting away underneath) anyways. I dont need the vents. As long as it physically bolts up to the hinges, and fits in the hole, i'll address all the other problems. Its just another temp fix anyways, as down the road i'll get a nice, light, aftermarket cowl or L88 hood for it.
[QUOTE=Pale Roader;1604013730]Heh... thanks guys. Everyone likes the color. I cant stand it. Luckily... the paint looks WAY worse in person, so i wont feel bad removing it. Seriously... its REALLY bad up close. Just for now though, i might keep it, paint some rallys that color, delete some chrome, and play around with some stripes. I have a big-*** cowl scoop for it already (off my Charger) and just need to find a ratty 80+ hood to hack and then put it on. That stock 73 hood is HEAVY. Kinda feel silly driving around with a 4" cowl in a slow car... but it'll inspire me to quicken it up... quicker...
Do people actually read the updates on these 'project' threads?[/QUOTE]
Well...well...welll....Here we are at post 30....keep up the info-post and pics
I wanted a 69 4-speed coupe (even a ratty one), but my budget said 79 automatic. Took a year to find this. I had to choose between a rubber bumper car and a 4-speed car... but i think i chose right. It'll be a lot easier to swap in a stick than change front and rear bodywork to 69 style. Its gonna hurt... bad... driving around with an automatic again ( i said i'd NEVER drive an auto again...), but if there's a future in it, i'll live. I sold my last race car (72 Charger 440 road race) because it needed a 4-speed... and i could have done the swap, had all the parts even, but it was just too big, heavy, and ugly. So FIRST order ov business... is scrounging up the complete 4-speed swap pile o parts. And NOT paying a fortune for it.
Well, after over half a year ov contemplation and more research... i'm gonna have to addend this and admit that i chose WRONG. I have since figured a way to relatively easily swap on a 69 front end... but man, that 4-speed. I just do NOT want to tackle that right now. I love this car... but i actually regret not buying that 76 4-speed car for $3000 last year instead. The $7000 left over would have gone a LONG way to wake it what i want. I must reiterate here... i hate HATE HATE HATEautomatics. Ugh.
However... i have committed myself to this one. Its a really good car, and it seems to want to run. EVERYONE i know loves it.
So, update April 2022.
Engine ~ The ANCIENT battery dies after a month ov sitting, but always recharges. It fired right up after many long cold, wet months. Put some new gas in there and the stumble and pop all disappeared. Suddenly it revs to redline, and whats this...???I HEAR A CAM. Not much... but there's a lope in there... lil choppier than my neighbor's bone stock L82. Hmmmm... this 'junk' 78 truck 350 might not be so stock after all. I even hear some decent 'pop' out the tips... so maybe someone put some real pistons and compression in there too. I'll do a compression test quick. Its moot though regardless... as i see a lot ov blue coming from the driver's pipe. Like... bad rings-blue. ****.
Brakes ~ So when i went to take a spin around the block with my better-running engine, the brake pedal went right to the floor. No visible leaks, lots ov fluid. Just zero brakes. Stopped just fine in October. Also ****.
Rollers ~ I love my 4-corner 295's... but i hate those wheels, or rather... the chrome part ov them. My friend REALLY wants them for his 80 Malibou, so he's gonna give me enough to buy two new 15x10" rims in the shape i want. Thats the good news, the bad news... is that i have to wait till July to get them. 'Intergalactic backorder', they say... Also also ****. I've got some junky 8" mods i can paint up and use up front until i can afford the other two 12" rims. Still gotta run all this on old BFG's though. Damn.
Flares ~ Yeah, looks like i'm making them from scratch. Good news... this'll be next to free, and i can make 'em EXACTLY how i want. Bad news... yeah... i'm lazy.
Inspection ~ Still an out ov province car, so needs an inspection to drive, and that sucks. But my friend is a licensed inspector, and will do a house-call. He's been once, and gave me the list ov **** to fix, and that was bad enough, but now i've got brakes to add. Also also also ****.
But... here's the list (if anyone's still reading...) :
~ Brakes ~ the car should probably be able to stop...
~ E-brake (nothing at all)
~ Wipers ~ one arm needs re-fitting, comes right off the windshield. Pretty sure it was just put on wrong.
~ Front tires (those 295's rub a bit) gonna borrow some 60's for the front just for the inspection
~ "Something is up" with the passenger A-arm mounting point (rearward). The front wheel had some slight play in it he didn't like. Might be nothing, but he said check it.
~ There is a golf ball sized hole in the frame in the front ov the rear wheelwell on one side. Easy fix.
~ Door handles now ~ BOTH outside handles broke over the winter. Gotta find some good used ones.
~ Needs a battery hold-down
~ Needs a high beam
~ rear driving lights dont work. Brake lights, signals, sure... but no driving lights.
EDIT: I might have discovered a loophole around the inspection. Details to follow... when i get some goddamn time. Man, i got BUSY all ov a sudden...
And so here's a horrific photochop taste ov whats coming (scoop and pipe added). But man... that maroon HAS to go...
Last edited by Pale Roader; Jul 30, 2022 at 07:55 AM.
I don't want to discourage you, since I really enjoy your posts, and I am looking forward to watching you do a budget transformation. But you and I both know that you would be miles ahead if you sell that car right now, and buy the one you want.
If you want a manual, you will NEVER be happy with an auto, and doing it right (5-speed or better) is $5K by itself. And as someone with one of each, the manual is about a million times more fun to drive. If you want to keep the car, you must do that first, before you spend a bunch of time and money on a car you will hate to drive.
I mean this all in the nicest possible way, and look forward to your build, whatever it may be.
I don't want to discourage you, since I really enjoy your posts, and I am looking forward to watching you do a budget transformation. But you and I both know that you would be miles ahead if you sell that car right now, and buy the one you want.
If you want a manual, you will NEVER be happy with an auto, and doing it right (5-speed or better) is $5K by itself. And as someone with one of each, the manual is about a million times more fun to drive. If you want to keep the car, you must do that first, before you spend a bunch of time and money on a car you will hate to drive.
I mean this all in the nicest possible way, and look forward to your build, whatever it may be.
No man... you are preaching to the choir. I KNOW it. But... a couple things...
It needn't be 'done right'. Thats for you guys with money. It just needs to work, and not break. I have never... ever... gone wrong swapping in a used, unrebuilt tranny (or engine). In fact, in 40+ classics, i've never once rebuilt an engine or tranny. I dont need new parts. I dont need fancy parts. I just need a working Muncie or T10... or better yet, a Camaro T5. Doesn't need to be stock. Doesn't need to hold 450HP. Just needs to work, right, and not break or vibrate. I'd prefer the T5... and by recent posts here, and ads elsewhere, i'll be far further ahead going the Camaro T5 route than sourcing stock muncie or T10 parts. I'd also MUCH prefer a 5-speed. This is going to be a highway king.
I have NO plans on keeping this car auto... if i keep it. Absolutely non-negotiable. I THINK...??? I can do this for around 2 grand? Used parts, maybe a cheap parts car, i dont care. This is not the endgame... this is ONLY to get me around and have some fun while i save up to do the modern aluminum V8/6-speed swap. Has to last 1-2 years, thats it.
I would love to find someone that wants a complete, solid, driving, pretty much original 73 auto... who will trade me a decent, solid 68-9 4-speed coupe project though. I KNOW i'll be way further ahead. But... living in Canada, even just 20 miles from the border, complicates things...
I have a good Borg Super T-10 out of my 77 in the Classified section. Rebuilt locally, with about 18,000 miles on it. I am switching it out for a Jodys Autogear M23 4 speed . Check it out. I also have the original Muncie M20 out of my 69 project in the classified section. I think the prices are fair. I also have a set of Cragar slotted aluminum wheels that were on this car when I bought it. Look at the first page of my thread 69 Convertible Retirement Project. the wheels were on the car....I think the rears are 15 X 10 inch wheels. Fronts are 8 inch, and have brand new front Cooper tires, never been driven on.....seller used them to push the car around the garage. All of this stuff would be hard to ship though, and I have no idea what you have to deal with crossing the border.
If you plan on spending much time on the highway, I wouldn't even consider a four speed. Just bite the bullet and get an overdrive. I always find myself reaching for another gear that just isn't there.
If you plan on spending much time on the highway, I wouldn't even consider a four speed. Just bite the bullet and get an overdrive. I always find myself reaching for another gear that just isn't there.
I agree here! If you are planning on driving the car, why not put in OD! Both of our sons each bought doner cars for their projects. Pulled what they needed then parted the doner out for more than original cost of doner.
Yes it is more work that way but extremely budget friendly!!
agreed. if changing to clutch and on a budget, maybe shop around for borg T5 setup. otherwise wait until there is enough dinero for a real 5 or 6 speed. and if this rather nice looking 73 is your first chebby, what is with the cosmetically challenged C2 coupe in your avatar?
That car is from King of the Mountain, Dennis Hopper racing the Vette on Mulholland road against Harry Hamlin in a Porsche Speedster replica. Look it up on youtube, it's a cheesy but entertaining flick.
I've been building hot rods for over 40 years and scrounge bone yards for parts. You can do a manual swap for cheap if you take your time and search around for parts. I picked up this car about a year ago for only $4500 and will be doing a manual swap at some point. I am debating 4 speed vs 5 speed as I won't be driving the car long distances and 4 speeds are pretty cheap.
You have to be realistic with yourself though. Do you really have the time and desire to do the conversion? Sometimes it make more sense to sell and buy something more to your liking already than spend the time and money changing what you have.
