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Jeez...you made the car sound like a complete DISASTER (before I looked at the pix!) Great catch. Lovely 73. Looks complete do-able....except for one thing.
Forget the 295's....unless you're going to flare the fenders or make your wheel bearings scream for mercy. I remember the famous (to me!) quote.."I got 275's under the car THEY ONLY RUB A BIT!) That's like being 'a little pregnant' LOL. ANY RUBBING IN ANY ATTIDUDE is a fail!
If you plan on spending much time on the highway, I wouldn't even consider a four speed. Just bite the bullet and get an overdrive. I always find myself reaching for another gear that just isn't there.
Not only a lot ov time, but a LOT ov high-speed time. I recently drove from Calgary to Winnipeg at an average ov 110mph... topping out at 120 because the car wouldn't go any faster. The highways out there are soooooo boring... it cant be explained. I never want to feel that again. I need a car that can sit at 150 comfortably for an hour.
Now OBVIOUSLY... the first phase ov this rig is not going to be doing that. But thats the endgoal. My basher ($6000 all-in) 72 Charger could run 110mph all day... if you could afford the gas. Only reason it topped there was because ov a driveline vibration that got ugly at 120. Cheap CAN be fun.
I specifically drove 4.6 5-speed Mustangs for better part ov a decade to acclimate myself to something better than old-school. I got used to OD sticks and 4-wheel discs. I'm never going back. That said,if i can drop in a 4-speed cheap for now, i will. I just missed a mid-70's project/parts car with a complete running 4-speed set-up here for $1500.
Originally Posted by 69_Shark
I agree here! If you are planning on driving the car, why not put in OD! Both of our sons each bought doner cars for their projects. Pulled what they needed then parted the doner out for more than original cost of doner.
Yes it is more work that way but extremely budget friendly!!
Keep the posts and pictures coming!!
Scott
Yeah, thats my usual MO. Those cars have completely dried up around here though. Gonna have to go looking for them in (people's) yards.
Originally Posted by derekderek
agreed. if changing to clutch and on a budget, maybe shop around for borg T5 setup. otherwise wait until there is enough dinero for a real 5 or 6 speed. and if this rather nice looking 73 is your first chebby, what is with the cosmetically challenged C2 coupe in your avatar?
IROC-era T5 is the ticket i'm told. Best this things gonna see for a while is a warmed-over drop-in (unrebuilt) L31 Vortec. I'm sure the T5 will hold that if i dont drag race it.
I've been building hot rods for over 40 years and scrounge bone yards for parts. You can do a manual swap for cheap if you take your time and search around for parts. I picked up this car about a year ago for only $4500 and will be doing a manual swap at some point. I am debating 4 speed vs 5 speed as I won't be driving the car long distances and 4 speeds are pretty cheap.
You have to be realistic with yourself though. Do you really have the time and desire to do the conversion? Sometimes it make more sense to sell and buy something more to your liking already than spend the time and money changing what you have.
BTW, is "ov" Canadian for "of"?
Real-estate is utterly psychotic where i live right now. There are NO yards left... anywhere... and if you find one, its all 2015 and up. Most wont even let you wander around in there anymore. The local one i go to is still cool, and it gets some occasional stuff in the early 2000's, but thats it. Craigslist is useless these days too... all C5-7 stuff. If i need parts, they're gonna come from someone's backyard. Not exactly a lot ov C3's hiding in yards anymore either...
I cant even find a L31 Vortec without paying a fortune for it...
As for your second point. I have time. I have lots ov time. But i dont have a shop (hence the mold), and i have only basic tools. I also dont have a lot ov patience left. I have zero interest in FIXING a car. Ever. I'm done with that. There is a world ov difference between fixing a broken car (especially someone else's car, with someone else's handiwork), and BUILDING a car. I love building cars, and i dont mind fixing a car that I built. But this is still someone else's mess, and all the stuff that needs fixin' right now is just dumb, non-fun stuff. I mean... I'LL DO IT... but man, i would so much prefer just to pay someone to get it inspected. From THERE... i'll build it with pride.
The 'ov' thing is an ancient joke that got out ov hand and stayed there. I've had so much absurdly violent grief for it its just hard to stop.
Jeez...you made the car sound like a complete DISASTER (before I looked at the pix!) Great catch. Lovely 73. Looks complete do-able....except for one thing.
Forget the 295's....unless you're going to flare the fenders or make your wheel bearings scream for mercy. I remember the famous (to me!) quote.."I got 275's under the car THEY ONLY RUB A BIT!) That's like being 'a little pregnant' LOL. ANY RUBBING IN ANY ATTIDUDE is a fail!
Terrific starting point!
Best of luck and knuckles!
Unkahal
It was just supposed to be a quick inspection... fix a couple lights, find some front tires, fix the E-brake... but now... well now, i have a goddamn list. It might not seem much to you guys that have been doing this forever, or that have money, but i have NOTHING for a GM. The few parts i have left are all Mopar. I dont even have a spare headlight, or 7/16" lugnut. I know a thousand Chevy guys, but not a single one thats ever owned a Corvette, and no one with a single part i need.
It does have its good points too though. For what its worth, the TH400 shifts extremely firm, the headlights go up and down nicely thanks to a brand new vacuum kit the previous guy installed. It has a brand new Harrison Classic Car Audio Corvette stereo deck (with box) that i'm sure i can get some money for. It has good original glass. All the lights (save the rear driving), and the interior switches work. The FG isn't separating or showing visible seams like many i've seen. Some slightly worn seats and shitty door panels aside, the interior is in nice shape. And it has a full 2.5" dual exhaust that i think i can splice my X-pipe and Spintechs into... so i'll have a wicked sounding/flowing exhaust... for now. Thats gold... because exhaust is a dealbreaker for me, and building the new one is gonna run me $1500. It also sits nice and high, and firm. I hate sloppy, bagged looking cars, and lowered cars.
As for rubbing... Honestly, unless its rubbing on something sharp, or to any severe degree, or on top ov the wheelwell, i dont care. All my cars have rubbed somewhere... and in over 30 years i've never had a problem. The front tires, as you see them, will NOT work however... as they dont rub on the front ov the well, they hit. You cant even turn the wheel through it. STRANGELY enough... it DRIVES fine... like no rub at all... not a scuff. But sitting? You can only turn the wheel about a turn before it outright stops. Its weird. I will be taking these awful 15x8" (3.5" BS) wheels off, and using a 15x10 (4"BS)... and yeah, THAT is gonna just not work. So... flares it is. I love well-done flared C3's.
I'd just run a 275/50-15 up front... but this isn't 1995, and you cant get 'em used anywhere. When i buy NEW... you know, sometime in 2028 when my meth lab is up and running... i'll run 275/50's up front.
My problem is i tend to visualize extremely well... and think ahead. The car NEEDS an inspection... but all i can think about is fixing the exhaust and getting my new 10" rims and flares... Yeah yeah... i know. Hahaha.
FINALLY get a solid couple hours to FINISH the compression test i started a week ago... and maybe get a couple other little things done, and NO crank on the battery. Not even a click. No lights on, no visible draw... and in 6 days, dead battery. WONDERFUL. So... it would seem i have a draw somewhere. MORE to do. Also wonderful that i dont have cables, my friend didn't have cables, and all three ov my car-guy neighbors were off picnicking or something. So, again, no compression test.
ALSO wonderful... are these SPLENDID headers i have. Could not even get a socket on the front right plug. Its like... RIGHT THERE... and i'm using a 1/2" short socket, and a vise-grip to loosen the thing. I thought Mopars were bad...
Also also... my friend has 'changed the deal' on my rims, and now wants the tires as well for the same price... so... I guess i'm not getting new rims. Stuck with these ugly old mods for the foreseeable future. Thinking i'll paint 'em.
Some almost good news is i found a running late 70's/early 80's 454 for $5-600. But this spark plug bullshit has me re-thinking that idea. If i knew ANYTHING about Chevy big blocks, i could make a better decision. I can build a nuke-proof 450HP 440 for pennies, but i know them in and out. This build is about speed, reliability, and light weight. I can get a pair ov new AFR's for $1400. If that $500 big block swap will be anywhere near that, its sunk.
I am sure glad I enjoy driving at 60 mph on curvy PA roads. Making a C3 Corvette able to drive at 150 mph is rather absurd and going to be a challenge, not to mention extremely unsafe. In fact, at those speeds, most modern cars are unsafe......let alone 70's era cars.
late 70's early 80's will be a low compression possibly peanut port version. large is it's only real plus. an L29 gen 6 454 out of a 96-02 chebby truck or prev mentioned L31 vortec. not only are they 25 years younger, they are roller enines. and L29 454 heads are pretty good for anything under 5500 rpm. and non-WC 82-86 T5's are not any weaker. just less expensive and easier to find.
I am sure glad I enjoy driving at 60 mph on curvy PA roads. Making a C3 Corvette able to drive at 150 mph is rather absurd and going to be a challenge, not to mention extremely unsafe. In fact, at those speeds, most modern cars are unsafe......let alone 70's era cars.
Obviously... that is the longer range goal. I had my 72 Charger up to a sustained 110 and that was safe enough. Would have been fine at 120, but a driveline vibration got ugly over 110. At 125, the aero ov those cars lifts the front end... a lot. Nothing an air dam wouldn't have fixed. A 70's era car can be made safer (from avoiding crashing, maybe not surviving impact) than a new car. I'm up for the challenge. For now, a car solid at 120 would be fine. This one has a LONG way to go i think.
late 70's early 80's will be a low compression possibly peanut port version. large is it's only real plus. an L29 gen 6 454 out of a 96-02 chebby truck or prev mentioned L31 vortec. not only are they 25 years younger, they are roller enines. and L29 454 heads are pretty good for anything under 5500 rpm. and non-WC 82-86 T5's are not any weaker. just less expensive and easier to find.
I've been looking for a vortec one... no dice. From reading, it seems that they're not the incredible upgrade from non-vortec that the smallblocks were. How are those non-vortec heads? I think even THE worst 454 head has still got to be better flowing than the best 440 head. I can make effortless power with a 440 for little money. Street dominator, big Holley, pretty much any non-stock cam, headers, 3" exhaust, tune. 107mph quarter in a 3850lb car with a 200K mile oil-burning drop-in 440 with 7.6: (actual) compression and a stock 6-pack (junk) cam. $1000 total engine investment (car came with the Holley and headers). If the 454 can do similar with similar effort, i'll consider it. That Charger moved for what it was, and i was just starting to really tune it. That 440 started with 220 net HP. The 454 230-245, maybe even 290, if i can find one.
I've seen Fox-body T-5's take savage abuse... dragstrip abuse. I'm sure they'll do fine behind a strong 350 in a light car with no traction. I'm not drag racing.
Haha. I love them. But i walked away from that platform for a good reason. Onto something new. Now... if i stumbled across an all aluminum 426 hemi for a few hundred bucks...
late 70's early 80's will be a low compression possibly peanut port version. large is it's only real plus. an L29 gen 6 454 out of a 96-02 chebby truck or prev mentioned L31 vortec. not only are they 25 years younger, they are roller enines. and L29 454 heads are pretty good for anything under 5500 rpm. and non-WC 82-86 T5's are not any weaker. just less expensive and easier to find.
I've been rabbit-holing the L29 vortec 454 for 2 days now. When i've sucked every last cell ov data from google on them, i'm gonna start a thread here about them. Yeah... i'm suddenly very interested....
My main gripe about the Mopar big block was that even the latest iteration ov them is still essentially 1957 technology. Sixty-five years ago. You know what else was hot 6 years ago? Seat belts. Alternators. Jesus... Ford was barely out ov its flathead production in '58... JET ENGINES were new technology in '57... hahaha. The 6-pack head, the legendary '906'... is basically just a bigger version ov that 1958 361 head. The blocks, cranks, intakes... everything. It always pissed me off that Mopar quit the big blocks in '78. Chevy and Ford kept on with theirs. Mopar did good with the later Magnum smallblocks, and i was getting into those with my last Challenger, but if you want modern heads on a 440, there are VERY few options. Even the Edelbrock RPM's were designed off that stupid 65 year old 906 head. They spent about 5 minutes thinking about Mopar. Too busy designing 5 different SBC heads per week i guess. Anyways, it'd have been cool to see a modern-chambered, rollerized, swirl-port, EFI 440, with some actual compression, and all the modern tricks from the factory. The Vortec 454 intrigues me... like the L31, pretty much roasting (almost) all those old 427/454 legends... in truck form.
FINALLY got some time today, and a half decent day. So... lets start hacking down that list.
First off, i get underneath there and find out my awesome exhaust trick i've been so looking forward to is not going to work. This car really does just need a whole new system, and i can do that, but its just not in the budget. So, already unhappy.
THEN... i find out that my 15x10" widened rallys (nice job too), that i have been soooooooo looking forward to testing out on this car... DONT FIT. The offset is perfect. The width is a bit much, but should work. But they hit the caliper. WHY? You ask? Why... because THEY ARE 14". Jesus ****. Who the HELL widens 14" wheels? Were they building an Austin Mini? A classic Honda Civic? I didn't even know Corvette rallys (or Camaro rallys) came in 14". I thought that was a Mopar-specific disease. Whats even BETTER... is now i am stuck with these paperweights. Who the hell's gonna buy a 14" rim? Might as well make jackstands out ov them. I didn't pay much for them, but thats still car-budget money... wasted. SO pissed...
Oh well... on to better things. Lets get at that front drivers-side brake leak. Take the wheels off, its not a line. Dammit. My neighbor, who is building a 76 L82 car, gave me his old calipers when he went to Wilwoods. I'm absolutely wary and skeptical, because he was upsold those Wilwoods, which means he was in there for a brake job. But... they're here. Bolt it on. Bleed it. Nice and dry. Good.
NOW THE OTHER SIDE LEAKS.
Whats that 'Corvette Caliper Curse' again...???
I got the other one bolted on and finger-tight before the mosquitoes drove me to murder. I'll at least get it bolted up and bled tomorrow. If it still leaks... (desperate fist-shaking angry noise...)
Oh... and i find those shitty little 1/4" CAST ALUMINUM spacers on all four wheels. The 15x8" wheels dont clear the calipers... despite having 1/2" LESS backspace (3.5" BS ). Now i HAVE to put those back on. Wonderful. THATS safe...
I WANTED painted rallys. I even found the 4th rim.
Was messing with my doorhandles for a while too. I cannot, for the life ov me, figure out how to get the handles out. I have a spare door here (1971), and have seen newer doors than mine. All have big holes to get in there. Mine... is completely closed off. BRILLIANT. What am i missing?
I dont know man... this just isn't fun anymore. If i could have at least DRIVEN the damn thing a few miles before this grief, sure. I just dont like working on other people's bullshit. I have shitty, shitty tools, no shop, and no patience.
I replaced the outer door handle on my 77 recently. Do it with the window down, remove the 3 screws that hold the latch mechanism in place and let it hang. That will give room to access the 2 nuts holding the handle in the door frame. Take off the access panel along the bottom of the door to reach your hand in to push the latch back up if necessary.
