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Part of the fun of owning an 'older' vehicle is learning about and managing with the older technology. Some of us are old enough to know when this stuff was NEW!! Others just want to learn how the OLD stuff really worked. What you state is certainly true...but that isn't reason enough for me to kick the 'original' parts to the junk pile.
One of the problems with points is that a faulty condenser will leave you stranded just like a failed HEI or Petronix module will. Another major problem is locating a rotor and cap of high dielectric strength which prevents arcing between the post in the cap although this is true with any distributor. Another factor is high rpm point bounce with a distributor that is not properly shimmed restricting up and down play.
Points distributors, especially dual point, had their day but are ancient technology but still serve a purpose for those that require originality.
Thank you for all the great input . Im going to install a HEI temporary in Jan and going to see what shape the original is in possibly rebuild it and put back in or if i like the way it runs wit the HEI might just keep it that way will up date later ....
I will be curious to hear how the HEI works compared to original. The research that I have done, is that it doesn't really increase the power. But looks cool. I have the Pertronix and it seems to work well. It takes any question away you might have about properly tuning points.
Thanks most likely when i rebuild the old distributor I will go with a Pertronix module I've only heard good things about the pertronix , I'm not looking to get more power just smother on cold starts and smoother engine over all ...
Thanks most likely when i rebuild the old distributor I will go with a Pertronix module I've only heard good things about the pertronix , I'm not looking to get more power just smother on cold starts and smoother engine over all ...
you only must read what you want to read. There is plenty of people that have been left stranded many times by that widget.
The HEI will require different wiring than the points distrbutor so I suggest you find a wiring diargram for the HEI. Willcox is a good source for the diagram. I would also suggest that when you rebuild the old distributor you find some thin shims to eliminate the up and down slop. If you encounter excessive side to side play in the distributor shaft you find a different distributor,
you only must read what you want to read. There is plenty of people that have been left stranded many times by that widget.
And many more that haven't. I have one in the 66 Mustang that I gave my grandson. The car made 3 trips between Cherry Point, NC and Springfield Mo. with 0 problems. The module is in an old Mallory dual point distributor and I used Petonix's matching coil. The engine in the Mustang is a .030 over 289 with a very aggressive cam, a 600 Holley DP, headers backed with a 4 speed.
Thank you will do that for the wiring will check willcox diagram out , I was just panning to run a 12 gage wire from the HEi distributor straight into the fuse box using the ignition axillary spot Im told it 12 volts and that what it needs to run ....
Thank you will do that for the wiring will check willcox diagram out , I was just panning to run a 12 gage wire from the HEi distributor straight into the fuse box using the ignition axillary spot Im told it 12 volts and that what it needs to run ....
14 gauge is plenty large enough and the wire should only be hot with the ignition key on. The resistance wire feeding the system now should, if memory serves me correctly, be connected to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid. Disconnect it and save it in case you wish to return to a points distributor. It's function is to drop the voltage to the points to around 8 volts when the engine is running.
If you do go to Petronix I suggest you run their coil as well. It is impedance matched to the module.
Yes that's a great plan , i think so too 14 gage should be great
I would suggest that you get everything together before you start and then lay out a plan and follow the plan. Remember, you'll need a tach drive HEI distributor if you go that route.
For what it’s worth 14 gauge is to small 12 is ok but I like 10 better. JMHO.
One other thing you might want to consider is a relay. Run power from horn relay to relay to B+ on HEI. Than you could probably use the resister wire for a relay trigger and not run the electrical load through the ignition switch. Think about it.
Last edited by Vette5311; Dec 2, 2021 at 01:15 PM.
No worries 12 gauge is what im going to be using but 14 gauge is okay to its just what GM used and its what's recommended in 1975 when the went to the HEI as a lot more volts are going through the system ....cheers
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