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How much could you possibly lose if you buy this, drive it for the summer, and want to sell it? Show us another car for $20 in this condition - with A/C and PS that works and original engine.
Somebody is going to buy this from under your nose. .Its driving season now.
I think that is the question. I like alot about the car and if nobody told me the flaws I would swear that the car was all original and of course I'd feel better. I just didn't want to over pay and be upside down in the event I need to sell it. I'll talk to the owner tomorrow.
Being a newby can mean a lot of things, have you gotten a sense of pricing yet? That can be tricky. Unless there are serious frame/birdcage issues, that price is not bad. As I mentioned, you could easily spend 20k on a car that is a complete disaster. When you take it out, pay attention to how well the car brakes. Make sure to check the operation of vacuum operated devices... hide away headlamps, the shroud that conceals the windshield wipers.
If you're serous about this car, to the point that you want to make an offer, I would strongly suggest getting an inspection by an individual who is intimately knowledgeable with the unique nuances of these cars. You will not regret that move. Best of luck.
Thank you for the input. I think that's what I am trying to do, avoiding a disaster. The car is over 50 years old, but it looks so good. The headlights pop up and down quickly and the wiper door opens nicely, The car brakes straight. There is a little play in the steering. The car isn't all that fast but fast enough for my needs. I have a buddy that know these cars. I have relied on his judgement. I'm not going to over think it. The majority of the members indicate that 20k is a fair price.
Edit: I have been checking Craigslist and there has been zero C3 covettes for months. I wonder where the heck are they?
This is a fairly decent car ... Seams to check all the right boxs for you. Me personally, I NEVER, NEVER, NEVER pay asking price. Even if seller says 'Firm' . Just me maybe, but I've always had seller come down...
I think that is the question. I like alot about the car and if nobody told me the flaws I would swear that the car was all original and of course I'd feel better. I just didn't want to over pay and be upside down in the event I need to sell it. I'll talk to the owner tomorrow.
Well this says a lot. If you're satisfied with the way the car presents itself, the functions operated as intended, and you've got a friend who is comfortable with it's mechanical condition, I'd say you're just about there. The thing you really want to be certain about is the condition of the frame & birdcage. If these are rusted, there is nothing that you can do that won't involve spending a lot of money. You'll be certain to find yourself upside down, or in a position where the car isn't salable.
I'm surprised that the interior keeps getting mentioned as an area of concern. With companies such as Al Knoch, you can replace seat covers (leather or vinyl), door panels, and carpeting, with beautiful results.
Regarding price, personally I wouldn't spend much time trying to reduce the purchase price as a matter of principle. Unless there is a serious frame issue, someone will pay 20k for that car and not think twice. In the '68 - '72 model years, $20k really doesn't buy much these days. Ask yourself this question, what would you regret more? Paying a thousand dollars more than you wanted to, or losing the car to someone who paid a thousand more than you? Good luck.
Last edited by seacliffe301; Apr 14, 2022 at 07:11 AM.
My 2 cents from buying a fair number of used cars;
Originally Posted by LarryLaddin
I'm finally in the market for a sports car and have always loved Corvettes. I have my eye on my neighbors car who is thinking about selling. I've looked at it acouple of times and had a corvette knowledgable friend check it out. So I'd like to know if this is a decent car for the price. Owner wants $20k and I don't think he will negociate. So between the owner and my friend here is what I have learned:
1. 1971 Coupe, 56k miles, 350/270 hp, Turbo 400 auto, PS, PB, PW, tilt, custom interior
2. Car runs good, wipers and headlights work fine
3. Matching numbers on block and tranny
4. My friend says the frame and birdcage look good
Now heres my rub
1. Not original paint - was ontario orange, repainted sunflower yellow, side pipes (look cool but loud) If it's really a rub, look at other cars that are "original" and be prepared to pay up. Ontario orange is awesome, but at least color change seems done pretty well with good coverage. Sell the side pipes and put dollars towards what you want.
2. Owner believes the seats were recovered in vinyl, not leather by a previous owner OK, it's a used car subject to the whims of previous owners, see color change above
3. Owner says the alternator and carb were replaced with Delco and Rochester appropriate ones, whatever that means It means exactly what he says it means, not original bits to the car, but service replacements. Stuff wears out, people make choices on replacements. Depending on when replaced, probably still better quality than you might get today
4. Owner believes that the 71 hood was replaced by a previous owner with a 69 hood because of some (3) hood insulation pins See above
5. There is paint chip near the passenger head light about an inch long and front bumper looks like it pushed in about a quarter inch It's a 50 year old car that, heaven forbid, that has actually been driven since the repaint. For me that makes getting the next ding that much less painful, providing you plan to drive it.
my 51 year old vette has mottled paint, raised paint and water spots, but it also has 25K miles and the paint will stay that why until the next owner does something about it. From the drivers seat I can't see any of those defects!
Anyway, I'm on the fence thinking the owner is asking too for this car. On what do you base this opinion? I revert to what do the same $'s buy you in the generic used car market? A 10 year old VW GTI? A 5 year old Accord? Indeed what does it get you in a very presentable running driving C3? Hint, I think your looking at it. IME, if there is any perceived wiggle room in pricing (when I try to sell cars) 10% is often a given and not likely to offend most sellers, especially if you'd like to remain civil, neighbor? after the offer.
Tell him you like it but don't need it and you could come up with $18K for it and see what happens, if he come back $19 or less, buy it and start driving instead of shopping!
Good luck
Larry
PS "I just don't want to over pay and be upside down incase I need to sell it" Well, if you've ever bought a new car from a dealer this has happened to you every time you've driven it out of the lot but we live with it. The nice thing about collectible/desirable cars is that time can bail out a payment premium and every enjoyable mile driven as well. So what if you lose a grand, that wouldn't even pay for renting the same car for a month of weekends!
the windshield pics look good. have seller pull the 2 kick panels and chesk the #2 body mounts. i always say it is better to regret the car you passed on 6 months ago than to regret the car you bought 6 months ago. this is the exception to the rule. he did not look up the price-value of this car. he stuck a 20k price tag on it. and that is for his neighbor. also friend? he is doing you a favor. accept the favor. buy it. after posting pics of the body mounts.
Well this says a lot. If you're satisfied with the way the car presents itself, the functions operated as intended, and you've got a friend who is comfortable with it's mechanical condition, I'd say you're just about there. The thing you really want to be certain about is the condition of the frame & birdcage. If these are rusted, there is nothing that you can do that won't involve spending a lot of money. You'll be certain to find yourself upside down, or in a position where the car isn't salable.
I'm surprised that the interior keeps getting mentioned as an area of concern. With companies such as Al Knoch, you can replace seat covers (leather or vinyl), door panels, and carpeting, with beautiful results.
Regarding price, personally I wouldn't spend much time trying to reduce the purchase price as a matter of principle. Unless there is a serious frame issue, someone will pay 20k for that car and not think twice. In the '68 - '72 model years, $20k really doesn't buy much these days. Ask yourself this question, what would you regret more? Paying a thousand dollars more than you wanted to, or losing the car to someone who paid a thousand more than you? Good luck.
You raise an excellent point. I couldn't find many corvettes locally to get an idea on pricing. So this forum has educated on C3 prices. It looks like $20k may be a bargain based on many of the postings here. Later today I'm going to take a closer look at the car then transact some business.
My 2 cents from buying a fair number of used cars;
Thank you for your thoughtful comments. You raise some excellent points; especially the new car depreciation on every new car I've ever purchased. I've never thought of it this way. My neighbor is a good guy and never considered that he was doing me a favor by offering what now looks like a pretty good price. I should have done more research but in my defense I am now by engaging in this forum. So, I'm a bit smarter now.
the windshield pics look good. have seller pull the 2 kick panels and chesk the #2 body mounts. i always say it is better to regret the car you passed on 6 months ago than to regret the car you bought 6 months ago. this is the exception to the rule. he did not look up the price-value of this car. he stuck a 20k price tag on it. and that is for his neighbor. also friend? he is doing you a favor. accept the favor. buy it. after posting pics of the body mounts.
Thanks for the body mount check. We didn't do that. I'll see if I can get pics of them.
Ha! Don't muddy the waters with reason! I've been asked to help a few folks "buy a car" and the first thing I insist on is for them to lock down make/model/ years so as not to get off track with other equally good values etc because then any rigor in the process is lost and you end up chasing your tail. Nice buggy though!
Thank you for your thoughtful comments. You raise some excellent points; especially the new car depreciation on every new car I've ever purchased. I've never thought of it this way. My neighbor is a good guy and never considered that he was doing me a favor by offering what now looks like a pretty good price. I should have done more research but in my defense I am now by engaging in this forum. So, I'm a bit smarter now.
PS, the PW and Tilt/tele are worth 10% of the asking price right there. Currently working on swapping them into my 71 this spring.
Anyone with PW regulators for sale, LMK
PS2, your real issue to check on the front isn't so much the pass headlight paint chips but what is causing/caused this.
How much could you possibly lose if you buy this, drive it for the summer, and want to sell it? Show us another car for $20 in this condition - with A/C and PS that works and original engine.
Somebody is going to buy this from under your nose. .Its driving season now.
You said it really well. Buying this car for $20k, driving it around and enjoying it, then selling it would probably net the buyer a profit.
Just going by the pictures I can't see a scenario where any buyer would be upside down in this car at $20k. The automatic is the only real detractor but the OP said he would prefer this. The description mentions the non-original components but an all original car in this shape would be how much? $30k? $35k? If you start replacing stuff on it then that's a different story. I'm also another one that doesn't like haggling. Again, from the pictures, the car appears to be worth the asking price and if it was me I would pay it and start enjoying the car.
Thank you for your thoughtful comments. You raise some excellent points; especially the new car depreciation on every new car I've ever purchased. I've never thought of it this way. My neighbor is a good guy and never considered that he was doing me a favor by offering what now looks like a pretty good price. I should have done more research but in my defense I am now by engaging in this forum. So, I'm a bit smarter now.
I for one will never ever overpay for a car .. at 20k with the info you gave us that is a great price you can’t get hurt !! Is it perfect no is it a steal no is it worth 20k yes .. bring cash drive the car take ur time point out the flaws hand him 19k and shake hands keep us updated
Here is the damage I was talking about. I looked underneath and the front looks ok to me but I'd feel better if my buddy checks it out. The car starts up and runs
great, but loud, and handles good.
The front bumper probably got hit and pushed in on the left side.
The right headlight door looks to be out of adjustment causing the chip in the paint.
The alternator bracket is on the wrong side of the alternator, the alternator is not correctly clocked, the adjustment bolt has a nut indicating stripped threads.
Looks like I see a chrome timing chain cover....hopefully the timing chain set was replaced.
These are easy fixes. For $20K I don't see how you can go wrong. If you pass on this one, you will use it for reference when you look at others that won't look as nice.
"The carb is a Rochester Quadajet and is correct for the car, but not the one that came with the car. He said something about a missing solenoid that keeps idle up when the AC is on. Not sure what that means or even if its important. But if its supposed to be there I'd like to be sure."
That would be the CEC Solenoid, 1 year only in 1971.
Ha! Don't muddy the waters with reason! I've been asked to help a few folks "buy a car" and the first thing I insist on is for them to lock down make/model/ years so as not to get off track with other equally good values etc because then any rigor in the process is lost and you end up chasing your tail. Nice buggy though!
Excellent point and I agree. I don't like the looks of the C5s or If I wanted a C4 I could get one for alot less than the C3. I'm still focused on a C3 chrome bumper, coupe, small block, auto.
The front bumper probably got hit and pushed in on the left side.
The right headlight door looks to be out of adjustment causing the chip in the paint.
The alternator bracket is on the wrong side of the alternator, the alternator is not correctly clocked, the adjustment bolt has a nut indicating stripped threads.
Looks like I see a chrome timing chain cover....hopefully the timing chain set was replaced.
These are easy fixes. For $20K I don't see how you can go wrong. If you pass on this one, you will use it for reference when you look at others that won't look as nice.
"The carb is a Rochester Quadajet and is correct for the car, but not the one that came with the car. He said something about a missing solenoid that keeps idle up when the AC is on. Not sure what that means or even if its important. But if its supposed to be there I'd like to be sure."
That would be the CEC Solenoid, 1 year only in 1971.
Good luck.
Thanks for the pic. Yes, that's the thing the owner said was missing. I don't know why he just didn't replace it, he's pretty good mechanically. I've seen him work on his cars, does mostly all his own work.
Thanks for the pic. Yes, that's the thing the owner said was missing. I don't know why he just didn't replace it, he's pretty good mechanically. I've seen him work on his cars, does mostly all his own work.
Maybe the replacement carburetor doesn't have the tab to mount the CEC Solenoid bracket.
