Hey folks, Kentucky boy here, it's time to un-Bubba this gem. It’s a 1970 factory big block, a/c, 4 speed car but not numbers matching unfortunately thus my pro-touring aspirations. Last pic is ignition box power and ground direct from battery through sheet metal and representative of the car build quality overall. Engine wiring harness is out for inspection and repair or replacement.

Dad swore he’d have a Corvette before 40, he got it at 41. In 2013, at age 54, he passed much too soon and I haven’t had the financial, or emotional, means to dig in. Injuries and failed relationships opened the door to divert time and resources to this and I have to say, it’s a blessing. Make lemonade and always see the opportunity!

1. Get the wiring straight (safe)
2. Rebuild interior - Update gauges as a few are broken, modern stereo system, delete A/C and go heater only (I need suggestions on how best to modify the heater box to simply flow all vents 100% of the time)
3. Rebuild suspension with new bushings, upgraded springs, shocks and sway bars
4. Polish up the 30 foot paint job and throw new bumpers on it
5. Squeeze as much from the unknown big block as possible with electric fan goodies, trashing the Torker II, and a more appropriate carb (who knows, I may just pull this rat when i get to that point!)

I appreciate very much the community and all the knowledge held here. Looking forward to getting back in the game with you all.

 

As for #2, just wait, let everything freeze up... at least thats how the previous owner of my 69 got the air flow to be constant from all vents....

 

Great Vette with good bones.

Good idea and easy enough to do. Get a good wiring diagram (I like Doc Rebuild OOSOEZ diagrams). You can buy the correct tape to rewrap the harness.

Doing an AC delete is really not required, your heater will still work with an inop AC system. If you do go down this road keep all the removed AC parts. You can buy replacement gauges at any of the Vette vendors.

A lot of times people jump on this thinking it needs to be done when in reality there is nothing wrong with what you have. Inspect what you have and only replace what is needed.

Nothing wrong with a 30 foot paint job, as for bumpers don't buy new reproduction, re-chrome your originals.

Electric fan goodies will do nothing to squeeze anything out of your engine. That 454 will provide more than enough power to put a smile on your face. I agree get rid of the Torker II intake and go with a more traditional intake and carb. I would do a good evaluation on your current engine before thinking about pulling it. If it's not broke don't fix it.

Your library should consist of the following

1) Corvette Factory Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM) $22.00
2) Chevrolet Chassis Service Manual $35.00
3) Chevrolet Chassis Overhaul Manual $28.00
4) Motor Manual $10.00
5) Corvette Technical Information and Judging Guide $75.00
6) 0OSOEZ Wiring Guides $50.00

Bonus Items
1) Chevrolet Corvette Parts and Illustration Catalog 1953 to 1982 (free .pdf on internet)
2) Haynes Automotive Heating and Air Conditioning Manual $15.00
2) Corvette by the Numbers 1955 - 1982 $70.00

Adjust the above library based on what year Vette you own.

Good luck and ask and questions, people on this forum are always willing to help and help you spend your money. ​​​​​​​

 

 

Thanks for the reply. My AC was already hacked off with a massive hole left in the AC box. Either the heat from the headers or it was 'clearanced' to install the headers. Plus, I value very much a tidy and spacious engine bay.

I'm also good with the driver paint because, well, this is going to be a driver! But all the bushings are absolutely shot and upgraded sway bars are a cheap improvement. I will look into the best way to lower these cars and nail that stance.

I'm not necessarily pulling it to just pull it but I have no idea what this long block even is. For all I know they may have built this lower end, or, its literally untouched from stock. I love everyone's enthusiasm to empty the wallets on these cars. The obsession has begun!

 

Sorry about your Dad.
IF the engine is in decent shape/running.....repair all the other "stuff" and drive it for a while after making the brakes/suspensiondrivetrain safe

 

Sorry to hear about your dad. Looks like you got a beautiful car with tons of potential! Your gonna save good money with those floor pans being in such good shape. If the rest of the car is real good shape you’ll be saving thousands on the structural stuff. Can’t wait to fallow the progress.

 

Don't get sucked into the Poly bushings rabbit hole, use the original rubber bushings. Use rubber and do the job once, use Poly and do the job twice.
If you pull the trailing arms to replace the bushings you might as well rebuild those while they are off the car.

 

I got very lucky....all the oil and transmission leaks saved the frame and floor pans!

 

This is great advise, thank you. Looks like a trailing arm rebuild should definitley be one the list.

 

i wouldn't be so quick to toss that intake. one of the few that fit under that hood. and it makes pretty good power. electric fans do make for a less cluttered engine compartment. the oem C5 setup is cheap and durable. and adapts well to the aftermarket radiators. and saves hours trying to get them out compared to that shroud. post engine and AC box pics...

 

I’ve heard such bad things about the Torker II. Dog always seems to come up describing it! Thanks for the tip on the C5 fans, I’m going electric headlights and window door as well. These vacuum lines and the clutter give me anxiety.

AC box has been tossed. There was a massive hole you could easily put a fist through near #8’s header. The components were already hacked up too from previous owners. I’ll post up some engine pics tonight.

 

Sorry about your dad. Your tackling this project is a great way to honor him. Good luck, and be sure to post your progress! Not only are there a lot of super knowledgeable C3 guys here, but they are very generous with their helpful suggestions. We all want the reality of owning a Corvette to be as fantastic as we hoped it would be!

 

The Doc Rebuild OOSOEZ wiring harness diagram was the absolute best investment that I made. For around $40 you get 2 laminated COLOR charts with images of all of the wiring connectors.

 

I've got a Torker on a 462 BBC in a 4200# '77 XJ12L. Short story is it works. The low manifold profile and a '69 Corvette drop base air cleaner solved my hood clearance issues. A lot comes into play: Engine Dyno Tune, Roller cam, roller rockers, ported iron heads, 750 double pumper, 1/2" carb spacer (wish I had room for a 1" spacer), 700R4 with a 2.78 first and 2800 stall convertor with 3.54 gears. I can light the tires up at will. Throttle response is crisp at any RPM. 485 HP at 6250 RPM, 550 ft/lb of torque. I also sent the intake to Extrude Hone in Irwin, PA.

Gearing and torque converter slip keeps the engine in the power band of the cam and manifold.

Enjoy your build process!!!

Extrude Hone of intake passages

Extrude Hone of intake passages

Installed Torker

'69 Corvette drop base and K & N Filter

 

Maybe buy this?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...r-housing.html

not sure if years were same but keeps your car able to ac later?

 

benjiboy,
I should have included this in my comment yesterday. Pick the cam, manifold, gearing, and fuel system that will suit you planned driving style.

 

Looking very good and nice power numbers too! Perfect street setup it sounds like.

 

Spent the weekend in the woods so not much time to wrench but I did manage to replace the missing drivers side door spring. Now my door stays open! Here's the rig we devised to hold the weight of the door while removing. Redneck ingenuity at its finest!

 

Not much to update; came down with strep throat and have spent 100 hours under the search button here. So that's making lemonade fellas.

I did pull the trigger on these gauges as an early Xmas present to myself. Also, spent several hours inspecting the engine harness. I'm going with a universal heater setup for two reasons, cost and simplicity and this will eliminate many of the already broken or burnt wires in said harness. I am a minimalist at heart.