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Once you start to put everything back together you'll most likely have to loosen the dimmer switch bracket.
It will need to be adjusted correctly, this is real critical.
The pot metal pivot bracket that supports the "Smart Switch" is the weak link here.
A poorly adjusted dimmer switch will put undue pressure on the pot metal bracket.
The adjustment is easy, you will need a 3/32" drill bit.
The instructions below are for a replacement switch install.
Thanks bmotojoe, that little diagram is extremely healthful.
I assume part number 63 in post #39 is some sort of screw that holds the acutator in place and I'll need one of those too?
Regards
David
Item number #63 are the 2 screws that attach both the ignition & dimmer switch to the column.
Originals the one on the left is more of a flat head, the one on the right is more a hex head.
They are the 2 screws in the dimmer switch instructions above.
Last edited by bmotojoe; Feb 19, 2023 at 10:27 PM.
While waiting for the actuator I’ve launched into a bunch of other jobs including raising the height on the rear end, engine oil, filter and general lube.
I decided to change out the filter on the Quadrajet and another problem. I can not loosen the nut at the end of the fuel line. It’s jammed and the nut is now rounded off. That carb is pretty sad with the broken choke mechanism etc. The carb problems aren’t going to stop me from getting it on the road but I’m going to have to deal with the problem one day.
In the meantime I hooked up all the vacuum lines but I don’t have a diagram for these three
Top one is hot water shut off. White nylon line about the size of a 10 guage wire , 2 - 2 1/2 ,mm thick. Comes out of the fire wall just right of the distributor.
Lower one. Flapper valve shut off for cold weather.
Middle one, not certain but I think it may go to the evap can.
I don't have any of that unnecessary stuff on my car.
But I am in Queensland, not much need for hot air off the exhaust manifold into the airfilter for cold weather warm up. And no need for a heater for that matter.
But my air-con works great! That I have a need for!
Your air cleaner style is called a Thermostatic Air Cleaner or TAC.
There is a sensor inside the air cleaner where those two hoses are.
The idea when the under-hood temperature is below 85*f that the actuator door (service manual calls it "control damper assembly") allowing mostly pre-heated air to enter the air cleaner.
When the under-hood temperature is over 85* and under 128* the control damper is partially open, allowing both pre-heated and cold air to enter air cleaner.
When under-hood temperature is above 128* control damper is full open allowing only cold air to enter air cleaner.
That's the specs in the book anyways...
Take your time on the filter nut going into the carburetor, I believe the filter nut is a 1".
I'm not 100% sure you can get some good penetrating spray in between the pipe and the flair nut or not?
If you can apply some heat "safely" to the flair nut maybe, just maybe the heat will draw in some of the penetrate?
My 77. Between the red wire, lower and the black and white pair, upper. You see what looks like a Gray wire with some cracks in the Gray. That's actually the green vacuum line that goes to the actuator in the far right side of the wiper tray. The white line comes out of this same bump in the firewall. But the factory would have painted over it when they did the black out of the windshield frame. This bump is behind and slightly left (as you sitting in the car) of the right ignition shielding upright. It will go off towards the right side fender. It is very common that these lines get brittle and snap off. You may need to scrape paint off of what look like wires to find it.
it looks like a wire but it's hollow.
Yep,
Follow the Black hose I drew a red line at...
The black hose is your vacuum feed to your HVAC vacuum switch.
The photo on the right is that grommet.
So you will see 3 hoses in that grommet.
Got it, turns out the little wire pipe was running down the back of the fire wall and connected to nothing. Another plumbing issues solved. Thanks guys
Got it, turns out the little wire pipe was running down the back of the fire wall and connected to nothing. Another plumbing issues solved. Thanks guys
Well you found the vacuum line anyways...
Now slide the COLD/HOT slider to COLD.
With engine running you should have a vacuum signal at that line.
In the HOT position the line should exhaust and the hot water shutoff valve should return to it's home position...Open.
If the hot water shutoff valve is functioning properly it only requires 5"-7" inches of vacuum to change state.
I know at some point I need to start putting things back together and stop pulling things apart but last night I decided to have a look at a couple of things.
One was why does my voltmeter do nothing when the ignition is turned on and why when i turn the radio on does nothing happen other than it lights up (nothing on the screen).
What I found last night was the following
The voltmeter works when you ground it out and put power to one side but the potential problem could be the circuit board which looks like its been chewed by a dog where the connector goes in. This could be my problem!
I also discovered why the heater always feels like its on
The actuator find is a plus...
The printed circuit board has seen better days, you may be able to remove the PCB and carefully realign the copper flaps?
A drop of clear fingernail polish to keep them in-place may help?
Just leave enough copper exposed so a connection can still be made to connector terminal.
I do see what looks like to me some aftermarket radio wiring?
A better photo may help of what you have.
Here is the printed circuit board diagram I made for the 77.
All parts of the switch now operational which is amazing.
Radio out and sorted out so when it goes back in it will work.
Waiting on the circuit board to come and hopefully when that’s done the volt meter will work. There was one little flat washer that came out when I was undoing it so if I could get a hand on where that goes it would be appreciated.
Thought I’d look into the heater while I had the dash off and found the cable disconnect. Turns out the end won’t bend into the right place so about every third time it pulls clean out of the bracket. Added to the excitement the cable has been glued into the space it’s suppose to go so a new heater control panel and cable is required.
For my next question I see this at the back which I assume are all vacuum lines.
One of them has nothing coming out of it. Is that normal or another issue to solve
That's normal. That one is the vent.
these switches are notorious for leaking. On mine the plastic rivet that goes through the center and holds the plates to the rubber labyrinth seal broke. Then all I had was air blowing down. They are easy to fix. There have been threads on here over the years on how to.
