When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
When I pulled the pipe off while the car was running the actuator dropped open and there was still a reasonable amount of vacuum in the line so I’ll see how it goes
Dave, you must be a purist. Wanting to make that stuff work. I lost all that garbage years ago. Perhaps you want it all factory stock. Good on ya.
But don't race me.
Dave:
I bring this up because down under you may be required to have DRL front lights (DRL = Daytime Running Lights)?
For about $22.00 USD with no mods to your housings.
They are Amber/White Switchback LED bulbs.
Also required are 2 50W 6ohm resistors.
If interested let me know...
So, a 17 second quarter run with garbage vs. a 16 second quarter run without garbage?
Is that what your saying?
interesting. Your absolutely correct. With all the inside work on my engine meaning nothing. But.
the point is. Even if it is what your saying. A second off and a cleaner much less complicated engine bay it's still a win.
Damn your cheeky!
Dave:
I bring this up because down under you may be required to have DRL front lights (DRL = Daytime Running Lights)?
For about $22.00 USD with no mods to your housings.
They are Amber/White Switchback LED bulbs.
Also required are 2 50W 6ohm resistors.
If interested let me know...
Thx for the kind offer bmotojoe, I’ll have a look into the requirements down here and let you know.
Thx for the kind offer bmotojoe, I’ll have a look into the requirements down here and let you know.
Regards
David
It's not that I have the items for sale, it's what the items here cost...lol
You have what I believe to be a mid year build 1977 with a 1st design forward wiring harness so the park lamp extension harness connectors are different from a 2nd design harness anyways.
I purchased new AcDelco sockets and terminals and used my existing plastic connector housings.
So the car is almost back together having fixed the switch, heater, radio etc etc etc.
Since I purchased the car the volt meter hasn’t worked and while I had the dash out I hooked the gauge up to a battery and it worked so I thought the mangled circuit board might have been the issue. Stupidly I put all the dash back together (with the new circuit board) and started the car and everything works (including the Gen Light) except the volt meter. My want to pull the dash out again is very low so I thought I'd check if there was any other spots I should look before going back into the dash?
Thanks
Dave
Last edited by Dave1977vette; Mar 23, 2023 at 07:09 PM.
New volt meter on order and and the oil pressure sender packed up the other day so I’ve got one of those coming too.
Replaced the heater control unit in the console and the cable and after pulling it backwards and forwards 3 times the cable pulled out of the plastic again. Any bright ideas on how to keep it in there. Seems like unless the cable is straight it doesn’t want to comply!
I took it in for a Roadworthy Certificate this week and got hit with the following list.
- Engine oil leaks - I think it’s the rocker covers leaking
- Power steering leak
- Body mount rubbers need replaced and repair in the back
- Rear sway bar rubbers
- Rear lower control arm bushes
- Straighten LH control arm
- Engine mounts
Other than the body mount bushes it all seems not too difficult.
One issue I can’t seem to get on top of is it gets a bit fluffy (feels like it’s missing a little bit) around 1500 RPM when driving and on light acceleration through the gears.
If I plant my foot or accelerate hard there’s no problems.
Ive replaced the plugs, check the timing, set the mixture on the carb (Quadrajet) 5 times in 5 different ways but I can’t seem to get rid of it.
Any suggestions?
Last edited by Dave1977vette; Apr 8, 2023 at 10:13 PM.
Heater door control cable. I've had a piece of mechanics wire twisted on mine for about 30 years. Hasn't popped out since. And no one sees it under the console.
Quadrajet, Good luck.
Rear body mount rubbers. Whooooo, take it to a different road worthy guy who doesn't look at these.
And what did you set your timing to???
what vacuum does your car pull at idle?
When does your vac can start to pull?
At what vacuum is your vacuum advance all in?
How many degrees of timing is your vacuum advance putting in?
What is your initial timing?
What is your total mechanical timing and at what RPM is it all in?
What cam are you running? What compression ratio are you running?
What if any other modifications have been done to this engine?
Answer all of this and then maybe some of us might be able to help with your "Fluffy" problem.
As an example.
My car. Xtream energy 268 flat tappet cam. Hyperunetic flat top pistons, aluminium 64cc heads. 10-1 compression.
Timing specs.
19 degrees initial. 35 degrees total all in at 3,000 RPM
vacuum advance can starts to tip at 7 inches of vacuum all in at 12 inches of vacuum, car idles at 14.5 inches of vacuum, vac can supplies 11 degrees of crankshaft timing.
none of these specs are even close to the factory specs.
New volt meter on order and and the oil pressure sender packed up the other day so I’ve got one of those coming too.
Replaced the heater control unit in the console and the cable and after pulling it backwards and forwards 3 times the cable pulled out of the plastic again. Any bright ideas on how to keep it in there. Seems like unless the cable is straight it doesn’t want to comply!
I took it in for a Roadworthy Certificate this week and got hit with the following list.
- Engine oil leaks - I think it’s the rocker covers leaking
- Power steering leak
- Body mount rubbers need replaced and repair in the back
- Rear sway bar rubbers
- Rear lower control arm bushes
- Straighten LH control arm
- Engine mounts
Other than the body mount bushes it all seems not too difficult.
One issue I can’t seem to get on top of is it gets a bit fluffy (feels like it’s missing a little bit) around 1500 RPM when driving and on light acceleration through the gears.
If I plant my foot or accelerate hard there’s no problems.
Ive replaced the plugs, check the timing, set the mixture on the carb (Quadrajet) 5 times in 5 different ways but I can’t seem to get rid of it.
Any suggestions?
Are you installing the cable correctly?
Disconnect the cable from both ends.
Insert ball end of cable into slider lever cavity just like the assembly manual says.
Then rotate the cable approx 90*.
Secure cable at both ends...
Adjust cable.
You can see both sides of the lever at post #60
That's how the ball end locks into the lever.
I had the complete shift center consul out for other reasons when I learned how it was installed.
And then saw the assembly manual instructions much later....
With all the parts you have ordered and continue to order you haven't received your assembly manual yet?
The wire is a great idea. I was thinking about a little cable tie but I like the wire option. I’ve got a bunch of lock wire from my motorbike racing so I’ll use that.
I have my timing set at 8 degrees with the vacuum advance disconnect connected as per the manual. Engine is bone stock.
I think I found my missing issue. I went for a drive and disconnected my ERG and my EFE to see if that made any difference and as it was getting dark I notice spark jumping around outside the number 4 spark plug.
I let it cool down and made sure the plug lead was on properly, started it again and I can still see it jumping around so it must be a bad plug or plug lead.
Just to add the fun my tach has randomly stopped working too.
I feel like it’s 1 step forward and 2 back at the moment!
Are you installing the cable correctly?
Disconnect the cable from both ends.
Insert ball end of cable into slider lever cavity just like the assembly manual says.
Then rotate the cable approx 90*.
Secure cable at both ends...
Adjust cable.
You can see both sides of the lever at post #60
That's how the ball end locks into the lever.
I had the complete shift center consul out for other reasons when I learned how it was installed.
And then saw the assembly manual instructions much later....
With all the parts you have ordered and continue to order you haven't received your assembly manual yet?
Yep got the manual and installed it as per the manual and when the cable is laid out straight it sits in perfectly.
As I start to bend the cable into place it turns the ball slightly and it pops out
Setting your timing to ‘as per manual’ is for setting it for smog specs at idle. With the vacuum dc-ed have it 36degrees, all-in by 2500-3000rpm. Lars has some great papers on timing, carbs, distributors. Email him and request timing and carb papers; v8fastcars@msn.com. Search old threads on CF for carb rebuilding; great pics and narratives by Lars. Adjust the idle mixture screws is for idle. But, if this carb was previously working great and it hasn’t been messed with previously it’s probably in need of some cleaning. Minor cleaning can be done with carb cleaner, but if gas has been allowed to completely evaporate from inside the carb, it’ll need to come apart. Rebuild kit from Cliff’s High Performance; talk to Cliff directly to get exactly what’s needed.
Charlie
New volt meter on order and and the oil pressure sender packed up the other day so I’ve got one of those coming too.
Replaced the heater control unit in the console and the cable and after pulling it backwards and forwards 3 times the cable pulled out of the plastic again. Any bright ideas on how to keep it in there. Seems like unless the cable is straight it doesn’t want to comply!
I took it in for a Roadworthy Certificate this week and got hit with the following list.
- Engine oil leaks - I think it’s the rocker covers leaking
- Power steering leak
- Body mount rubbers need replaced and repair in the back
- Rear sway bar rubbers
- Rear lower control arm bushes
- Straighten LH control arm
- Engine mounts
Other than the body mount bushes it all seems not too difficult.
One issue I can’t seem to get on top of is it gets a bit fluffy (feels like it’s missing a little bit) around 1500 RPM when driving and on light acceleration through the gears.
If I plant my foot or accelerate hard there’s no problems.
Ive replaced the plugs, check the timing, set the mixture on the carb (Quadrajet) 5 times in 5 different ways but I can’t seem to get rid of it.
Any suggestions?
uh, is this a state requirement and do you have to fix all that to get legal?
Thanks Charlie, I’ll reach out to Lars and yes Calwldlife I need to fix all those things, take it back and get it inspected again before I can legally drive it on the road
Thanks Charlie, I’ll reach out to Lars and yes Calwldlife I need to fix all those things, take it back and get it inspected again before I can legally drive it on the road
damn. I thought Ca was bad.
where are you located?
