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Old May 20, 2023 | 08:21 AM
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Default idle when hot

Hi All,

I'm a new comer and happy to join this forum.
My 69 L71 gets issue to idle smoothly once hot. when the engine is cold, all good but after several kilometers, no way to keep it idle. in addition,
i get a K66 TI, ignition coil is new with the right resistance (0,5 ohms and 8 ohms)
timing @ 750 is 4° as per GM specs.
any ideas ?
thank you.


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Old May 20, 2023 | 09:02 AM
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More timing. Much more timing. Throw GM specs out the window. Get Lars tuning paper and set dizzy for 36 total mechanical advance.
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Old May 20, 2023 | 09:56 AM
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a good performance tune will help but more info is needed.
car new to you or what?
auto or stick?
have you turned idle screw?

welcome

pics when you can post after some post count increase
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Old May 20, 2023 | 09:57 AM
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Lars frequents the C3 forum, but is much quicker to respond if emailed at <V8FastCars@msn.com>
Do a forum search on "lars timing" and you'll be overwhelmed with threads to read. That said, he is a, no exaggeration, carburetor expert, so ask for his Holley carb papers too and mention it's a tri-power that you're having issues with.

Last edited by barkingrats; May 20, 2023 at 10:12 AM.
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Old May 20, 2023 | 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Tiger Joe
More timing. Much more timing. Throw GM specs out the window. Get Lars tuning paper and set dizzy for 36 total mechanical advance.
thank you for your quick answer. I will try to find these tuning paper. having increase a bit the timing once hot, it works better. any reason why GM specs are not accurate ?
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Old May 20, 2023 | 10:10 AM
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hi there,

yes the car is new to me. 4 speeds, carb settings adjusted (as much as possible)
will add a pic...no problem !
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Old May 20, 2023 | 10:12 AM
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OK, already sent a mail to him. any idea where I can find the specs he is advising for my type of car ?
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Old May 20, 2023 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Abel88
OK, already sent a mail to him. any idea where I can find the specs he is advising for my type of car ?
No, because it's not a one-size fits all L-71 tuning spec. Chevrolet's specs were a one-fits-most that gave adequate performance for most people under most circumstances in most places. Lars' tuning papers take you from beginning to end through the various components and adjustments to find the highest performance for your car under your conditions.

If you think about it, best performance can't be a set of single settings. Especially after 50 years. At this point, you really don't have an engine that was just like every other L71 when they were made. Things wear, replacement components installed, fuel formulation changes, driving altitude, etc. all affect the outcome. Proper settings are really a custom diagnosis and treatment plan for your specific setup.

Last edited by barkingrats; May 20, 2023 at 10:43 AM.
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Old May 20, 2023 | 11:10 AM
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The GM specs are 100% accurate for their day. The goal then was NOT performance, driveability, or low underhood temperatures.

Follow @lars' papers, and time your engine "correctly", based on current understanding of what works best. You'll be surprised how much better it performs.
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Old May 20, 2023 | 01:39 PM
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Your problem might be as simple as adjusting the throttle stop screw on the carb linkage.
When cold, the idle speed is increased by the cold run cam on the choke linkage on the pass side of the Q Jet carb. When warm, the idle speed is controlled by the screw on the linkage on the driver side of the carb.
Also, as stated above, some GM spec's are for emissions, not performance. I think you probably do need more innitial timing.
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Old May 20, 2023 | 02:01 PM
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thks....will check.
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Old May 20, 2023 | 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Bikespace
The GM specs are 100% accurate for their day. The goal then was NOT performance, driveability, or low underhood temperatures.

Follow @lars' papers, and time your engine "correctly", based on current understanding of what works best. You'll be surprised how much better it performs.
fair point. I wrote to Lars. he is off till next week.
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Old May 20, 2023 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Sayfoo
Your problem might be as simple as adjusting the throttle stop screw on the carb linkage.
When cold, the idle speed is increased by the cold run cam on the choke linkage on the pass side of the Q Jet carb. When warm, the idle speed is controlled by the screw on the linkage on the driver side of the carb.
Just to be clear, the OP has an L71 which should have a tri-power Holley setup. It could still be a choke idle setting but it's a little more complicated with the tri-power linkage.
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Old May 20, 2023 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 67:72
Just to be clear, the OP has an L71 which should have a tri-power Holley setup. It could still be a choke idle setting but it's a little more complicated with the tri-power linkage.
correct, this is a Holley 3x2 on my car.
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Old May 20, 2023 | 02:32 PM
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so factory settings including idle rpm is set?
and it dies?
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Old May 20, 2023 | 09:04 PM
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I wouldnt just start turning screws..

YOu need to get your car hot enough that the choke releases the high idle and the car idles down. disconnect the vacuum advance to the distributor, plug the line and bump the timing up to 14 degrees BTDC. This will raise the rpm of the motor. It will also give you some better performance. After you get Lars timing papers you can learn to set the timing curve. If it will idle around 900rpm leave it, reset your idle mixture screws for best vacuum at an idle your car likes which may be 800 to 1000 rpm..If its higher back the idle set screw out. You dont want to turn that screw in to much because it will open the throttle plates and if they open too much you will move past the idle circuit and be idling in your transition circuit which will give you more problems and make the idle mixture screws not work. If your car stalls when you are coming to a stop after these adjustments you need to raise your float levels to give the idle circuit more head pressure to help keep fuel flowing through the idle circuit
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Old May 21, 2023 | 02:50 AM
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Originally Posted by calwldlife
so factory settings including idle rpm is set?
and it dies?
when cold, no issue. once hot, it dies. seems all cylinders are not fired regularly...somehow, one is missing.
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Old May 21, 2023 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Abel88
when cold, no issue. once hot, it dies. seems all cylinders are not fired regularly...somehow, one is missing.
sounds like its fuel mix is too rich and as temps rise, it "loads up"?
runs rough, stalls.

min spec idle rpms and mixture screws settings, timing work together to fight that.


at this point you are going to have to check everything,

plugs, wires, spark intensity




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Old May 22, 2023 | 10:25 AM
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If the timing is at 4 degrees at idle....you are probably leaving about 75hp on the table when you drive.......
The L-71 has a relatively long overlap camshaft that wants a lot of initial timing......
You will not know for sure until you are done.....but if you set timing per Lars papers.....with the total at 36-38 degrees......your initial will be in the 15 degrees range.....not only that, you need to run the vacuum advance off of full manifold vacuum....this will help idle quality a lot too and keep underhood temps down during traffic. Retarded timing specs cause elevated EGT's (exhaust gas temperatures) and raise underhood temps.....

Lawyers and the Gov dictated the original timing specs.......all the way into the 90's until cars lost the distributor...even after engine timing was computer controlled it is on the light side.......just about any car produced can be tuned for optimal timing and pickup power and efficiency......

I have tuned my wife's Equinox and my Silverado and the difference is very noticable.....

Jebby

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Old May 22, 2023 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
If the timing is at 4 degrees at idle....you are probably leaving about 75hp on the table when you drive.......
The L-71 has a relatively long overlap camshaft that wants a lot of initial timing......
You will not know for sure until you are done.....but if you set timing per Lars papers.....with the total at 36-38 degrees......your initial will be in the 15 degrees range.....not only that, you need to run the vacuum advance off of full manifold vacuum....this will help idle quality a lot too and keep underhood temps down during traffic. Retarded timing specs cause elevated EGT's (exhaust gas temperatures) and raise underhood temps.....

Lawyers and the Gov dictated the original timing specs.......all the way into the 90's until cars lost the distributor...even after engine timing was computer controlled it is on the light side.......just about any car produced can be tuned for optimal timing and pickup power and efficiency......

I have tuned my wife's Equinox and my Silverado and the difference is very noticable.....

Jebby
thank you Jebby....I knew I will get precious advise coming in this Forum.....but not at this level !!!
your recommandation for initial timing around 15° is for the cameshaft right....not for the distributor ?
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