Since I finally have tires, decent steering and brakes, it is time to replace the windshield. The couple test drives have been either 'tank commander' style peeking through a cracked and taped windshield or with my head up above the roof. To do that I had to get the driver's side door to open so the glass guys could remove the windshield trims.

What the windshield looked like.


Finally opened the driver's side door.

New glass!

 

I've been working on making the doors and electric windows work properly. The driver's side latch and window work like they should, and work has started on the passenger side. I'm waiting on a replacement latch. The original seems to have broken somehow when I was testing it after cleaning it.

My current problem is the electric locks. At first there was no response of any kind when operating a switch, so I replaced the actuators and switches. With the new switches installed, the associated fuse pops when trying the driver's side switch. I'm not sure what to look at. I checked continuity of matching color wires from one door to the other, and that seems good. What I think is odd is that there is continuity between the tan and grey wires at the actuator on the passenger side.

That doesn't seem right. Is there something else I should be looking at?
Thank you

 

Since it can now move, I've noticed the speedometer doesn't work. The needle jumps around. I've replaced the cruise control unit, it had failed internally, and pulled both cables. They have been lubed and reinstalled. I had the cluster out to clean and replace bulbs, when I noticed the socket in back of the speedometer is basically round. What should it look like? Should it be square like the cable end?

 

Good job saving here Mark. I am in the beginning stages of saving an 81 myself!

 

I replaced the Speedo cable on my 78. Both the cable and Speedo had a round connection. One slides into the other. I would think you’d would be the same.?

 

The needle on the speedo ion my 79 would bounce around. It turned. out that the worm gear in the speedo mechanism was worn. I was able to fix it with parts from a donated unit

 

I started cleaning and fixing the center console. That lead me to learn that the left channel on the stereo didn't work, so I decided to replace the radio and power antenna. The antenna seems secure and my test wiring works. The antenna wires sort of plugged into the original plug seem sketchy at best, so I plan to cut the wires that go into the relay leaving tails. The tails will be long enough to reconnect if someone wants to in the future, and the relay will be left in place.

Aftermarket power antenna installed.


Yellow wire is signal. Orange is power.


Current state of the center console.

 

Power antenna is hooked up, and it works as it should. I left the original relay and the connectors in place. Maybe someone will want the original parts in place some day.

Red to orange power, blue continues to the radio's signal wire, the thin black is the antenna extension wire.

 

I just read through your entire thread at the first time seeing it. Coming back from the dead, looks good.

I have since sold my 78, but have done some of the similar things you've done in the last couple years. Wiring wasn't something I had to wade into, thankfully.

Your power steering may already be completed by the time you read this, but if not, consider adding a rack and pinion kit. Steeroids was what I used and worked perfectly for years. The "kit" is handy, but not required as you can buy parts off the shelf, GM rack (Grand Am IIRC) and associated heimjoints and aluminum rod to make the linkage connections. https://www.speeddirect.com/shop

A steeroids spreader bar will add rigidity to the front end (laterally) and was quite noticeable in my car. Was a simple addition IMO. Perhaps look into this if/when you address the A arm bushings.

Things to also look at (in due time)
Seatbelt retractors and latches.
Belt anchors, rot in the belts etc
Windshield frame rot, behind the plastic trim surrounding the inside of the W/S.
Steering shaft rag joint
Differential maintenance
Half shaft/drive shaft U-joint replacement.
Diff "snubber" (rubber bushing),
rear control arms (adjustable)
Rear wheel bearings.
Seat back/seat bottom rot (bending) and adjustments (back latch especially)

Mine:




The day it was sold and picked up.

 

The center console is back together. All of the lights work, and a new stereo has been installed. It looks like it belongs. Unfortunately, the plastic is extremely fragile. The defrost switch broke when I was reassembling the console, and the passenger window switch snapped when I was testing it. I'm wondering how to fix that. JB weld? Epoxy? I'd like to be able to undo the screws in the future if needed.

Back together!