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Someone sells a remote starter button ($25) that has alligator clips. The clips go to the starters solenoid and by-passes the IGN key.
Then with IGN off, valve cover off, you can "bump" the remote button and set the lash easily. Bump-bump-bump, go right down the line of cylinders on one bank, then set the lash on the other bank. No more busted knuckles.
There is also a way of doing several valves at a time by using the position of the harmonic balancers marking.
You will need the schematic for that.
So what did you do to resolve the water temp sender thread issue?
I called summit racing, they said that the water temp sensor treads are tapered to tighten up as it goes in so I got a new sensor and went real slow putting it in so looks like it will work.
Someone sells a remote starter button ($25) that has alligator clips. The clips go to the starters solenoid and by-passes the IGN key.
Then with IGN off, valve cover off, you can "bump" the remote button and set the lash easily. Bump-bump-bump, go right down the line of cylinders on one bank, then set the lash on the other bank. No more busted knuckles.
There is also a way of doing several valves at a time by using the position of the harmonic balancers marking.
You will need the schematic for that.
I just got one from harbor freight. But I didn’t think I could use it with intake off.
Sure you can. I don't see the correlation. Its just a simple push button so you don't have to use the IGN switch when bumping the crank.
Actually, all the better to watch cam action when the Intake is off.
Valve-lash can be set at any time the pushrods are in. Regardless of Intake, Carb, Distributor, etc
Directions that came with the remote should show you which posts to clip to on the solenoid.
Keep the IGN key off.
Sure you can. I don't see the correlation. Its just a simple push button so you don't have to use the IGN switch when bumping the crank.
Actually, all the better to watch cam action when the Intake is off.
Valve-lash can be set at any time the pushrods are in. Regardless of Intake, Carb, Distributor, etc
Directions that came with the remote should show you which posts to clip to on the solenoid.
Keep the IGN key off.
can't you use the method of,
set engine TDC, do 8 valve lash
turn 1 full turn, set last 8 valves?
when I went back out to work on her I noticed someone had put a yellow mark on the harmonic balancer. I am guessing it means that’s TDC for number one cylinder. Each cylinder fires 90 degrees off from that. So if I set number one cylinder at TDC do the valve lash on that one then turn engine 90 degrees that should put number 8 cylinder at TDC. So each time I rotate the engine 90 degrees that’s should put the next cylinder in line to be at TDC. If I am thinking correctly.
yes there is a belt to the power steering unit. This not original engine so that’s how it was when I got the car.
I don't believe that belt arrangement is correct. Never seen W.P. to PS pump.
The PS pump should have a short belt all by itself from crank, from inner pulley grove.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Dec 26, 2023 at 05:28 PM.
I don't believe that belt arrangement is correct. Never seen W.P. to PS pump.
The PS pump should have a short belt all by itself from crank, from inner pulley grove.
yes it has its own small belt that wraps around W.P. To the power steering wheel on the pump. If I remember correctly when I ran the numbers on the engine it came back to mid 80s engine think it was in a c10 truck at some point.
when I went back out to work on her I noticed someone had put a yellow mark on the harmonic balancer. I am guessing it means that’s TDC for number one cylinder. Each cylinder fires 90 degrees off from that. So if I set number one cylinder at TDC do the valve lash on that one then turn engine 90 degrees that should put number 8 cylinder at TDC. So each time I rotate the engine 90 degrees that’s should put the next cylinder in line to be at TDC. If I am thinking correctly.
You are correct in this assumption and this is the way I lash valves. I will not do it any other way unless I am at the track working on an engine that has .800 lift.......
You can do it the Jalopy Journal way too....you can also set timing by ear and idle screws too.....you can also do it running which I am sure the Jalopy Journal has hundreds of threads exclaiming the benefits......I think Jalopy Journal has Coupons for Mr. Gasket Square Bore to Spread Bore adapters and Edelbrock 1406 carbs too.......
Or you can turn the crank 8 times and know 100% that you lashed it correctly in your mind......
I get argued on this about 5 times a year......but the TDC way is foolproof. When you get to #2...You. Are. Done. Period.
Also.....turn off the phone and lock the garage door while doing this......do not get distracted......in fact, anything like this...rod bolts, head bolts...etc.....eliminate distractions for 20 minutes and by happy later on.
Turn to zero lash and 1/2 turn preload after ward. This will plunge the lifter .020-.025" and that is all you need.....
Well heads are on, top of motor is back together one small problem.. #6 spark plug is actually sitting on the header. I can’t even get the boot on it. If it isn’t one thing it’s another. And oh yeah I am fighting to get the bottom radiator hose back on and it’s winning
Did the plugs in your oem heads go straight in or were they angled? (never mind I looked back and your old heads look to have straight plugs).
If you can’t get the clearance you need by denting the header tube, you may need to try a short plug or a new set of headers for straight plugs.
Are your headers long tube or are they short tube block huggers.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Jan 1, 2024 at 01:43 PM.
Did the plugs in your oem heads go straight in or were they angled? (never mind I looked back and your old heads look to have straight plugs).
If you can’t get the clearance you need by denting the header tube, you may need to try a short plug or a new set of headers for straight plugs.
Are your headers long tube or are they short tube block huggers.
I believe they are short tube headers. I thought when I was buying the new heads they were straight in plugs I did not see anything about these heads being angled. But I guess they are angled. Can you get shorter plugs for a sbc 350
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