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it’s a cable hooked to nothing tucked up on top of the transmission. It connects to what looks like the steering wheel.
The headers shown in these pictures are long tube headers and not short tube.
Looking at the older pictures in your thread, your old heads had straight plugs and so do the new ones.
I would go on Edelbrock’s website and see if they show the proper plugs for those heads and if it’s not on there website, I would call their customer service.
Are the headers new or were they the ones that were on the engine before the head swap.
Are the exhaust ports raised on those heads or are they standard port location.
On this last picture, the plug doesn’t look like it’s not installed properly, as stated above, these may be the wrong plugs.
The headers shown in these pictures are long tube headers and not short tube.
Looking at the older pictures in your thread, your old heads had straight plugs and so do the new ones.
I would go on Edelbrock’s website and see if they show the proper plugs for those heads and if it’s not on there website, I would call their customer service.
Are the headers new or were they the ones that were on the engine before the head swap.
Are the exhaust ports raised on those heads or are they standard port location.
On this last picture, the plug doesn’t look like it’s not installed properly, as stated above, these may be the wrong plugs.
the headers came on the car. I had just put those new plugs in the old heads and they worked fine. Wondering why now number 6 plug is on the header. The exhaust ports are not raised. Now I did notice that when I went to put the headers on there was two bolt holes on either side of the head other then just the one I used to put them on. Hopefully I didn’t miss align the one header on the head that will be the task for today
Aluminum heads require different plugs. The threads are longer at the minimum. Your instructions that came with the heads have a Champion plug listed but you could cross that over to an NGK or some other brand if you wish. You just can't use stock plugs anymore.
Aluminum heads require different plugs. The threads are longer at the minimum. Your instructions that came with the heads have a Champion plug listed but you could cross that over to an NGK or some other brand if you wish. You just can't use stock plugs anymore.
well hell, guess I should have read the fine print on the instructions. Lol
thanks
Just a quick note here on sparkplugs. As stated by stingr69, aluminum heads are a tad thicker at the sparkplug hole. Using a standard plug, the tip of the plug will be short of entering the chamber. The exposed threads of the head collect carbon deposits, the ignition flame from the plug is too far away for efficient burn. It's a lose-lose situation.
Good aluminum head companies will recommend a longer plug to extend into the chamber. Usually, NGKs meet the demand, but the proper heat range is up to the owner. Never buy a plug just because it clears the header. Proper "reach" first, then heat range, then total length when purchasing.
You are in a situation where a silicone sparkplug wire boot is mandatory. And here is where the different price ranges of plug wire sets show through. You can find sets for as little as $19.95. Or as much as $119.95. Get the good stuff. Something that can handle 1400 degrees. And even then, I recommend an insulating "sock" over the plug boot for extra protection.
The insulating socks come in sets of four, but in my opinion, are way too long and pricey. I cut mine in half to make 8. Perfect!
I have a picture of the socks I modified. Click on my avatar, look for photo album build.
Another note: When selecting code numbers for plug heat ranges, some companies are opposite of others. Numbers 7 - 9 maybe hotter to some, colder to another.
The headers shown in these pictures are long tube headers and not short tube.
...
None of the current photos clearly showed the collector, so I wasn't sure. Something like these, then, available at TopFlight and elsewhere? I'm surprised they don't provide more spark plug clearance. Hooker and Doug's sidepipes headers certainly do.
Just a quick note here on sparkplugs. As stated by stingr69, aluminum heads are a tad thicker at the sparkplug hole. Using a standard plug, the tip of the plug will be short of entering the chamber. The exposed threads of the head collect carbon deposits, the ignition flame from the plug is too far away for efficient burn. It's a lose-lose situation.
Good aluminum head companies will recommend a longer plug to extend into the chamber. Usually, NGKs meet the demand, but the proper heat range is up to the owner. Never buy a plug just because it clears the header. Proper "reach" first, then heat range, then total length when purchasing.
You are in a situation where a silicone sparkplug wire boot is mandatory. And here is where the different price ranges of plug wire sets show through. You can find sets for as little as $19.95. Or as much as $119.95. Get the good stuff. Something that can handle 1400 degrees. And even then, I recommend an insulating "sock" over the plug boot for extra protection.
The insulating socks come in sets of four, but in my opinion, are way too long and pricey. I cut mine in half to make 8. Perfect!
I have a picture of the socks I modified. Click on my avatar, look for photo album build.
Another note: When selecting code numbers for plug heat ranges, some companies are opposite of others. Numbers 7 - 9 maybe hotter to some, colder to another.
thanks for the great information. Now I am wondering if I should change to an HEI distributor or stay with the old point system
None of the current photos clearly showed the collector, so I wasn't sure. Something like these, then, available at TopFlight and elsewhere? I'm surprised they don't provide more spark plug clearance. Hooker and Doug's sidepipes headers certainly do.
If they are Hooker or Hedman headers you should plainly see their name plate welded to one of the primary tubes.
Once you get the correct plugs, if they still contacting the headers something is wrong.
They can be close, but should not be in contact with them.
You may need to dimple the primary tube to get proper clearance but they shouldn’t be that close, especially when you say there was plenty of clearance with the old heads.
Welcome to the world of hi performance.
Change one thing and you may end up changing other things as well.
If you are running the oem points and they are set up correctly, you probably won’t see any performance gains swapping to an HEI distributor.
Myself, I prefer HEI or MSD ignition set ups, but generally it’s personal preference and there are more arguments over which is best than the arguments about what is the best oil.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Jan 3, 2024 at 11:03 AM.
Yup unfortunately when you buy a c3 these days it like a box of chocolates you don’t know what you got till you open it.
it looks like the wrong front grill frames are different also
If they are Hooker or Hedman headers you should plainly see their name plate welded to one of the primary tubes.
Once you get the correct plugs, if they still contacting the headers something is wrong.
They can be close, but should not be in contact with them.
You may need to dimple the primary tube to get proper clearance but they shouldn’t be that close, especially when you say there was plenty of clearance with the old heads.
Welcome to the world of hi performance.
Change one thing and you may end up changing other things as well.
If you are running the oem points and they are set up correctly, you probably won’t see any performance gains swapping to an HEI distributor.
Myself, I prefer HEI or MSD ignition set ups, but generally it’s personal preference and there are more arguments over which is best than the arguments about what the the best oil.
there is no name plate on the headers so not sure which brand they are. Called summit racing they told me what plugs I need. So I went and got them. Took the other plugs out and started putting in the new plugs. Well everything was going great the plugs were clearing the headers but when I got to number 4 plug it stopped half way in. I mean it got so tight I didn’t want to go any further because I thought I would either break the plug or damage the threads. So now I have one plug I don’t know what to do with. Got so frustrated I had to walk away..
and now I find out the welder that is working on my frame says the rust is so bad a new frame would most likely be what I have to go.
so does anyone know of a place to get a frame. Not eBay i looked no frames. 😡
I take it that it's raining in GA? In fact, its pouring. When it rains it . . . . . .
There is a gentleman down in Texas that has a back 40 full of Vettes that he parts out. I assume in that dry state, the frames should be in fairly good condition. Of course, a frame would have to be loaded freight truck. His name is Corvette Ben and is seen on YouTube with helpful videos.
As for the plugs, shoot some PB Blaster around the threads. Try to remove the plug after soaking. Must be a spot of carbon or even aluminum on the threads.
Once you get the plug out, run a thread chaser (Harbor Freight) through there.
If you can wiggle a cell phone down to the hole and get a picture of the threads in the hole, that would be great.
If not buy a cheap bore scope or borrow one if you can.
Chase those thread very cautiously.
Thats one of nightmares every time I have to touch one of my aluminum heads.
Did you put the plugs in dry or did you use a little anti seize?
If you can wiggle a cell phone down to the hole and get a picture of the threads in the hole, that would be great.
If not buy a cheap bore scope or borrow one if you can.
Chase those thread very cautiously.
Thats one of nightmares every time I have to touch one of my aluminum heads.
Did you put the plugs in dry or did you use a little anti seize?
all the plugs but one didn’t work. They all went in nice and snuged up fine except for number 4 that one stopped half way in. I used anti size on all the plugs being there going in aluminum heads. My new fear is some how the treads got damaged although I don’t know how. I do have a bore scope I’ll try that next
