When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi
I m trying to restore a 1969 corvette L46 with out a original engine block , the intake and exhaust manifold looks original so is tranny and rear end, my question is do I will better go with a original engine block (HW)
from different car no matching vin , or is it better to fined a CE replacement block with correct date.what would be more correct or closer to a matching number car
thank you for your opinions
So by "better" do you want it to "look original"? Because it can never "be original"!
Maybe a picture of what you have now? There is a lot more hardware that screams "original" which you may or may not have. Smog pump, shielding....on and on. Being in Poland, that may be pretty hard to get if you don't already have it.
Hi
I m trying to restore a 1969 corvette L46 with out a original engine block , the intake and exhaust manifold looks original so is tranny and rear end, my question is do I will better go with a original engine block (HW)
from different car no matching vin , or is it better to fined a CE replacement block with correct date.what would be more correct or closer to a matching number car
thank you for your opinions
The correct engine code, HW. A CE with the correct date could be any 350 engine dated 69, 70, or 71. Finding one may be problematic.
hi
im trying to get to original as mach as passable I know not everything will be, but as mach as I can,i do spend my summers in Colorado so I have some time to look for parts.There are some CE engine block on eBay and other places ,I also fined some HW block on line, Tracy corvette have couple .I have now a engine from 1970 Chevelle (250HP)
this summer I will try to fined a first owner of the car and see what was the history of it , maybe I can fine a original engine ,maybe it is fixable if im lucky
my questions is witch way is more correct to restore ,judge in a car show . im planing to keep it for long time.
thanks
Bottom line. It was only original once.
And now it's not!
So, the heck with it! Do it your way!
At a car show. People like the bling! They like clean and tidy and shiny!
99 percent of people at a car show have no clue what is original or not!
Only a couple snobs might know or even care.
It's your car! It will never be original again no matter what you do.
So just make it your own! Do it your way.
yes you are wright but I will try to fined the original engine this summer, i may get lucky.on the other hand I would like to get close to original as mach as I can so my question is if you be the judge at car show what be the best option for best score and value of the car, HW with different vin or a period correct CE engine,
thanks
Just my 2 cents here but as long as you are trying not to fool anyone, just try to find a nice 010 350 block that has a casting date close to the build date of your car. Then just build it to the correct L46 specs. Do you still have the original heads?
no I don't , but I know what to look for ,for now I was concentrating on the block, heads are available on line ,for my car I need I-1-8 to I-20-8 dates with big valves
yes you are wright but I will try to fined the original engine this summer, i may get lucky.on the other hand I would like to get close to original as mach as I can so my question is if you be the judge at car show what be the best option for best score and value of the car, HW with different vin or a period correct CE engine,
thanks
I have been going to car shows for decades. Nobody at a car show ever looks to see if it's the correct VIN or engine code.
The only organization that does that is NCRS.
Are you saying in Europe they check the engine VIN and code at a show and shine car show?
no they don look for that at the car shows but for me I would like to be as mach as original gets ,that's why I would like your opinion what is next to original number matching car.if I can't fined the original engine I would like to know what is the next best thing
thanks
There is a specific order in judging and engine for NCRS. I have a basic understanding but there are sure to be others that will correct this if it is in error. These checks are done in specific order so once you have a failed check in the sequence, you go no farther in points.
The correct "casting number" engine block is the first check. There were 3 different casting numbers used in the '69 model year so it matters what date your car was built. Your early car probably needs a "386" casting number block. If you fail to get this right, you do not proceed to the next test and thats it.
The "casting date" is next and should preceed the build date of the car by no more than 6 months. Again, you must pass this to move on to the next check.
The stamping pad is judged next. You will not pass this so best to leave it alone as there are no more points to earn.
The heads need to be correct casting number "186" but are not judged for casting date code as far as I know.
I do have some rebuilt "186" big valve L-46 heads available, but they would be early '70 casting dates if it matters to you.
thank you ,that is the answer I was looking for. yes the correct block for my production date is 3932386 (early production)and heads 3927186..my corvette was born on Oct. 19 1968
please pm with info on your heads , if I can't fined the correct dates heads I may be interested in yours
thanks
Last edited by Bogdanator; May 21, 2025 at 10:36 AM.
thank you ,that is the answer I was looking for
please pm with info on your heads , if I can't fined the correct dates heads I may be interested in yours
thanks
The L-46 block had 4-bolt main bearing caps. So you need to look for a block from an L-46 engine or, more available, LT-1 engine which also had 4-bolt mains.
no I don't , but I know what to look for ,for now I was concentrating on the block, heads are available on line ,for my car I need I-1-8 to I-20-8 dates with big valves
I actual have original heads but I doubt they will match the build dates you want. Plus I wouldn't want to try shipping anything to Poland. Canada was enough trouble. Maybe Colorado. Plus I don't want to be paid in 'zloty'.
Here's my post on everything I took off of my early January L46.
The L-46 block had 4-bolt main bearing caps. So you need to look for a block from an L-46 engine or, more available, LT-1 engine which also had 4-bolt mains.
Even the Corvette base 350/300 had 4 bolt mains in '69.
2025 C3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Buy a brand new reliable, powerful, crate engine from a Chevy dealer, it's not original anymore, & it never will be, and won't command anymore money being "CLOSE". I personally wouldn't waste the time. If it was so important to be correct, i'm curious why you didn't just purchase one that was correct to begin with ?
no they don look for that at the car shows but for me I would like to be as mach as original gets ,that's why I would like your opinion what is next to original number matching car.if I can't fined the original engine I would like to know what is the next best thing
thanks
Just my opinion.... If your goal is to be as original as possible then the number on the block, weather its casting number or date, are not at all relevant since you dont have the original. I would build an engine that matches the specs of the original L46 as closely as you can. That way, the experience of driving the car would better resemble the original. I did this with a Boss 351 Mustang some 20+ years ago. The original engine was long gone so I built a 351 that was nearly identical to the original in spec.
that is exactly what im trying to do, and if I can still fined the original engine(did happen in past with a 73 barracuda I have)then it will be original car, but if not I would like to have a period correct ,spec. correct car I can enjoy driving
thanks for all your input ,