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Old Jan 5, 2026 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by zxryder72
Thanks, that should help to know what's in the dizzy!

Here's a thread with a link in there that supposedly includes troubleshooting steps for it. (I didn't read it.)

Breakerless Ignition - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
Thank you!
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Old Jan 5, 2026 | 04:12 PM
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Wouldn't a collapsed lifter or bent push rod tick like crazy? It wouldn't be apparent at speed and not also at idle.
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Old Jan 5, 2026 | 04:26 PM
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A little blurb on troubleshooting SE Breakerless ignition:


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Old Jan 5, 2026 | 07:52 PM
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Checked timing & 14 degrees. With it vaccum advanced unplugged.

plugged in it does work & advanced further as you rev it..

played with plug wires & all 8 getting good spark will jump to wire. (Wire & plugs new) Can tell when each drops at idle..... tried driving with one off & moving the off one to different jugs. All drives like **** still haha. Can't find the bad one..

My dad got starter rebuild today. Works like champ. So compression & pull valve covers next?
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Old Jan 5, 2026 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by barkingrats
Wouldn't a collapsed lifter or bent push rod tick like crazy? It wouldn't be apparent at speed and not also at idle.
It sure would. I suspect a worn camshaft lobe. But someone took the lash out of it to quiet it down. IDK. That's why I ask the OP to inspect the rocker arm nuts.

At idle the air reqs. can be met, whereas at speed, reduced valve opening (from a worn lobe) will limit Cyl. filling, hence reduced output.
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Old Jan 5, 2026 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mittens
Checked timing & 14 degrees. With it vaccum advanced unplugged.

plugged in it does work & advanced further as you rev it..

played with plug wires & all 8 getting good spark will jump to wire. (Wire & plugs new) Can tell when each drops at idle..... tried driving with one off & moving the off one to different jugs. All drives like **** still haha. Can't find the bad one..

My dad got starter rebuild today. Works like champ. So compression & pull valve covers next?
If you can't find the bad Cyl. and they all feel the same then go after the Dizzy.
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Old Jan 5, 2026 | 10:23 PM
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Video that explains SE Breakerless ignition that includes installation instructions so you can see how it goes together:

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Old Jan 6, 2026 | 08:59 AM
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Will pull valve covers next, take a look around and compression check now that starter works great. then will have good idea of a physical issue Cam / push rod, vs Distributor.
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Old Jan 6, 2026 | 10:02 AM
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Your distributor looks pretty rough and rusty. Have you taken the rotor off and inspected the weights and springs? That's easier to do than pulling valve covers so I'd do that first.

Also, you can check things out and make sure the SE Breakerless was installed correctly in the first place.
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Old Jan 6, 2026 | 10:05 AM
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I have pulled the Cap off but not the rotor. I will be inspecting it as well. Can look there before I waste a Valve cover gasket.
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Old Jan 6, 2026 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by zxryder72
Your distributor looks pretty rough and rusty. Have you taken the rotor off and inspected the weights and springs? That's easier to do than pulling valve covers so I'd do that first.

Also, you can check things out and make sure the SE Breakerless was installed correctly in the first place.
Originally Posted by mittens
I have pulled the Cap off but not the rotor. I will be inspecting it as well. Can look there before I waste a Valve cover gasket.
Someone else here or the C2 forum discovered that a magnet or two had fallen out of their ring, causing their miss and rough running.
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Old Jan 6, 2026 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by barkingrats
Someone else here or the C2 forum discovered that a magnet or two had fallen out of their ring, causing their miss and rough running.
This SE Breakerless thing doesn't have magnets like the Pertronix.
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 03:12 PM
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It seems Most of these sorts of points-to-electronic ignition conversions have magnets. The magnets themselves aren't a problem; But it's those "flying" magnet(s) that're trouble-prone.

A fixed-position magnet (& trigger coil) that either senses existing cam lobes OR has a shutter wheel (aka reluctor) are more reliable.
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Rebelyell
It seems Most of these sorts of points-to-electronic ignition conversions have magnets. The magnets themselves aren't a problem; But it's those "flying" magnet(s) that're trouble-prone.

A fixed-position magnet (& trigger coil) that either senses existing cam lobes OR has a shutter wheel (aka reluctor) are more reliable.
Another type sold once upon a time by Mallory used infrared sensor and plastic shutter wheel with eight slots. Currently Acel is marketing the system.
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
Another type sold once upon a time by Mallory used infrared sensor and plastic shutter wheel with eight slots. Currently Acel is marketing the system.
yup, Not magnetic at all.
I remember those too; UNILITE.
I recall they had a high failure rate and the local speed shop sold too many replacement photo-optic modules. Dunno why, but Lotsa failures.
Who'd a thunk it, but they remain in production; since Accel and Mallory exchanged wedding vows in the chapel of Holley. Ringbearer was MSD.
Never owned a UNILITE but have had many pre-chinesium Mallory & Accel distributors; no complaints w/ those.
Still have a NOS Echlin dual-point whose design was continued when Accel was spawned by Echlin's entry into hi-po ignition market.
Crane once had a line of photo-optic distributors and CD boxes; both were successfully run in Cup. Distributor was a nice piece.
Today, UK's McLaren does Cup's spec EFI + Ignition.
Perhaps Daytona Sensors took up Crane's CD Box biz when Crane was gutted ? And FAST took up Crane's XR-i conversion module biz.
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 09:32 PM
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Came home to my dad in my shop. He got a new cap & rotor. Can't hurt. So tried that. Same... but at least know that's new too.

then pulled valve covers. Video of them all moving what seems like good bit & opening valves to me. Then for the hell of it I checked rocker bolts.. some where loose.... off I go tightening down googling a torque spec.... all I have done is LS & LT stuff most my life Rockers get bolted / torques down.... these are not rollers rockers so after I did that got to thinking & then learned I was wrong... backed them all off... followed instruction with finger twist pushrods. Till stop spinning then 3/4 turn. Car runs zero noise, & all but still has miss. But seeing them all move good at least rules out horribly flat cam or dead lifter? Video Attached.

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IMG_3009.mov (8.70 MB, 7 views)
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Old Jan 7, 2026 | 09:37 PM
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Old Jan 8, 2026 | 10:48 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by mittens
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Watched both videos and the valves have good travel, so no worn camshaft lobes. That's a relief! Running out of ideas here. Try a Compression test. And/or; Have you tried putting a vacuum gauge on it? Look for a steady needle
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Old Jan 8, 2026 | 10:52 AM
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Compression test is next on my list. If I fond a dead jug/hole does this mean rebuild 100% or is it possible for a sitting engine to have a ring stuck and can come loose or something with a trick possible ha.

A buddy says maybe its running out of fuel.... but I rebuilt the carb, and the Float levels are non adjustable on this Holley 600. alos the studder/ miss does not feel like staving for fuel bog to me. but just a though to mention.

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Old Jan 8, 2026 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by mittens
Compression test is next on my list. If I fond a dead jug/hole does this mean rebuild 100% or is it possible for a sitting engine to have a ring stuck and can come loose or something with a trick possible ha.

A buddy says maybe its running out of fuel.... but I rebuilt the carb, and the Float levels are non adjustable on this Holley 600. alos the studder/ miss does not feel like staving for fuel bog to me. but just a though to mention.
Yes dead hole equals rebuild. A stuck ring will stick all the time not just off-idle. Since you mentioned the carb; are the secondaries functional?
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